3M Swirl Remover not working?

M

MansonOzz

New member
I have a few bad swirls on my car in a few spots, and got some 3M SR for dark colored cars. Mine is red.



I used it on my PC DA, and it doesn't seem to be doing much. Instructions say to use medium pressure, use light pressure as it starts drying, and then polish off. I do that and it seems the same.



Should I keep going over it for 20 minutes to see results?



I took pictures for comparison but with the lighting you can't even see the swirls I'm talking about. You can only see them when you're a few inches away frmo the paint, too, and I'm not sure if those are some that I have to just 'let go' and deal with or not in terms of how 'bad' they are. :nixweiss
 
SMR is a pretty week swirl remover. It's got some minor abrasives, and a lot of cleaners and fillers. I would go to something like Meguiar's DACP (#83) of 3M's equivalent for any significant swirl removal.



If your car is a daily driver, I would say, let it go. But if it's a garage queen, it might be worth your while to go after them.
 
Don't take my word for it ... as i am new, but i have read whatever i can get my hands on from this forum and from what i've read ... DACP is pretty close to some of the 3M fine cut compounds, or the Perfect It III Rubbing Compound is regards to abrasiveness. Correct me if wrong, but won't you have to finish up w/ something less abrasive after the DACP? i believe the same is true for the 3M ... follow up w/ something less abrasive, but don't use too much fire power if you don't have to. Stick w/ weak stuff and move up as needed.



I've found that Accumulator knows a lot of good information on 3M Perfect-It III Rubbing Compound and the like ... he's prob. your best bet for better answers! good luck man
 
Fine cut compounds like PI-III yes, but rubbing compounds, no.



Rubbing compounds would be equivalent to Meguiar's Diamond Cut cleaner, or maybe the Compound Power Cleaner. Those are all used for removing 1200 grit sanding marks. They remove a lot of clear when doing so. Not something you want to be doing just to remove swirls.



And I have never had to follow DACP with anything. My 3M SMR for dark cars has sat on the shelf ever since I got DACP. Some people have had to follow up with a finer cut cleaner, but the cause is not clear. It may be a combination of the paint and the pad they used, plus their technique. :nixweiss
 
Does it make a difference that I used a foam pad with the 3M Swirl?



Might a yellow pad do me better? Just trying to think of options.
 
Eh.... as much as I hate to disagree with you Gary, I'm pretty sure that the 3M Fine Cut (FCRC) is the next step up, and isn't as strong as those Megs products.



AFAIK, FCRC is about the same or slightly stronger than something like DACP and #2 Fine Cut, and the 3M product similar to Power Cleaner and Diamond Cut is something like 3M Super Duty Heavy Cut. Before DACP (and a multitude of other products these days...) came around 3M SMR and FCRC were two of the main products people were using to cover their bases.



I'd be inclined to try the FCRC with a polishing pad next.
 
Like 4DSC says, FCRC is probably on par with DACP. 3M has continually updated their product line to keep up with paint technology. The Finesse-It line has been around forever, and as most 3M reps will tell you, the newer Perfect-It polishes and compounds offer significantly better abrasives, etc. But many body shops are resistant to change, and just can't give up there beloved Finesse-It, so the product remains. The Perfect-It line has evolved as paint technology moved to harder and harder clear coats. Thus the Perfect-It III compounds will be slightly more aggressive than the earlier Perfect-It II and original Perfect-It conterparts. So in order of increasing aggressiveness, you have the following choices:

1) PI SMR (Dark & Light version identical except for product color)

2) PI-III MG

3) PI-II FCRC

4) PI-III RC

5) PI-III Extra Cut RC

6) Super Duty RC
 
MansonOzz- Yeah, get something stronger than the SMRs. Even with a more aggressive pad, you're trying to do something that it just won't do.



I've had good results with both the PI-II FCRC (39002) and the PI-III RC (05933). They're rather similar with regard to abrasiveness. Unlike Chrisd, *I* found that the PI-III (05933) seens a little *milder* than the PI-II (39002). Not saying that he's wrong/I'm right, just that they're that close so you can choose the one that YOU like best or the one that your supplier has in stock.



Both will leave an ALMOST ready-to-wax finish on most paints if you work them thoroughly. This gets into the individual case stuff- your paint, your techniques, etc. Just plan to follow up with something mild for a quick finishing touch. Well, something stronger than the SMR ;)
 
Thanks 3M experts, for setting the record straight. :bow As I said, I am not that familiar with the 3M stuff, just the Meguiar's line. I was just basing my comments on what the 3M website stated. This is a good reference for me, as I will likely try the 3M line some time in the near future.
 
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