3M FI-2 vs. PI-3 Machine Glaze -- questions

A

a6_avant

New member
Hi everyone I have been lurking this site and have gotten invaluable info for quite some time. Everyone is quite knowledgable here and have good constructive discussions.

My problem is a couple of bird dropping marks on a couple of month old black A6 Avant. My wife drives the car and I sometimes can't get the droppings off quick enough. I am seeing some halo effects after removing the droppings. I've tryed different products like 3m SMR and FI 2 by hand only. I do have a PC and am wondering if the FI 2 might do the trick or should I pick up some PI 3 machine glaze to use with the PC. I have seen many accolades for the PI 3 Machine glaze. I am also having trouble locating the PI 3 Machine glaze on the typical websites. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.



Thanks in Advance
 
Welcome a6_avant :wavey

My suggestion since you already have SMR and FI 2 on hand and haven't tried those products with the PC, to try that first. Depending on the pads you have, you may have to step up to the more aggressive pad.
 
Which pad do you think I should try and at what speed? I have all pads white,yellow,grey and lambs wool. I think I would be afraid to use the lambs wool though. That seems too agressive.
 
Least aggressive to start, white pad. Although, the white pad is pretty soft in relation to the yellow pad which is more aggressive. If after the first attempt at the 2'x2' area yields no results then bump up to the yellow. I'm advocating caution till you get used to the PC. Meaning proper speeds, length of time. Make sure you break the product down till it's pretty much gone. Then buff of any residue. Inspect the 2'x2' to see if the halo is gone.
 
a6_avant- Welcome to Autopia, nice to see another Audi fan here.



In MY experience (yes, that's a disclaimer ;) ) the FI-II is a LITTLE more aggressive than the PI-III, but the PI-III breaks down finer. If your bird bomb marks and/or the marring from their removal are as bad as I suspect, then either of those products will MAYBE be aggressive enough. I'd use the PC and your FI-II, if only to save time and to avoid the "pressure from one finger effect" that can happen with aggressive hand applications. In this case, I'd just start with the yellow pad and switch to the white one after you make a big improvement. Work the FI-II until it's almost gone. Then switch to a milder product and another white pad for the final polish if you need to. Audi's paints are pretty hard and they aren't too thin, which is both good and bad. Bad because you have to work to get the marring out. But the good news is that between your almost-new paint and the characteristics of Audi paint, you don't have to worry TOO much about being too aggressive. You'll quite possibly decide to live with SOME improvement (and some minor, remaining marring) and quit long before you take off too much clear (and that's NOT a criticism or smart-aleck remark, I've worked on quite a few Audis with all kinds of problems and I know what you're dealing with).



I got my PI-III from HERE It's a nice product, but honestly, it's not a miracle worker compared to what you already have. BUT, it's nice to have a SMR-type product with a little bite to it and NO fillers, so yeah, I'd get some. And get some Meg's Final Inspection to help remove polish residue.



I don't really get much marring from bird bombs or their removal on MY Audis, and I'd notice, even though they're silver. So once you do your best on the current marring, I STRONGLY suggest that you switch to a wax/sealant that is more resistant to such damage. Maybe Platinum or BFII. And use LOTS of QD (let the guano soak in the QD to soften it up) and your softest MF's (and/or cotton balls) when removing them. The less marring-the less polishing-the longer your paint will last.



Please post back if something's not clear or sounds questionable.
 
Here is more information on abrasive levels in order which was previously posted........



COMPOUNDS, POLISHES AND GLAZES SORTED BY CUTTING ABILITY



10 – MOST AGGRESSIVE - COMPOUNDS

3M SUPER DUTY RUBBING COMPOND HEAVY CUT 39004

MEGUIAR’S BODY SHOP PROFESSIONAL DIAMOND CUT COMPOUND 2.0 VERY HEAVY CUT #85



8

MEGUIAR’S BODY SHOP PROFESSIONAL COMPUND POWER CLEANER HEAVY CUT #84

3M PERFECT-IT III EXTRA CUT RUBBING COMPOUND 05936

MEGUAIR’S MIRROR GLAZE HEAVY CUT CLEANER #4



7

3M IMPERIAL MICRO FINISHING COMPOUND MEDIUM CUT 39001

MEGUIAR’S MIRROR GLAZE MEDIUM-CUT CLEANER #1

3M PERFECT-IT III RUBBING COMPOUND 05933



6

MEGUIAR’S BODY SHOP PROFESSIONAL DUAL ACTION CLEANER POLISH MEDIUM CUT #83



5

3M PERFECT-IT II RUBBING COMPOUND FINE CUT 39002

MEGUIAR’S MIRROR GLAZE FINE-CUT CLEANER #2

3M ONE STEP CLEANER WAX, MEDIUM OXIDATION REMOVER 39066

MENZERNA INTENSIVE POLISH

3M PERFECT-IT SWIRL MARK REMOVER DARK CARS 39009

3M PERFECT-IT SWIRL MARK REMOVER LIGHT CARS 39109

MEGUIAR’S MEDALLION PAINT CLEANER #97

MEGUIAR’S SCRATCH-X #108



4 - POLISHES

MEGUIAR’S BODY SCRUB A10

MEGUIAR’S DEEP CRYSTAL PAINT CLEANER #30

MEGUIER’S QUICK DETAILER #66

MEGUIER’S SPEED GLAZE #80

BLACK FIRE DEEP GLOSS POLISH



3

MEGUIAR’S BODY SHOP PROFESSIONAL SWIRL FREE POLISH LIGHT CUT #82

MEGUIAR’S MIRROR GLAZE SWIRL REMOVER #9

3M FINESSE-IT II MACHINE POLISH 39003

3M FINESSE-IT II FINISHING MATERIAL 05928

MENZERNA FINAL POLISH



2 - GLAZES

MEGUIAR’S BODY SHOP PROFESSIONAL HAND POLISH VERY LIGHT CUT #81

MEGUIAR’S MIRROR GLAZE MACHINE GLAZE #3

3M PERFECT-IT III TRIZACT MACHINE GLAZE 05930

3M PERFECT-IT III MACHINE GLAZE 05937

3M IMPERIAL MACHINE GLAZE 05991

3M ONE STEP CLEANER WAX, LIGHT OXIDATION REMOVER 39006



1

MEGUIAR’S MIRROR GLAZE SHOW CAR GLAZE #7

3M PERFECT-IT III FINISHING GLAZE 05941

3M IMPERIAL HAND GLAZE 39007

BLACKFIRE ALL FINISH PAINT PROTECTION



I hope this helps!!



Regards,

Deanski
 
Thanks for the replys. I do have some Final Inspection for glaze removal. I just need to be more patient and let the FI 2 break down more with the PC. I use Klasse AIO and SG. Then usually put some Blitz over that. After washes I try to use One Grand Show Off which I like as long as you are not too generous with it. Otherwise I noticed it will streak. I am just having fits with a black car in general. I just had an S4 that I got rid of which luckily was green. My new car coming is a blue evo which will hopefully be easier to deal with. Thanks you guys know your stuff.
 
One tip I've discovered when using Finesse-It: If the residue is difficult to remove, the polish needed to be broken down more. I almost gave up on FI-II until I figured out that patience was key, and that high speeds on the PC can be your friend.



Tort
 
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