2012 Legacy, From Minnesota, Needs a Car Wash

andrewferk

New member
Hello everyone!



I would like to quickly introduce myself. I am Andrew from Rochester, MN. Starting next week I will be working for the Rochester Public Schools as a Programmer/Analyst. Two weeks ago I crashed my 2003 Cadillac CTS. I took the insurance payout and put a down payment a new 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Limited.



I now have a dirty new 2012 Legacy. I have invested about $150 worth of buckets, grit guards, lambswool, microfiber, soap, detailer, etc.; however, this stuff will not be delivered until next week (or maybe the week after). I did not purchase ONR, but after looking more at the forums in Autopia, I will probably also be purchasing it, but again I won't have it for a week or two.



I would really like a clean car this weekend. In Rochester we have three car services: soft cloth auto wash, touchless auto wash, and self service car washes. Should I wait until I get my supplies (there is salt, sand, ice, etc. on the car right now), or should I wash it at one of these services? If I do use a local service to wash my car for just one week, which one should I choose? Would a simple rinse at a self service car wash be an option?



Thank you.
 
andrewferk said:
Would a simple rinse at a self service car wash be an option?



That's what I used to do when no other options were available to me in Rochesther (NY). I would use the spray car wash booth and that made me feel a bit better.



Will you leave this car outside all the time? Garaged? I would get a great sealant on the car ASAP. That would be my highest priority.



You've got to keep a close eye on ambient temp and figure out what your threshold is for washing and stuff freezing up on you.



Welcome aboard, Andrew !
 
Hi tom p., and thanks.



The car is parked in a garage (not heated) overnight, and sits in an open parking lot Mon-Friday for about 10 hours. It looks like Sunday it will be in the mid 30's, so I should be able to get a good rinse in; however, I have seen videos on youtube of people cleaning a car in 20 degree weather.



You mention getting a great sealant on the car ASAP. I did some research and found a difference between wax and sealant. Wax will last maybe 1 to 2 months, and sealant will last longer, maybe 5-12 months, depending on condition. I imagine applying wax and sealant should be done when your car is clean, and the correct temperature.



I was under the assumption that Subaru, and other car manufacturers, providing a rust warranty, would sell new cars with a good coating of paint, sealant, etc. Is this assumption wrong? Also, I read that you should not wax your car for a few months after applying paint, as you need to let gasses evaporate. Is this something I should look into (maybe when the car was manufactured)?



Thank you.
 
andrewferk said:
The car is parked in a garage (not heated) overnight, and sits in an open parking lot Mon-Friday for about 10 hours. It looks like Sunday it will be in the mid 30's, so I should be able to get a good rinse in; however, I have seen videos on youtube of people cleaning a car in 20 degree weather.



Yes, true. But you'll have your personal limits and you've got to contend with the car and driveway freezing up. My personal limit is right around 25F.





You mention getting a great sealant on the car ASAP. I did some research and found a difference between wax and sealant. Wax will last maybe 1 to 2 months, and sealant will last longer, maybe 5-12 months, depending on condition. I imagine applying wax and sealant should be done when your car is clean, and the correct temperature.



You do your homework! People will respect you for that :)



Yes, the better sealants will offer 6 months protection thru tough winters. There are some new generation products which I refer to as (semi) permanent solutions which will have a broad application.




I was under the assumption that Subaru, and other car manufacturers, providing a rust warranty, would sell new cars with a good coating of paint, sealant, etc. Is this assumption wrong? Also, I read that you should not wax your car for a few months after applying paint, as you need to let gasses evaporate. Is this something I should look into (maybe when the car was manufactured)?



Mfrs won't be applying paint sealants. However, you could regard the vehicle's clearcoat as a permanent layer of protection, tyically very good. However, these alternates we discuss would typically be applied twice a year and are sacrificial. They keep your new car looking its absolute best. This will be reduced down to your personal preference and how much time and concern you have for the car. There is no single "correct" repsonse.



Do you see yourself being able to wash the car in the garage with a product like Optimum, the rinseless product? That's a key decision. Also, can you heat the garage if needed?
 
I'd do the touchless or the DIY washes. The chemicals in the touchless washes are pretty harsh and will be tougher on the wax or sealant, but it is better than dirty brushes touching your car. Most also have the option for an 'underbody' rinse to wash the salt off of the undercarriage. I will bring my supplies to the DIY washes at an off peak time and do a good 2 bucket hand wash with a lot of attention to getting the salt off of the car with the high pressure rinse. DO NOT use the wand brushes at the DIY washes as people use them for ATV's, greasy engines, etc. I just go there for the high pressure rinse. Rinse really well, wash with my mitt, rinse again, dry.



Unless you can find someplace with a heated shop to wax/seal your new car, you may not be able to do much on that front until spring. :cry1:



Welcome to the site!

Randy
 
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