Hello all,
This is a paint correction I did on a 2011 BMW 328i in Black Sapphire Metallic. I love this color and the flake in the paint once you get it dialed in. This post will explain my procedure and all of the products used, as well as having loads of pictures. Some of these pictures will also be used in my reviews for individual products coming soon! Enjoy!
Step 1--Prep:
Now I used a ton of products on this car, so please forgive me if I forgot any.
Wheels and Tires:
-Optimum Power Clean 1:1 (Wheels)
-Shine Supply Solution APC 1:1 (Tires/ Undercarriage)
-3d Pink Car Soap (In my wheel bucket)
Paint:
-Meg`s Hyper Wash (In foam gun and wash bucket)
-3d Orange Degreaser (Added about 3oz to my foam gun to strip the wax)
-Meg`s Last Touch QD (Drying Aid)
-Shine Supply Throwback (Paint Cleanser/ Wax & Oil Remover)
Clay:
-Nanoskin Fine Block Sponge (Clay)
-Chemical Guys Clay Luber
I washed the car with the 2 bucket method and dried. Then I clayed the car. Followed this with a Throwback wipedown to remove any residue from the QD or any left over wax.
Stage 2--Polishing:
Following the wipedown with SS Throwback, I could accurately inspect the paint without any fillers or waxes on the surface. I used my Shadowhawk tactical flashlight that has a zoom feature to inspect the paint. Since this is my personal car, it looked pretty good. There were some RIDS and other scratches from people brushing up against the car in parking lots, etc. There was also some light hazing in some areas.
I did a test spot and found that this car needed just a light polish. I used my Rupes 21mm (original) with a 7inch Rupes White Ultrafine Pad. For the polish, I grabbed Shine Supply Classic Polish which has decent correction power and finishes down very well. I did three passes on speed 5 with firm pressure to correct the scratches and followed with one pass on speed 4 to jewel the paint and refine the finish. This process worked excellent on this paint for me.
I also primed the pad before use:
The polish is pretty oily which gives it a very long working time. It is not difficult to remove. It removes easily and cleanly. The label claims that it is dust free, however there is some dusting from the product but not much. I worked to polish with my above technique until it flashed.
Catching all those angles
:
Results from polishing one side of the car:
Stage 3--Protection:
For protection, I didn`t want to do a ceramic coating so I went with a traditional polymer and resin based sealant. I applied Shine Supply Daddy-O by hand with a soft applicator pad. The directions on the bottle state to let it cure for an hour, however I spoke with Jeremy (founder of SS) and found out that the new formula only required 20 min, but they still used the older labels on this particular bottle.
Curing:
The garage was pretty warm and humid (even though this was done at 1AM lol), so I let it sit for about 35 minutes before removal. Removal required some elbow grease, but wasn`t that difficult. I did have a problem with the product ghosting (due to the humidity during the curing process), but this was resolved with some waterless wash and a wipe down. I also applied the sealant to my clearcoated wheels which really made the silver paint pop.
(this is not a scuff it is a reflection of a box with plastic wrap around the top haha)
Final Results:
I came back the next day and went over the car with some Shine Supply Ride Shine (quick detail spray w/ carnauba). The tires/ wheel wells were dressed with Shine Supply Decked Out diluted 2:1 for a satin finish. The car has no wax on top of the sealant, however I do plan to top it with a paste wax next week.
Thank you for viewing. If you have any questions or feedback just let me know!
This is a paint correction I did on a 2011 BMW 328i in Black Sapphire Metallic. I love this color and the flake in the paint once you get it dialed in. This post will explain my procedure and all of the products used, as well as having loads of pictures. Some of these pictures will also be used in my reviews for individual products coming soon! Enjoy!
Step 1--Prep:
Now I used a ton of products on this car, so please forgive me if I forgot any.
Wheels and Tires:
-Optimum Power Clean 1:1 (Wheels)
-Shine Supply Solution APC 1:1 (Tires/ Undercarriage)
-3d Pink Car Soap (In my wheel bucket)
Paint:
-Meg`s Hyper Wash (In foam gun and wash bucket)
-3d Orange Degreaser (Added about 3oz to my foam gun to strip the wax)
-Meg`s Last Touch QD (Drying Aid)
-Shine Supply Throwback (Paint Cleanser/ Wax & Oil Remover)
Clay:
-Nanoskin Fine Block Sponge (Clay)
-Chemical Guys Clay Luber
I washed the car with the 2 bucket method and dried. Then I clayed the car. Followed this with a Throwback wipedown to remove any residue from the QD or any left over wax.
Stage 2--Polishing:
Following the wipedown with SS Throwback, I could accurately inspect the paint without any fillers or waxes on the surface. I used my Shadowhawk tactical flashlight that has a zoom feature to inspect the paint. Since this is my personal car, it looked pretty good. There were some RIDS and other scratches from people brushing up against the car in parking lots, etc. There was also some light hazing in some areas.
I did a test spot and found that this car needed just a light polish. I used my Rupes 21mm (original) with a 7inch Rupes White Ultrafine Pad. For the polish, I grabbed Shine Supply Classic Polish which has decent correction power and finishes down very well. I did three passes on speed 5 with firm pressure to correct the scratches and followed with one pass on speed 4 to jewel the paint and refine the finish. This process worked excellent on this paint for me.
I also primed the pad before use:
The polish is pretty oily which gives it a very long working time. It is not difficult to remove. It removes easily and cleanly. The label claims that it is dust free, however there is some dusting from the product but not much. I worked to polish with my above technique until it flashed.
Catching all those angles
:
Results from polishing one side of the car:
Stage 3--Protection:
For protection, I didn`t want to do a ceramic coating so I went with a traditional polymer and resin based sealant. I applied Shine Supply Daddy-O by hand with a soft applicator pad. The directions on the bottle state to let it cure for an hour, however I spoke with Jeremy (founder of SS) and found out that the new formula only required 20 min, but they still used the older labels on this particular bottle.
Curing:
The garage was pretty warm and humid (even though this was done at 1AM lol), so I let it sit for about 35 minutes before removal. Removal required some elbow grease, but wasn`t that difficult. I did have a problem with the product ghosting (due to the humidity during the curing process), but this was resolved with some waterless wash and a wipe down. I also applied the sealant to my clearcoated wheels which really made the silver paint pop.
(this is not a scuff it is a reflection of a box with plastic wrap around the top haha)
Final Results:
I came back the next day and went over the car with some Shine Supply Ride Shine (quick detail spray w/ carnauba). The tires/ wheel wells were dressed with Shine Supply Decked Out diluted 2:1 for a satin finish. The car has no wax on top of the sealant, however I do plan to top it with a paste wax next week.
Thank you for viewing. If you have any questions or feedback just let me know!
