1z products to use
- Thread starter RonTL
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
I find that Ultra works pretty well by hand, but it leaves more micromarring (or not so micro 
). Follow it with the PP, the MP is too mild to remove the UP's micromarring.
The UP oughta remove all the marring, it's pretty aggressive. You might try applying it with that buffer and a terry bonnet, but that will be an aggressive application. Otherwise, I'd use foam. But sure, try the buffer as opposed to doing it by hand. You can always do the tight spots by hand, and/or a final pass on the whole vehicle if it needs it.
Work the 1Z polishes long enough to break down the abrasives (especially with the UP), but don't work them until they turn to powder or disappear.
Buff the 1z polishes off with either a MF (first choice) or a *VERY* soft 100% cotton towel. Be careful that you don't induce more marring during this step.
). Follow it with the PP, the MP is too mild to remove the UP's micromarring.The UP oughta remove all the marring, it's pretty aggressive. You might try applying it with that buffer and a terry bonnet, but that will be an aggressive application. Otherwise, I'd use foam. But sure, try the buffer as opposed to doing it by hand. You can always do the tight spots by hand, and/or a final pass on the whole vehicle if it needs it.
Work the 1Z polishes long enough to break down the abrasives (especially with the UP), but don't work them until they turn to powder or disappear.
Buff the 1z polishes off with either a MF (first choice) or a *VERY* soft 100% cotton towel. Be careful that you don't induce more marring during this step.
Bill D
Hooked For Life
I can attest that the Ultra can be highly effective. I used an extremely aggressive combination yesterday with one of my practice fenders and rotary.
I used Ultra and a small wool pad with the rotary to try to smooth out a deep scratch,kind you you can kinda feel with your fingernail but not into the primer.
After a few minutes, the Ultra,wool pad,rotary combo made the paint incredibly smooth and filed down the scratch nicely, still visible,not quite as deep feeling. The paint in the area was of course heavily micromarred in the spot but a lighter polish with polish pad got rid of it.
I suppose that scratch could go another round with the Ultra or even some brief wet sanding followed by polishing but it's just a practice fender and I had already been polishing for over an hour at the time.
Just wanted to share that indeed I saw how handy a polish Ultra can be :up
I used Ultra and a small wool pad with the rotary to try to smooth out a deep scratch,kind you you can kinda feel with your fingernail but not into the primer.
After a few minutes, the Ultra,wool pad,rotary combo made the paint incredibly smooth and filed down the scratch nicely, still visible,not quite as deep feeling. The paint in the area was of course heavily micromarred in the spot but a lighter polish with polish pad got rid of it.
I suppose that scratch could go another round with the Ultra or even some brief wet sanding followed by polishing but it's just a practice fender and I had already been polishing for over an hour at the time.
Just wanted to share that indeed I saw how handy a polish Ultra can be :up
I've only read about machine application of the UltraPolish as i don't have a PC ... but i have found that by hand, the Ultra does more to revive the paint and remove oxidation than swirl removal. Its aggressive stuff, but i still find a pass, maybe two of PP to do a great deal to help with swirls and even some scratches
i don't doubt its abilities when used with a machine, but by hand, its never seemed that abrasive to me (in a swirl removal kind of way)
alex
i don't doubt its abilities when used with a machine, but by hand, its never seemed that abrasive to me (in a swirl removal kind of way)
alex
Accumulator
Well-known member
Volvolove- I'm kinda 
about your last post. Are you saying that 1Z's UP is less aggressive for you than their PP when both are used by hand? The UP is more abrasive than the PP, and I can even remove marring from Audi clear with it (UP, by hand). I use it to remove nasty fingernail-scratches from behind door handles-it gets the scratches out, but leaves (not so-)micromarring that I have to use finer polishes to remove. It's a lot more abrasive than some of my 3M RCs.
This isn't just an "IMO it's more abrasive", it's well documented (you can check with 1Z). Maybe what's happening is that the additional oils/waxes/etc. in the PP *hide* your marring better than those in the UP. UP isn't quite "liquid sandpaper", but it's pretty abrasive stuff....
Hope this didn't sound like a flame, I'm just, well,
about your last post. Are you saying that 1Z's UP is less aggressive for you than their PP when both are used by hand? The UP is more abrasive than the PP, and I can even remove marring from Audi clear with it (UP, by hand). I use it to remove nasty fingernail-scratches from behind door handles-it gets the scratches out, but leaves (not so-)micromarring that I have to use finer polishes to remove. It's a lot more abrasive than some of my 3M RCs. This isn't just an "IMO it's more abrasive", it's well documented (you can check with 1Z). Maybe what's happening is that the additional oils/waxes/etc. in the PP *hide* your marring better than those in the UP. UP isn't quite "liquid sandpaper", but it's pretty abrasive stuff....
Hope this didn't sound like a flame, I'm just, well,
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Accumulator said:
Accumulator,
Maybe you should consider those clear ( 3m Scotchcal or just plain static cling) door handle cup protectors.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Bill- I was referring to my friend's A6 4.2, not our cars.
Heh heh, if Accumulatorette and I start marring behind the handles it'll be time for a serious re-evaluation of our fitness to operate such machinery! We were discussing this recently- how we both are always deliberately conscious/conscientious about *not* doing such things every time we open a car door. I nearly freaked the last time a doorman opened her door for her, but he was wearing gloves
Those *are* good things for normal people with original paint though.
Heh heh, if Accumulatorette and I start marring behind the handles it'll be time for a serious re-evaluation of our fitness to operate such machinery! We were discussing this recently- how we both are always deliberately conscious/conscientious about *not* doing such things every time we open a car door. I nearly freaked the last time a doorman opened her door for her, but he was wearing gloves
Those *are* good things for normal people with original paint though.
accumulator: sorry for the confusion, i was just mixing thoughts in my mind. i had your post here: Wet Sanding
i was just recalling the info about how removing marring/scratching using the Ultra might not necessarily be its intended use as you more eloquently stated. I always try to think of hand applications as a lesser playing field when it comes to results.
when i am going for swirl-removal, i tend to think Paint Polish first ... maybe even two passes
my brain just thinks of ultra as a reviving compound to get deep down.
My personal results on my 12 year old BMW told me that the Ultra did more for reviving the paint's color than getting rid of its flaws. I've never dealt with the fabled rock hard audi clear and can't compare w/ your experiences and what the UP does for it.
Your most likely right in saying that the PP seems better to my eye because of the smooth finish it leaves.
I don't doubt the Ultra's strong abrasiveness, i just noticed that the PP seemed more at home as a swirl removal tool ... and the Ultra as a first step product for restoring a car w/ some damaged paint. I do agree it is more abrasive, but found it catered more to neglected, oxidized finishes, rather than just scratched ones
sry for the confusion ~~
alex
i was just recalling the info about how removing marring/scratching using the Ultra might not necessarily be its intended use as you more eloquently stated. I always try to think of hand applications as a lesser playing field when it comes to results.
when i am going for swirl-removal, i tend to think Paint Polish first ... maybe even two passes
my brain just thinks of ultra as a reviving compound to get deep down.
My personal results on my 12 year old BMW told me that the Ultra did more for reviving the paint's color than getting rid of its flaws. I've never dealt with the fabled rock hard audi clear and can't compare w/ your experiences and what the UP does for it.
Your most likely right in saying that the PP seems better to my eye because of the smooth finish it leaves.
I don't doubt the Ultra's strong abrasiveness, i just noticed that the PP seemed more at home as a swirl removal tool ... and the Ultra as a first step product for restoring a car w/ some damaged paint. I do agree it is more abrasive, but found it catered more to neglected, oxidized finishes, rather than just scratched ones
sry for the confusion ~~
alex
Accumulator
Well-known member
Volvolove- OK, thanks for clarifying that for me. I'm no longer . And I agree that a few passes with PP is better than just jumping right to the UP. If you look back a ways, I think we're sorta using UP outside the box when we use it to remove (serious) marring from b/c paint. It's not that it doesn't work, but that's not what 1Z really had in mind when they developed it (at least as I recall). It's more for what you mentioned, paint that's severely *oxidized* :xyxthumbs
. And I agree that a few passes with PP is better than just jumping right to the UP. If you look back a ways, I think we're sorta using UP outside the box when we use it to remove (serious) marring from b/c paint. It's not that it doesn't work, but that's not what 1Z really had in mind when they developed it (at least as I recall). It's more for what you mentioned, paint that's severely *oxidized* :xyxthumbsVegasShawn
New member
I tried out UP on my Barcelona Red Peral96 Eclipse the other day in an effort to remove some minor scratches that were on it. It didn't remove any scratches, but it did shine up the paint very very well.
I got the Eclipse about three weeks ago and have been trying out different products / techniques to bring the paint back. When I got it, it was FULL of swirls and minor scratches from what looks like the brushes at the DIY wash.
What I first did was use PP with a white pad. That got rid of all of the swirl marks very very well. It did nothing for the scratches. The paint looked pretty good and a lot of the glossiness was returned. I still wasn't happy with the scratches.
I then tried UP with an orange pad on 1/3 of my hood. It might have gotten rid of some of the very minor scratches, but I did notice that the paint was a much darker shade of red than it was before. It was easily apparent to the eye and even my wife noticed the big stripe on the hood where I had tried the UP / orange pad.
I think I have found my method for making the paint look good. I am going to try the PP with the orange pad. I think I will get the same results as the UP since the UP isn't removing the scratches anyways.
I got the Eclipse about three weeks ago and have been trying out different products / techniques to bring the paint back. When I got it, it was FULL of swirls and minor scratches from what looks like the brushes at the DIY wash.
What I first did was use PP with a white pad. That got rid of all of the swirl marks very very well. It did nothing for the scratches. The paint looked pretty good and a lot of the glossiness was returned. I still wasn't happy with the scratches.
I then tried UP with an orange pad on 1/3 of my hood. It might have gotten rid of some of the very minor scratches, but I did notice that the paint was a much darker shade of red than it was before. It was easily apparent to the eye and even my wife noticed the big stripe on the hood where I had tried the UP / orange pad.
I think I have found my method for making the paint look good. I am going to try the PP with the orange pad. I think I will get the same results as the UP since the UP isn't removing the scratches anyways.