1987 Camaro Fix *pics*

G

greenmachine03

New member
Alright guys, I'm new here and have done some reading (and I will continue to search around for answers)... But I have a 1987 Z28 with a Base Coat Clear Coat paint job. The paint on the car seems all original.

For some reason or other the hood, upper fender flares, and upper part of the bumper have some fading/swirling to them.

I have been told it could be fixed with compound and buffing. I have also been told that it looks like single stage paint and I was told to do a two step on it.

Does anyone have a suggestion on what I could do to fix it? Is it even possible to fix? (I am pretty good with working with my hands/paint/fabrication stuff but..) Who should I go to for a fix if it is out of my amateur abilities?

I am willing to put the work in if someone can tell me the right way to do it. I have been told by an old hotrodder friend of mine that it looks like clear coat residue that is milky and a clearcoat safe compound and two different buffing wheels will work.

Here is the hood picture
IMG_0261.jpg
 
I would say for you to use Meguiar's Ultra Cut Compound M105 with a few Orange Flat pads and go at it. You will find that the dead paint on the surface with come off and your pads with clog up fast ( so have many and clean them also ), follow up with Meguiar's Ultra Fine Polish M205 and with a White pad then follow up with a Black one. As far as I remember some of them back then were single stage paint. No one will not know how much paint is on there without some type of paint gauge reading on those panels you have. Let us know how it turns out.
 
zoomzoom mazda5 said:
I would say for you to use Meguiar's Ultra Cut Compound M105 with a few Orange Flat pads and go at it. You will find that the dead paint on the surface with come off and your pads with clog up fast ( so have many and clean them also ), follow up with Meguiar's Ultra Fine Polish M205 and with a White pad then follow up with a Black one. As far as I remember some of them back then were single stage paint. No one will not know how much paint is on there without some type of paint gauge reading on those panels you have. Let us know how it turns out.
Click to expand...

Sounds pretty close to what I've researched...

Anybody else got a different method? I might just try this.
 
Where are you at in Dayton. I wouldn't mind taking a look at what you are trying to do. You can PM me with info. Have a little experience with older paint.:)
 
i have a 71 vette and it has single stage paint on it. i'd be surprised if thats color clear coat on yours and it be original paint. but good luck cleaning it up no matter
 
It could be single stage paint OR it could be base coat/ clear coat. Clear coats, particularly older clear coats, are prone to oxidation and the end result is very similar looking.

Whatever the paint system, that is is pretty severe oxidation.

First, if you are to do this yourself, you need a polisher. Since you don't have much experience polishing paint, I would start with a Porter Cable 7424 XP Dual-Action polisher. It is extremely user friendly an relativity safe. This is because of it's Random Orbit design.

Porter Cable 7424 XP Dual Action Car Polisher Auto Buffer

You will also need a backing plate to mount the pads to the machine. This backing plate will work with my further recommendations.

Dual Action Flexible 5 inch Backing Plate


You will need pads. I personally don't recommend wool pads on Random Orbital style polishers, but in this case they will help you. As Angelo mentioned in his post, oxidized paint (dead paint) will come off quickly and it will clog the pad. Using a wool pad will over more 'surface' area to trap the dead paint.

Lambswool Leveling Pad, 6 Inches


For a polish to use with the wool pad (step 1) I would recommend Menzerna IP2000. This is an older polish (which still uses modern abrasives). The benefit of this polish is that it is a drier polish that will dust slightly as you use it. Normally users want to avoid dust, but in your case the dusting will have benefit as it will act to clean the pad as you work it.

Menzerna PO91E Intensive Polish (IP 2000)


Work the wool pad/Menzerna IP2000 in small sections at a time, about 2 ft x 2 ft. Apply a thin stip of polish across the pad, then place the machine on the paint. Set the machine to speed 4 and lightly buff over the 2 x 2 section to coat it with a fine film of fresh product.

Then increase the speed to 5, and work in slow, over lapping passes, applying firm pressure. The Porter Cable Polisher features a free wheeling (spinning) pad, apply enough pressure that the rotation slows, but does not stop. Continue to work over the 2 x 2 area until the polish starts to dust slightly. Then shut the machine off and and wipe the area clean with a microfiber towel. The gloss should be restored. Some bad areas may require several applications.

After each section, brush the pad out with a nylon pad brush.

Meguiars Professional Pad Conditioning Brush


After you are done with this step you would benefit from a second, finer polish/pad step in order to maximize the shine of the paint.

Switch to Menzerna SF4000. This is a fine polish that will add more gloss to the polished paint.

Menzerna PO106FA Super Finish A high gloss finishing solution


Use this with a Lake Country Hydro-Tech Tangerine pad. This pad will have enough polish power to remove any haze from the previous step while being fine enough to gloss the paint of the Camaro.

5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Hydro-Tech Tangerine Ultra Polishing Foam Pad


Work this combo the same as the previous, a section at a time, until it looks new.

 
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