06 white tundra no clearcoat- Care suggestions?

P

payneja

New member
Hello,



I have been a lurker for a about a week now and have found alot of great information (thanks!!!)



I recently purchased an 06 White Tundra double cab and through another site found out that it is not clearcoated (dealer confirmed). Now for my question:



Is there anything special I need to know about caring for a single stage paint job? I have read alot of posts about clay/polish/wax, but a majority seem to be geared towards cars with CC's.



Product suggestion and technique would be greatly appreciated.



PS: I recently inherited some griot products: speed shine, best of show, paint sealent, spray on wax, MF's. Since I did not pay for it I do not mind buying other products based on recommendations.



Thanks in advance.



Jason
 
Single stage seems to polish up relatively easy. My mother has a black Lexus LX470 that is single stage. I dont treat it any differently than any other black car (or any car) I work on. I'd say just go with what you got until it's gone and then order up some other stuff. Might want to look at getting a light polish to remove any swirls...I know the car is white, but I can spot swirls on my white car (I've been around Autopia for a while now. :D)



HTH,
 
payneja- Welcome to Autopia!



Single stage white is usually about as hard as automotive paint gets, almost always harder than any b/c (I've had a few ss white vehicles so I know this from first-hand experience). It's actually the other end of the spectrum from ss *black*, which is usually the *softest* of all automotive paints (had a *bunch* of ss black cars, and as Way2SSlow noted, it's easy to correct that). It's a matter of the stuff used in the white/black pigments. There are exceptions (and I dont know from what they used on the Tundra), but I'd approach it as likely to be *very* difficult to correct.



So..the big trick here IMO is to avoid marring it in the first place as getting that marring out could be very tricky. Mike Phillips often says "live with it" when it comes to marred white ss, and Mike doesn't mind a challenge.



Not sure which polishes I'd use if it did need correction. Assuming it doesn't (might be a big assumption, but it *is* new), I'd probably just use something with cleaning ability like AIO/VM/etc. basing my choice on what LSP I planned to use (sealant vs. carnauba).



Nothing wrong with the Griot's products mentioned, though I don't care for the BOS. I'd use whichever seems appealing and concentrate on getting the wash regimen all scienced out so you don't get any marring from that.



I *would* either clay it, or, preferably, use a decontamination system like ABC. Ferrous contamination (e.g., "rail dust") will corrode and cause "rust blooms" with are pretty unsightly on white. I'm not a fan of Griot's clay, I'd get the gray Sonus stuff (and the Glyde lube) for this one.
 
thank you guys for the info!



I ordered some 1Z PP and collinite 845 (based on recommendations from other posts). Can I apply this by hand and PC? How long will this combo last before I have to reapply? I also ordered some of the sonus clay and glyde lube.



Thanks again.



Jason
 
cj99si- Seems to be a Japanese thing, this single stage trend. I wouldn't mind as long as they apply it nice and thick. Being an old-school guy with cars that still have the OE ss paint, I appreciate high-quality ss as much as I detest *cheap crappy* ss. From Mazda on some of the Miatas to Lexus, ss shows up in some pretty surprising places. The problem is when they spray it super thin and blend it really soft- not the best combo for long life, especially if you polish it a lot. At least payneja has a presumably hard one on his Tundra.



payneja- Yeah, that stuff works fine by hand or PC, both the polish and the wax.



Work the Paint Polish until it breaks down but not until it dries. If it dries the rest of the way after you work it (but before you buff it off) it's not as big a deal as with other polishes as it's basically like a cleaner-wax once the abrasives break down. Try to not use an excessive amount of polish. If you apply by PC use a polishing pad and a speed of *at least* 4.5 (and higher is better IMO).



The 845 is funny, it lasts for a *long* time (months) for some people and for only a few weeks for others. I'd just plan to reapply it when the beading changes in a significant way and I can't predict just how long that'll be. Be sure to let it dry completely before you buff it off and don't put it on really thick (that just wastes product and effort). It can be a pain to shake up, so consider stirring it with a long thin (clean) screwdriver. If you apply by PC, use a finishing pad and a speed of 4-4.5.



I'd really like to hear back about how you like these products and how long the 845 lasts for you.
 
Accumulator & way2sslow,



Thank you for taking the time to answer my posts, I really appreciate it! The information from fellow board members here is invaluable and has most definitely shortened my learning curve.



I am planning on ordering the PC and pads tonight. The rest of the goods are on the way. I have a day off on Monday and plan on going to town.



I will definitely report back.



Jason
 
The main thing with single stage paint is to keep it polished and waxed. Once you let it start oxidizing, your nightmare begins.



Wax at least every 3 months, light polish or glaze every other time.
 
do you have any light polish or glaze recommendation for my combo and car.



I also purchased a pc yesterday, do you have any pad recommendations for the products that i am using and my vehicle. I have read alot of threads on pad recommendations: sonus, wolfgang (same as LC I assume), edge, propel. It is enough to make your head spin



thanks
 
I would think they're reasoning for using SS white is the same as SS black ..



It will probably become a trend pretty soon
 
Five Star said:
I would think they're reasoning for using SS white is the same as SS black ..
Click to expand...



But what *is* that reasoning :confused: I doubt it's economic, having production set up for all-b/c would seem much more efficient and efficiency usually works out best.



I dunno...I really like the look of ss on some colors but I'd think most people are better off with b/c.



payneja- I dunno, I'm kinda behind the times when it comes to pads and product (I jus use what's always worked for me). I use LC and Meguiar's pads and 1Z and (discontinued) 3M polishes. Meg's #80 is good, that's an OK general purpose polish unless you're putting a non-Meg's sealant on top of it. The Meg's "pure polishes" (#3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal #2) are OK glazes for use under a Meg's LSP or a carnauba.
 
Accumulator said:
But what *is* that reasoning :confused: I doubt it's economic, having production set up for all-b/c would seem much more efficient and efficiency usually works out best.



I dunno...I really like the look of ss on some colors but I'd think most people are better off with b/c.



payneja- I dunno, I'm kinda behind the times when it comes to pads and product (I jus use what's always worked for me). I use LC and Meguiar's pads and 1Z and (discontinued) 3M polishes. Meg's #80 is good, that's an OK general purpose polish unless you're putting a non-Meg's sealant on top of it. The Meg's "pure polishes" (#3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal #2) are OK glazes for use under a Meg's LSP or a carnauba.
Click to expand...





I would guess the reasoning is SS paint reduces the gloss produced by applying a clear coat, adding more depth and wetness to the finish.





I guess the best thing to do is park an 06 next to an 05 and we would all know for sure :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top