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I keep reading about rattle can paint jobs and am curious how it would come out, so I'm trying on a piece of scrap (no, I have no intention of painting any car like this, I'm just curious) So I wetsanded the metal with 320 nice and smooth, then sprayed primer. let dry, wetsand, more primer...

If you use a pressure washer to pre-rinse, foam, and then re-rinse, at that point is there any point in using ONR versus the traditional method? For example, will it grab whatever dirt is left behind gentler than the normal method can wipe it off?

I was itching to use my gloss-it products on my z06 - previously, it really laughed at my attempts at correction. I mean, the results were good (like 85% autopean standards), but always left me frustrated that I'd spent 7hrs on it and it wouldn't be perfect. But wow, the gloss-it products...

Do you have/work on any cars you wish you'd never laid eyes on. For me - black 03 g35 coupe - the paint swirls almost by looking at it, and I can never seem to dry it properly. No matter how hard I try or how fast I move, whenever I wash it i'm left with water streaking/spotting/staining all...

Can you safely clean Lexan MR10 with windex (no amonia/phosphates)? I searched and found 1 data sheet that did not list windex on it; another data sheet did, but it said windex w/ ammonia (the ammonia is just for cleaning, not resisting marring or anything, is it?))

Is the overall technique any different than wetsanding clear?

Does foaming (foam lance on a pressure washer) actually help to loosen the dirt before beginning the mitt washing regime. I'm 50/50 on it .... obviously it doesn't remove the dirt, but I have no real idea if it's actually loosening it or if I"m just wasting my time with it.

Got my gloss it today. Here's my mini review. + Dusts less than SIP and 106; also find it has better working time and correction (I got more out of 1 pass with it than I normally do on SIP with my test panel) - For some reason only shipping option to Canada is express (and not ground)...

(%s based on autopean standards of course =) ) Is it possible to make black look 100% corrected under a sungun and brinkman? I've spent the last 20hrs on my black g35 (winter beater - shitload of salt and slush and rocks pound it, and I don't bother washing it for 6mths in the winter, so...

If you were going to use one after SIP, which would it be? I've tried both (on a cyclo) and for the life of me I can't see any differences - they both seem to leave the surface (black) in the same condition and LSP ready.

Just as a foreward, I've been using my cyclo fairly successfully for the last 2yrs; it will do, for example, a 95% correction on my Z06 clear. I figured I'd buy a Flex to see if it has some extra oomph. It definately has more power than the lil' cyclo; I was able to remove a few marks that...

I've got a few marks in the clearcoat here and there that I can't get out using a cyclo with orange pads, moderate pressure, and Menzerna Power Gloss (or SIP, PG is the strongest I have that works well with the cyclo...never had much luck with 1z IP, or 105 on it). Consequently, I'm wondering...

When debating which to buy, I really didn't find any simple comparissons of the two. Lots of arguments and whatnot, but nothing really helpful. Anyways, I bought both and from a very simple viewpoint here's my thoughts: Sun gun - Good for finding holograms and color matching. Not so good...

When buying a pressure washer (For automotive cleaning), what do you typically look at/want from it? I've been thinking of buying an electric one (I know, electric isn't as good as gas, but this one gets good reviews for longevity, plus I'm not trying to etch concrete with it, heh), but no...

Every so often I test out new products and techniques on test panels (scrap bumpres, hoods, etc...) Anyways, I pulled out this bumper (black, unknown make/model) and all sorts of weird **** has been happening. On the first half of it, I was wetsanding with 3000. I made, maybe 4 or 5...

Decided to detail my 16yr old John Deere Tractor; big mistake. i figured 1-2hrs....turned into 12-15hrs. Apparently 16yr old paint that has hit - fences - houses - barns - cows - flipped twice really doesn't want to be corrected. I'd say I did a 70% job based on Autopean standards...

I decided to detail my John Deere GT275 and really feel like I've hit a wall. The tractor is 16yrs old, been through 4 owners, NEVER been washed once, smashed into multiple trees, a barn, a cow, a house, several fences, as well as flipped once or twice in the ditch. I've tossed...

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Is it possible to clay an entire car without making any scratches/marring/marks in the clearcoat? Doesn't seem to matter my lube, technique, etc...., if I claybar I've got to polish it afterwards. :nixweiss

For an initial polish with something 'strong' (e.g., Menzerna PG or SIP), do you just let the pad do the work, or do you apply a lot of pressure to the machine to help it cut? I've always just let the pads do all the work, but I'm wondering when it's appropriate to really crank down on it?