PB LSP Prep and Use

P

PFix

New member
I am getting ready to start my winter protection LSP application. I will be applying EX-P topped with Natty's Red to my 2011 Black Volvo C30 R. The paint is in great shape, it has been garaged since new and carefully washed and waxed.
My plan is to wash with CG wash and clear mixed to wax stripping dilution rates. Clay with ONR used for the clay lube,Ex-P application, wait 12 hours or more and then apply the Natty's Red in several coats.

My wondering is if I should do an IPA wipe down after claying or after washing to ensure I have a clean surface, or in your experience will the wash work effectively for this? No sealer has been applied to the paint, only wax., (AutoGlym HD)

How beneficial would it be to apply 2 coats of EX-P before topping with the Natty's?

I also have Black Hole Glaze, any opinions on adding this to the mix?
 
The cg wash and clay should take care of stripping.

IMHO - I'd do BH then 1 coat exp, wait 24 then another coat of exp, then 24 then wax away.

Remember, pictures are required
 
So 2 coats is better than 1 with EX-P?

Will the glaze last as long as the sealant since it is the first layer down or will the benefits be gone with the first wash?
 
PFix said:
So 2 coats is better than 1 with EX-P?

Will the glaze last as long as the sealant since it is the first layer down or will the benefits be gone with the first wash?
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yes, two are better than one for complete coverage ..the Black Hole lasts as long as what ever is on top of it :)
 
Mr. Gloss said:
What is a CG wash?
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Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Clear. I don't use this for my normal wash soap but I liked the idea of a wash that can be safely mixed to wax removal dilutions and also left nothing behind in terms of gloss enhancers when prepping for LSP's. That may or may not be correct thinking but it makes me feel better.

Poorboy. Thanks for the reply. Just finished the wash and dry now its time to get to work with the Black Hole.
 
Concours.John said:
Pfix what is your dilution rate on the CG wash? Sounds like I might try that. Thanks.
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John, the normal wash dilution rate is 1/2oz. per 2 gallons. For use as a paint cleanser, 2 ounces per gallon is recommended. It worked very well for me at the higher concentration rate. The soap was super super slippery at the the paint cleanser ratio.

Dawn dish soap sure doesn't feel slippery like this wash does.
 
I have got to break down and buy a DA. My hands arms and shoulders are feeling the effect of working the Black Hole into the paint yesterday.

I applied the EX-P early this morning and I let it haze over for about 1 hour or so. It was a bit more work than I expected to remove the product. I used a foam applicator that was moistened with distilled water and tried to apply the product thin but I found the pad required a lot of pressure to leave any visible sign of product on the paint unless I reapplied more product frequently.

Any suggestions on how to apply a thinner coat without bearing down on the pad to leave any product on the paint?
 
PFix said:
I have got to break down and buy a DA. My hands arms and shoulders are feeling the effect of working the Black Hole into the paint yesterday.

I applied the EX-P early this morning and I let it haze over for about 1 hour or so. It was a bit more work than I expected to remove the product. I used a foam applicator that was moistened with distilled water and tried to apply the product thin but I found the pad required a lot of pressure to leave any visible sign of product on the paint unless I reapplied more product frequently.

Any suggestions on how to apply a thinner coat without bearing down on the pad to leave any product on the paint?
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IMHO
I don't moisten a sealant applicator.

The first few sections go on a little heavy and as the pad absorbs more product, then you can use less.
 
I followed the instructions on the EX-P bottle and it said to moisten the pad first then apply the product... I am not sure if I applied it too thick making it difficult to remove or if leaving it on for 1 hour as suggested by the directions made it hard to remove.

I wonder if I had moistened the pad with a QD if that would have allowed the sealant to apply in a thinner coat without having to bear down on the pad The majority of the sealer wiped off fairly easily but I had several spots on every panel that I really had to rub and rub to remove the sealant.

I am new to working with sealant as opposed to paste wax. I was expecting the product to buff off very easily but that was not the case.
 
Maybe preload the applicator pad with sealant, work it in to the pad a bit before it ever touches the car. Then apply as normal. Sort of what a lot of people do with 105. I haven't tried it but it's worth a shot. It's weird that you had a tough time removing it though. Even applied too thick I have never had issues removing PB products.
 
I applied the sealant to the pad and folded the excess into the pad to be absorbed by the foam. The pad quickly began to grab on the paint unless I continued to apply more sealant making very difficult to apply in a thin layer. The Black Hole wiped off very easy and went on very well and left the paint looking beautiful.

Has anyone left EX-P on the paint for 1 hour before removing?
 
Mike Phillips of Show Car Garage produced a video on how to break open a sealant or wax and how to remove it.

It was very helpful to me.

Visit Autogeek and click on Show Car Garage at the header banner.
 
Great video, I have seen it and I used this same method to remove the sealant. I used white Cobra Indigo edgeless MF towels designed for removing wax and sealant. There were just several spots on every panel that did not want to come off. I had to apply so much pressure that the panels were flexing in and popping back.
 
either you went a bit too heavy in those areas, or the Black Hole might not have been buffed off. It's hard to say without being there. Applicator should be slightly damp, but not wet. Some people to prime the applicator with the product, and that does work too.
 
I think I went too heavy. Whenever the pad started to grab on the paint I applied more sealant. I knew to apply it thin, but it sure did not work out that way. Like I said, I am new to working with sealant and like anything else I will get better with practice. The paint looks really good though. I will be applying the second coat of sealant tonight. I think it will go on a little easier with 1 layer on the car already

I applied the Black Hole on Sat. afternoon and had to quit for the day. I applied the sealant Sunday morning. Would not applying the sealant immediately after removing the Black Hole have caused it to be more difficult to remove?
 
PFix said:
I think I went too heavy. Whenever the pad started to grab on the paint I applied more sealant. I knew to apply it thin, but it sure did not work out that way. Like I said, I am new to working with sealant and like anything else I will get better with practice. The paint looks really good though. I will be applying the second coat of sealant tonight. I think it will go on a little easier with 1 layer on the car already

I applied the Black Hole on Sat. afternoon and had to quit for the day. I applied the sealant Sunday morning. Would not applying the sealant immediately after removing the Black Hole have caused it to be more difficult to remove?
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Working by hand does make it a bit harder to get thin coats ...

Most people apply a LSP (wax or sealant ) right after Black Hole, so that should not be a problem ... but again most are using some type of machine.
 
Poorboy said:
Working by hand does make it a bit harder to get thin coats ...

Most people apply a LSP (wax or sealant ) right after Black Hole, so that should not be a problem ... but again most are using some type of machine.
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I have got to get a DA.

Thanks for the replies everyone.
 
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