EX-p over S100 paint cleanser?

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Dalton

New member
Any bonding issues? How to apply S100 Paint cleaner with a PC?

Also, if I am using SSR1 and EX-P is a cleaner such as S100 necessary?
 
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Don't know about the bonding issue. Used mine with S100 Carnauba.
Applied the paint cleanser with the PC and a Meguiar's polishing pad with the PC at 4.5. Didn't really work it very long, but my paint was pretty decent to start with. Seemed to work quite well.

Charles
 
Thanks Charles. I know that Steve (poorboy's) said that EX-P can be used with everything but Zaino but I was wondering if anyone knew for sure.
 
I'm not positive, but I don't think the S100 leaves anything on the finish.

Also, from what I have read, it is very likely theat the SSR1 will leave your paint ready for EX-P. I haven't used it, so I can't say.

If you have the S100 SEC already, it is very easy to use, so it wouldn't add a lot of work to the overall process.

Charles
 
It probably would be overkill. So you are saying that SSR1 is not only a swirl remover but will also clean my paint?
 
Dalton said:
It probably would be overkill. So you are saying that SSR1 is not only a swirl remover but will also clean my paint?
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SSR1 is not a paint cleaner and will leave some polishing residue behind....that is why SSR1 leaves such an incredible glossy, slick finish (it's my favorite light polish). It can almost be used like a glaze. ProPolish will be more of a traditional paint cleaner/polish as it will leave a squeaky clean finish.

S100 SEC and SSR1 are pretty similar IMHO. From what I recall S100 SEC/P21s GEPC did seem to leave some slickness (i.e. polishing oils) behind.

From what Steve has told me EX-P will work fine with any of those cleaners/polishes we mentioned.

Natty
 
Thanks Natty. Do you recommend SSR1/GEPC/EX-p? I hear PP is a little difficult to work with. Would SSR1/GEPC/EX-p give me a good result?
 
PP isn't difficult to work with. You just need to know how to use it. :) PP is one of the most versatile weapons in my arsenal. I use it on glass, plastic, chrome and paint. The trick is to shake it very well and use a small amount. Work it until it is almost gone. It will buff of nicely.
 
How does it compare to GEPC? The reason I ask is that I can get that locally and I am planning a big detail this weekend. I may be able to get PP but dont want to risk being without it.

What order are these products used?
 
Scott P said:
PP isn't difficult to work with. You just need to know how to use it. :) PP is one of the most versatile weapons in my arsenal. I use it on glass, plastic, chrome and paint. The trick is to shake it very well and use a small amount. Work it until it is almost gone. It will buff of nicely.
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:yeah The working until almost gone is the key!

I can't really say which may be absolute best to use with EX-P since I haven't yet tried EX-P. I hope to try it this weekend but it'll be a while before I try enough combinations to know what my favorite EX-P routine is. Even so, what may be my favorite EX-P routine may not be yours and visa versa. My initial plan is SSR1 or PP followed by two applications of EX-P over the weekend followed by Natty Wax (this is on a brand new white Mazda6). I may prep one side with SSR1 and the other half with PP and see how well EX-P lasts on both sides.

If you have SSR1 or SEC then go ahead and use either one. I wouldn't bother using both though as IMO, it would be redundant. We're splitting hairs here. The look of EX-P over SSR1, SEC or even PP is going to be so minutely different that 95% will not be able to distinguish any difference at all. The X-factor may be the ability of EX-P to last longer if used over PP given that it will have a nice clean surface on which to adhere. Of course, since I haven't used EX-P this is purely my unsubstantiated opinion based on "traditional" thinking of how to maximize longevity when using sealants.

Try all the combos with EX-P yourself and find what works best for you. You could end up helping us all out by discovering a new killer combo! I'm sure any of the products you mentioned, when used properly and in the right situation will yield excellent results with EX-P. Thats the fun stuff!
 
:yeah I completely agree with Natty's and ScottP's advice. All excellent points. The only additional comment I can add is that it will be much easier to wipe off PP if it is allowed to completely dry. If it doesn't seem to want to dry, you have probably used too much product. Try one panel at a time, and get comfortable with the product before attempting to do the whole car. Once you figure out the proper amount of product to use and the corresponding buffing effort, PP actually becomes very easy to use with a PC.
 
Can I polish the whole car before buffing off PP and or SSR1? Or is it better to buff right after working in?
 
membim said:
Can I polish the whole car before buffing off PP and or SSR1? Or is it better to buff right after working in?
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I would highly recommend allowing the PP to dry FULLY before removing.

The ssr1 I have done as you mentioned, but it was a toch harder to remove. I prefer to work it until it is almost gone, then remove with MF.
 
I've never had any problems with SSR1 or PP. I've left them on and I've taken them off immediately and could not see any significant difference. Easy task in all cases.
 
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