HD Adapt on a Black Dodge Challenger

S

Sdmonkey

New member
Hello everyone,

i recently took took up the challenge to polish my cars and seal them up. I just bought the HD Adapt from the Chula Vista location based on their recommendation. I have only used Meg's UC and UP on another car. Those two products did not remove very much of the fine scratches. Seems more like they tried to hide them.

My equipment at hand is (putting on flame suit) a Harbor Freight DA polisher with 3D product 5" backing plate. I have the HF pads in orange, blue and black.

I used only only the blue pad to do a test spot. I did 3 passes 3 times. Now I have micro marring. I have searched high and low for more people's recommendations when using this product. At this point I need some help in dealing with this.

My my lsp will be Meg's #21. The car is only a year old and spends most of its time in the garage.


Before


After
 
I still own my HF DA and did a lot of work with it so no need to worry about that. I now have a PC and Rupes as well but the HF still will get plenty of work. As for the micro marring the Megs #21 should hide those quite well shouldn't it? If the Chula Vista store is close to you I would go back and get some HD Polish and hit it with the blue pad again. Results in the photo look pretty good to me.
 
I think I will go pick up the polish, I just want to make sure I using the HD Adapt correctly. It did take out all the fine scratches on speed 5 but I had to go back to get the deeper ones. Then I saw the micro marring and tried to get those out. I took out the deeper scratches on speed 6 and took half the micro marring off on speed 5. I'm going to try the orange pad in another test area where it's also really bad followed up with the blue one. Seem the hood has the most problems. Everything else is pretty minor, blue pad should work. Looking at the pads at 2 different detail supply houses, I couldn't see any difference in x,y,and a brand. Just price is all over the place.

funny thing is how this went from me learning and doing my own cars to now having 3 others to do for my wife's friends.
 
HD Adapt took me a few times to reach the 'a-ha!' moment, so hang in there. Adapt and your selection of pads should allow you to finish the paint and remove the d/a haze you are seeing.

How much pressure are you using?
Cleaning your pad after every section?
How long are you working Adapt? (This stuff needs to be worked quite long for a SMAT polish.)
 
I can't really see anything in the second picture but I would think that adapt would finish down clean on that pad. What kind of micro fibers are you using? and are your pads completely clean (any pigtails)? But maybe pick up a couple pads at 3D too (green or blue or mircofiber finishing) and do another test spot.
 
The Guz said:
You should pick up some better pads.
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Ah... I totally missed the HF pads... I was thinking- '...Orange, Blue, Black...' B&S pads.

OP- I have never used HF pads so I can't comment on their performance but I believe the 3D pads are made by B&S. They have worked excellently for me with Adapt. If you return to the 3D store... pick some of these up if they are in the budget. And pick up 3- 4, at the very least, of each color you want/ need.
 
Thanks for the info, I'll be taking a trip to 3D products for the polish and new pads. My last trip there, they didn't have any 5" pads. I may just have to order them or take a trip up to Poway for some Meg's pads.
 
Been thinking about your post some more. I've had a lot of success with Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish. Ultimate compound will not hide as it has no filling properties. It could be that the paint you were working with was hard. Ultimate Polish has more polishing oils than M205. I would say to try ultimate polish on a polishing pad and see if that helps. You may even try it on a finishing pad if the paint you are dealing with is soft.

Did you do a test spot with the least aggressive product to start? Is that the reason you went with the compound right off the bat? The test spot will tell you if you are working with hard or soft paint. How's your technique using the DA?
 
I'm new at this and the UC and UP didn't do a good job on my Hyundai. It did manage to remove hard water spots but it left me wanting more. People say it looks brand new but 75% of the scratches are still there. I tried the UP on the Challenger and it did nothing for the scratches. This was before I bought the UC. I went to 3D products and they recommend HD Adapt vs just the HD polish I had in hand. I'm thinking I should have just bought the HD Polish and HD UNO. Another supply store recommended Megs DA MF kit with D300 and polish/wax. After reading up on that system I opted to stay away from it. It's very aggressive and overkill for my needs.

I don't know much about the UC or UP as it compares to the pro products. Meg's recommended it to me when I called them but even they say it's for people like me because they don't want me to mess up my car.

Since I won't be able to go to 3D products for a few days, I'll try the UP on the test spot I did with the HD Adapt.

I went to pick up my son from school and looked at the test spot vs the areas around it. Can't see the micro marring in the sun, needs a spot light and just the right angle. So now I'm thinking I just need to relax a bit and try out the UP and see how it finishes with the Megs #21. This is all a learning process for me.

My DA skills are improving panel by panel. I'm looking for some local classes to get some hands on training. Something that doesn't cost $1500...not trying to start a business.

I have watched hours and hours worth of videos and read just as many articles. Does nothing for hands on experience, blue tape is my friend and I keep the working small areas. Cleaning the pad after every panel, keeping new pads on Stand by.
 
Looks like a good start. To get the best results compounding with HD Adapt, I recommend getting 2 things. One, new pads. HD Adapt is fantastic on microfiber cutting discs, including their house brand pads. They are affordable and can get insane cut even with a HF DA. Second, better lighting. Even if it's just a handheld light, get something that has more focus and a direct beam to capture the swirling and RDS. HD Adapt was in the Detailer's Box some months back and I had awesome results with BnS Orange foam cutting pad but I also was using a Rupes LHR15.

HD-Adapt-Example.jpg
 
Sdmonkey said:
I'm new at this and the UC and UP didn't do a good job on my Hyundai. It did manage to remove hard water spots but it left me wanting more. People say it looks brand new but 75% of the scratches are still there. I tried the UP on the Challenger and it did nothing for the scratches. This was before I bought the UC. I went to 3D products and they recommend HD Adapt vs just the HD polish I had in hand. I'm thinking I should have just bought the HD Polish and HD UNO. Another supply store recommended Megs DA MF kit with D300 and polish/wax. After reading up on that system I opted to stay away from it. It's very aggressive and overkill for my needs.

I don't know much about the UC or UP as it compares to the pro products. Meg's recommended it to me when I called them but even they say it's for people like me because they don't want me to mess up my car.

Since I won't be able to go to 3D products for a few days, I'll try the UP on the test spot I did with the HD Adapt.

I went to pick up my son from school and looked at the test spot vs the areas around it. Can't see the micro marring in the sun, needs a spot light and just the right angle. So now I'm thinking I just need to relax a bit and try out the UP and see how it finishes with the Megs #21. This is all a learning process for me.

My DA skills are improving panel by panel. I'm looking for some local classes to get some hands on training. Something that doesn't cost $1500...not trying to start a business.

I have watched hours and hours worth of videos and read just as many articles. Does nothing for hands on experience, blue tape is my friend and I keep the working small areas. Cleaning the pad after every panel, keeping new pads on Stand by.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't buy any more products at this point (you mentioned HD Polish which is a great final polish & HD Uno which I wouldn't recommend even if you needed a compound)... in reality, UC & UP, should work and so should HD Adapt. Actually, I find UC to cut slightly better than HD Adapt but finish worse depending on the paint system.

Go ahead and try UP behind Adapt and see what happens. BTW, UC & UP are VERY similar to their Mirror Glaze counterparts so they are very good products and I reach for them from time to time... they are truly the best combo found at your local autoparts or larger retailer.

Did you watch this yet? http://www.autopia.org/forums/detai...lation-dual-action-polishing-barry-theal.html

Everyone polishes a little different but keeping the machine movement slow with constant, solid downward pressure helps the pad and product do the job, like Barry shows.
 
Great support from the members on this one! HD Adapt can certainly be a little bit tricky and definitely has a learning curve to it. Many times going to heavy on the pad will cause pad marring. Don't be afraid to try a mid range pad with this product. Just work it nice & slow and let the product do all the heavy work. Try the 3D/HD Green foam pad as a starting point. Keep us updated on your progress.
 
I think you are getting great feedback from the guys above..

Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish are supposed to be more user friendly versions of their Stellar Pro M105 and 205 compounds...
I have years of experience with M105 and M205 and once you learn how to work with them ( they are exactly the opposite in how they work), you can do anything..

We would all benefit from knowing exactly what you are doing - how hard you are pressing down, how much product you are using, what speed are you using..

Did you Claybar the car after you washed it to get all the embedded stuff out ?? This always helps the rest of the process go well, unless you already have super smooth = clean paint to begin with..

If I ever had to use anything but my Rotary, I would be running it as fast as it will go (Random Orbitals), give it as much downward pressure as possible but not so much to stop pad rotation and work the product till its gone..

Pad Rotation - every machine needs as much of it as possible it to break down the product and work it into the paint to correct and finish the surface..

If you are using good foam pads, this process will work pretty much every time..

This is why I will always use a Rotary.. :) But you dont have to use this to get great results...they just take a lot longer to obtain..

I have used for years, the Lake Country Hydro-Shred Twins - Cyan and Tangerine in all sizes, and the Cyan (the most aggressive) pretty much can kill anything on the paint with my Makita 9227C..
And as a bonus, these pads cut and finish down amazingly clear, no swirls, holograms, micromarring, etc...

If you are new at this, I would try to get the foam pads down first before venturing out to that high-maintenance-world of micro fiber pads.. They need much more care and cleaning after each session on that 1 panel spot, than foam will ever need..

Good luck with this - You will get it, you have sufficient equipment - your HF Random Orbital is fine - just take your time, think about what you are doing, keep the foam pad and product a little moist and dont let it dry out and dust everywhere, it really doesnt need to get to that point.. Just watch what you are doing and dont get sidetracked or too involved in anything else while you are on the machine..
Dan F
 
3DHD products are NOTHING like Megs twins. As Dave said start with the green pad. I use buff and shine and have yet to have to use anything over the white pad. Throw the HF pads to the "I need something to clean bathroom tile with" bag.

watch some of the You tube vids showing how to use 3D/HD products.

3D and Buff and Shine use the same colors for applications-- if green isn’t working, try a white. Make sure your paint is clean as another poster noted, slow arm speed, and with 3d hd a little goes a long way! no need to totally coat your pad like you do with megs,, 5 or 6 pea sized drops or just an X will be fine, manually spread some on the paint with the buffer, start slow to evenly spread product over work area, I run my HF at 5 for most jobs, you can put some pressure on for maybe 2 passes then ease up, let machine and pad do the work.

For your LSP stick to the product line and use SPEED on a green or blue pad. Green if you need a few more fine scratches removed and good gloss (this is the pad I use for most AIO application with speed) or blue if you just want more gloss and less correction, LEARN YOUR PRODUCTS, ASK THE PEOPLE AT THE STORE FOR HELP. Slow arm speed and good microfiber towels (you don’t have to spend a lot, just good quality) and better lighting. Cheap and good solution is a aluminum clip light and a 90 watt cfl spot (8bucks) they put out great light and show swirls just fine.

I tossed my UP and UC,, just didn’t have the boom I was wanting nor the correction I needed. Causing a full night of frustration.

I want to toss a hearty second to Barrys vid and ill post it again! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsOFu-AzeUM
Hope this helps.
 
http://www.autopia.org/forums/detai...lation-dual-action-polishing-barry-theal.html

I watched this and many more. I only found 2 videos of HD Adapt being used. One is the promotional video by 3D products and the other from a guy using it on one spot with a Rubes to remove scratches on a Ford mustang. With limited information on a product, I wasn't sure if I was using it correctly. Not much info in found in forums either. I'm going to go out and buy a new set of pads (foam) and play around with the products. To find that mix that works right for this car. This is a lot of work but it's so satisfying that it becomes fun to do.

I thank everyone for all the help. I honestly did not expect to have so many knowledgeable people respond. I will take a series of pictures and post my progress. I have the flu right now so it's going to be a few days or so before anything gets done.
 
Sdmonkey said:
I thank everyone for all the help. I honestly did not expect to have so many knowledgeable people respond. I will take a series of pictures and post my progress. I have the flu right now so it's going to be a few days or so before anything gets done.
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Hope you get well soon. As beamerstrumpet said 3D/HD does host free learning days. Not sure when your store might have one but you can always ask them or come up north to either Fontana or the big one in Santa Clarita. I haven't been to any though so I can't comment on how they are. Sounds like you are doing alright so far though and I don't remember if I said it earlier but welcome to Autopia!
 
Sdmonkey said:
Thanks for the info, I'll be taking a trip to 3D products for the polish and new pads. My last trip there, they didn't have any 5" pads. I may just have to order them or take a trip up to Poway for some Meg's pads.
Click to expand...

if they are out the best deal is autoality for mix pack and shipping and they are fast. If the bug really bites it would be good to join their detailers club for better prices!
 
Sorry I haven't been back to update my progress. I was and still am recovering from the flu. I bought some B&S pads and picked up some HD Polish. I have had zero success with the polish. It dusts like crazy and instantly on me every time I try to use it. But I also learned it's not me or the polishes fault all on its own. These brand new pads when tapped together make little dust clouds. I'm so tired of of these issues. So I went back to using the Adapt since it didn't dust or doesn't as much as the polish. The polish just makes more work for me. I tried green pads but still didn't take out all the scratches. Used a white pad and all is well but takes two to three times over on each panel. At this point I'm gonna buy some MF pads and hopefully call it a day on buying pads. I worked in the hood extensively and finally have it an an acceptable point. It's not perfect but it's not a show car either.

I put 2 coats of Meguiars #21 on hood and just need to finish up the rest of the car. The hood was the worst but the swirls on the rest of the car may put up a fight. I'm very disappointed in these pads and both the polish and Adapt. They are not cheap and they didn't perform as expected. I spoke with the guys at the store and bothered them on every problem I am having. I think I should have just bought the Meguiars MF kit with D300 and fishing wax. It would have been cheaper than the bottle of Adapt, Polish and all these pads. Live and learn I guess. At this point I will use up what I have and move on to other products. I have read and watched everything I could find on using HD polish and some report the exact problems I am having. The picture Im gonna post of the polish shows the dust and I had stop in the middle of my first pass on the panel due to the mess being made. Took longer to clean up the dust than the polish.

I have learned you need to run the HF DA at sped 6 to get any kind of cut. It's just not gonna happen on speed 4 or 5. I'd also buy a different brand of pad since they dust all on there own. The HF pads may not be very good but they didn't have dust in them. The Adapt may perform better with a MF pad and I'm hoping it does. I have an air compressor so cleaning them should be easy.
 
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