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  1. #31

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    Thanks mikenap. So I will use Meg mf discs w/D300 and then probably only try ezcreme glaze and then BFWD. That`s for the heads up.

  2. #32

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    i m no expert but i thought if you have polished to perfection than a glaze isn`t needed. however. if ez creme is similar to enhancing polish than this type of glaze would be apropos as a gloss enhancer before bfwd... now in the case of the original question the alchohol is 70% and the dilution ratio is 70/30 not 50/50...

  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by glfahlc View Post
    i m no expert but i thought if you have polished to perfection than a glaze isn`t needed. however. if ez creme is similar to enhancing polish than this type of glaze would be apropos as a gloss enhancer before bfwd... now in the case of the original question the alchohol is 70% and the dilution ratio is 70/30 not 50/50...
    Yeah, guess the $ was burnin` a hole in my pocket and had to spend more $ on something I really didn`t need! :doh:

  4. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird View Post
    Yeah, guess the $ was burnin` a hole in my pocket and had to spend more $ on something I really didn`t need! :doh:
    hell i do that all the time...join the club

  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw5541 View Post
    As long as you use an Acrylic based glaze (like EZCreme Glaze), you will have no problem with the sealant bonding to the glaze. If you put a glaze over the sealant, it will only last until it rains next.
    This is true. I was going to mention the only only time I`d lay a glaze down first was if it was Danase Wet Glaze which is an acrylic glaze but I forgot to mention it. Normally glazes can have a lot of oils and or fillers in them so obviously you can`t expect to have a sealant bond really well with the paints surface when you`re putting it on top of something oily. As was mentioned, an acrylic glaze is the exception yet I`d personally still put the sealant down first.

  6. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by never gone View Post
    This is true. I was going to mention the only only time I`d lay a glaze down first was if it was Danase Wet Glaze which is an acrylic glaze but I forgot to mention it. Normally glazes can have a lot of oils and or fillers in them so obviously you can`t expect to have a sealant bond really well with the paints surface when you`re putting it on top of something oily. As was mentioned, an acrylic glaze is the exception yet I`d personally still put the sealant down first.
    After I posted my original question I did two things
    .
    #1..I did some research and found an article on the Chemical Guys EZ-Creme Glaze. In short since it is a acrylic glaze the detailer says he has had lots of success putting it on after the polish and before the Blackfire sealant. SO, this concurs with what has already been said by others.

    #2...Talked to a rep at ProperAutoCare and asked about the alcohol rub. In short a rule of thumb is...if the polish doesn`t have a glaze in it then the alcohol is used to remove any polish oils that were left behind before applying a sealant or glaze. If the polish has a glaze in it then an alcohol rub would remove the glaze put on by the polish, so you would not want to do the alcohol rub.

  7. #37

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    I`ve never hear of a "glaze" being left behind as a result of polishing. They are generally 2 different things with 2 different purposes. The second thing you said makes no sense at all so whoever told you that mixed up what they were saying or you misunderstood. You said "If the polish has a glaze in it then an alcohol rub would remove the glaze put on by the polish, so you would not want to do the alcohol rub." To me this makes absolutley no sense. The whole point of polishing is to remove scratches and swirls. Glazes are generally used to hide or mask scratches and swirls. The reason you use an alcohol/water mix on the car after each panel is you WANT to remove any polishing oils because you want to make sure you actually got rid of the scratches/swirls and that you`re not just filling them in a little because that defeats the whole purpose of polishing. If a polish left a glaze behind and you weren`t supposed to do the alcohol wipe down, how would you know if you actually corrected the paint or just camouflaged the scratches/swirls with the glaze?? You`d have to see this is common sense.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by never gone View Post
    I`ve never hear of a "glaze" being left behind as a result of polishing. They are generally 2 different things with 2 different purposes. The second thing you said makes no sense at all so whoever told you that mixed up what they were saying or you misunderstood. You said "If the polish has a glaze in it then an alcohol rub would remove the glaze put on by the polish, so you would not want to do the alcohol rub." To me this makes absolutley no sense. The whole point of polishing is to remove scratches and swirls. Glazes are generally used to hide or mask scratches and swirls. The reason you use an alcohol/water mix on the car after each panel is you WANT to remove any polishing oils because you want to make sure you actually got rid of the scratches/swirls and that you`re not just filling them in a little because that defeats the whole purpose of polishing. If a polish left a glaze behind and you weren`t supposed to do the alcohol wipe down, how would you know if you actually corrected the paint or just camouflaged the scratches/swirls with the glaze?? You`d have to see this is common sense.
    I think the confusion is in the product`s name. It`s not a polish in the manner you`re thinking, as in an abrasive polish like M105 or PO85rd. If you read the description of the BF GEP, it is more like a chemical cleaner that leaves a glaze behind. Klasse All-in-One is labeled a polish, but is a chemical cleaner as well. Zaino and Duragloss have products they label as polishes which are actually just sealants. In this case, check out the product description to see what I mean.

    http://classic-motoring.stores.yahoo...cglosenpo.html

  9. #39

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    I will comment on this...... as I took some heat in the past from a select few for using CG EZ Creme for filling. I utilize the IPA mostly on jet black or soft paints where you will run into problems or when the weather gets hot and polishes can act up on certain finishes(Which is really a problem for those of you in humid climates such as the "J". Todd and Bing in Orlando, Bryan in Atlanta and also Dave F in S.Florida, Barry in PA, Marc & Jacob in Detriot ect...

    I put distilled water in with the IPA in a squeeze bottle, and use just what I need on a finish microfiber to the paint to confirm the finish is "Good to go", then AFTER everything is corrected I use the Glaze to pop the finish and add some slickness as well and have never had a issue with any LSP bonding or doing funny stuff.
    :2 cents:
    "Comfortable in my own skin"

  10. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by Auto Concierge View Post
    I will comment on this...... as I took some heat in the past from a select few for using CG EZ Creme for filling. I utilize the IPA mostly on jet black or soft paints where you will run into problems or when the weather gets hot and polishes can act up on certain finishes(Which is really a problem for those of you in humid climates such as the "J". Todd and Bing in Orlando, Bryan in Atlanta and also Dave F in S.Florida, Barry in PA, Marc & Jacob in Detriot ect...

    I put distilled water in with the IPA in a squeeze bottle, and use just what I need on a finish microfiber to the paint to confirm the finish is "Good to go", then AFTER everything is corrected I use the Glaze to pop the finish and add some slickness as well and have never had a issue with any LSP bonding or doing funny stuff.
    :2 cents:
    Same here!


    It`s used to check my work only. Once I`m done polishing the car I will wash to remove dust, also giving the wax/sealant and clean surface to bond too. I may or may not use EZ Creme depending on the car/job.

    For paint coatings like Opti-Coat/Guard I have been going the extra step and doing an IPA wipe-down (as much as I hate it) just to make sure it`s 100% free of oils, as it`s critical with coatings.
    Rasky`s Auto Detailing

    Quote Originally Posted by Auto Concierge View Post
    That finish is "brill" (british slang for tightness) as in "BRILLIANT" great clarity and gloss!!.

  11. #41
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    Borrowed from another forum:


    "How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

    Here are the easiest ways to mix an approximate 10% solution for the most popular concentrations of Isopropyl Alcohol available at the retail level.


    91% IPA
    To mix a 32 ounce Spray Bottle
    Pour 4 ounces or ? of a 16 ounce bottle of 91% IPA into a 32 ounce spray bottle and top the rest of the bottle off with water. This will make 32 ounces at 11.375% IPA to Water solution.


    70% IPA
    To mix a 32 ounce Spray Bottle
    8 ounces (or ? of a 16 ounce bottle) will make 32 ounce of 17.5% IPA to Water solution. Get a 32 ounce container, pour in 8 ounces, (or ? of a 16 ounce bottle) of the 70% IPA and then fill the rest of the container up with water and you get 32 ounces of 17.5% IPA to Water solution.


    50% IPA
    To mix a 32 ounce Spray Bottle
    8 ounces, (or ? of a 16 ounce bottle) will make 32 ounces of 12.5% IPA to Water solution. Get a 32 ounce container and pour in 8 ounces, (or ? of a 16 ounce bottle) of the 50% IPA then fill the container up with water and you get 32 ounces of 12.5% solution.



    Why dilute concentrated IPA to an approximate 10% IPA to Water Solution
    The most common dilution levels you can purchase over the counter are 70% and 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, sometimes you can find 50% version. At the time I`m writing this article, there are no other articles on this topic to give people a general guideline as to how to dilute and use Isopropyl Alcohol to chemically strip paint. I actually made a post to an AG forum thread where I encouraged someone else to write this article, but to date there`s been no takers, so here`s my offering.

    Most of what I`ve read are forum members recommending one of two options,
    Dilute IPA by 50% with water or 1:1
    Use it straight out of the bottle


    Most recommendations I?ve read are:

    Dilute IPA by 50% with water or 1:1

    Diluting 91% IPA 1:1 or by 50% with water would give you approximately a 45% dilution of IPA to water solution.
    Diluting 70% IPA 1:1 or by 50% with water would give you approximately a 35% dilution of IPA to water solution.
    Diluting 50% IPA 1:1 or by 50% with water would give you approximately a 25% dilution of IPA to water solution."

  12. #42

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    Optimum recommends using a 15% alcohol solution prior to applying Opti Coat.

 

 
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