Dear Blackfire sealant experts,

[Todd@RUPES]

When starting to polish and seal with a machine...Does anyone start the process by hand and applicator and go close to all the difficult areas such as door strips,etc, and then polish with the machine and stay away from the difficult areas with the machine or just take off with the machine and go as close as possible and then finish up with the applicator by hand?? Sorry to ask such newbie questions but have never used the machine before. Sometimes asking a stupid question first can save some time and troubles.

Please don`t apologize for any question but do let me know if I didn`t help out.

Polishing the paint (ie removing swirl marks) requires a different technique then applying a wax (or sealant) with the machine.

When polishing out swirl marks, the technique tends to be more aggressive. Move slowly (about 1-3 inches per second) with medium pressure (about 10-15 lbs) and work in repeating overlapping passes over a small area, until the polish begins to look clear. You will want to use speeds 4 to 6.

When you are polishing like this to remove damage you want to use the machine as much as possible to take advantage of the increased power. Use painters tape to mask off the trim and the edges so you can work the machine into the tightest area possible. Some areas may require hand polishing. I personally like to do these area`s last, because I like to see what I can get done with the machine first.

When applying a wax or sealant the goal is lay a very thin, very uniform film of product on the surface of the paint. Use a very soft pad (Lake Country Red or Gold) on speed 2 or 3. Overlap each pass as much as necessary to ensure even coverage. Instead of working a small area at a time, you will work until there is no longer product on the pad to spread around, usually about a 1/5 or 1/4 of the car.

When applying a wax or sealant with a machine I will use a hand applicator to get to the spots that a machine cannot reach. In this case I will usually do this part, going around vents, girls, jambs, etc, then using a machine to cover the rest of the area. This is simply a matter of preference, what is more important that all areas of the car are protected.

Best of luck and see what works for you!!!

[imported_blk45]

(right after I wash my car).

You, wash your car?

[genew]

Re: wax/sealant maybe 1/4 car at a time.. In some of the instructions for polishing I seem to remember laying out two 8 inch long lines of product and then taking the polisher ( turned off ) and smearing the polish over the area. Now on the wax/sealant is that the same 2 8 inch long lines which will spread over the 1/4 of the car?? Seems like I need to repeat the process several times?? Well after this last question I`ll be finished with this until I get started! Ha! Thanks for your help.
Gene

[imported_Peco]

Please don`t apologize for any question but do let me know if I didn`t help out.

Polishing the paint (ie removing swirl marks) requires a different technique then applying a wax (or sealant) with the machine.

When polishing out swirl marks, the technique tends to be more aggressive. Move slowly (about 1-3 inches per second) with medium pressure (about 10-15 lbs) and work in repeating overlapping passes over a small area, until the polish begins to look clear. You will want to use speeds 4 to 6.

When you are polishing like this to remove damage you want to use the machine as much as possible to take advantage of the increased power. Use painters tape to mask off the trim and the edges so you can work the machine into the tightest area possible. Some areas may require hand polishing. I personally like to do these area`s last, because I like to see what I can get done with the machine first.

When applying a wax or sealant the goal is lay a very thin, very uniform film of product on the surface of the paint. Use a very soft pad (Lake Country Red or Gold) on speed 2 or 3. Overlap each pass as much as necessary to ensure even coverage. Instead of working a small area at a time, you will work until there is no longer product on the pad to spread around, usually about a 1/5 or 1/4 of the car.

When applying a wax or sealant with a machine I will use a hand applicator to get to the spots that a machine cannot reach. In this case I will usually do this part, going around vents, girls, jambs, etc, then using a machine to cover the rest of the area. This is simply a matter of preference, what is more important that all areas of the car are protected.

Best of luck and see what works for you!!!

Sorry I know I`m new here but I seen this and just had to post. I usually take the "GIRLS" off the car before I detail and then put them back on for the photo shoot. OK back to the main subject now.

[imported_User Name]

I once made a product suggestion to MOL that they put a color additive in NXT 2.0 for those applying product on white cars (like me). Now, I notice the BF Wet Diamond is a turquoise color, will haze this color as well, making it more visible on my white car?

Hoping the answer is yes!!!

[Todd@RUPES]

[QUOTE=User Name;6468]I once made a product suggestion to MOL that they put a color additive in NXT 2.0 for those applying product on white cars (like me). Now, I notice the BF Wet Diamond is a turquoise color, will haze this color as well, making it more visible on my white car?

Hoping the answer is yes!!![/QUOTE]

No....

It will still haze `whitish` (is that even a word)? as will most products, regardless of the color they are dyed.

Besides we wouldn`t want to offend users who have turquoise colored cars

[imported_User Name]

Okay, no such luck but tomorrow`s the big day when I take BF Wet Diamond out for a test drive.