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  1. #1

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    ONR clay + Interior detailer question

    Hi guys,

    I have some questions if someone can please guide me. I am a newbie.

    1. What`s a good interior detailing/cleaning product. I already have Tuff Stuff for my seats. I`d like a little shine.
    "Chemical Guys Total Interior" has good Amazon reviews, but I don`t think it leaves any shine (which I want).

    2. I have Optimum No Rinse and Aero Cosmetics Wash Wax All. After using either of them, can I use Mothers clay bar? If so, should I use the Mothers Instant Detailer that came with the clay bar - or should I use more of ONR or Wash Wax All as the lubricant?

    There is a video on Youtube where a guy from Optimum uses ONR and then uses a clay towel with Optimum Car Wax. But I`d like to know if I can use a clay bar.

    3. If clay bar is okay to do after a rinseless/waterless wash, as a next step, should I use "CarPro Eraser" before the last step of wax?

    4. After doing ONR (and clay), if I just use either Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax or Collinite 845 - is that enough? Or should I use a separate sealant as well? If so, which one please?

    Thanks for any guidance guys!

  2. #2
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    Re: ONR clay + Interior detailer question

    Sure, you can use the Mothers clay bar with the QD it comes with, or ONR. When using ONR as a clay lube, I like to mix it about 1.5x stronger than they recommend. And use distilled water when you mix it.

    Of course you can use a clay bar instead of a clay towel. Use what you like.

    Before you clay, be sure the panel is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. I go through a lot of waterless wash before I start to clay.

    Collinite 845 is enough, it`s a great product. The Butter Wet Wax is "enough" if you plan to use it once a week without fail.

    You don`t need a sealant if you use 845. it`s that good. Here in Florida, I get a few months out of 845, and just a bit longer from sealants. Use what ya got and enjoy it.

    CarPro Eraser before the wax is a great idea.
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  3. #3
    dansautodetailing.com Stokdgs's Avatar
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    Re: ONR clay + Interior detailer question

    And make sure if you use a claybar, it is big enough to go all around the car.. You will need to clean, or knead the dirty side of clay as you remove that stuck on gunk from your paintwork, so that you always have a clean side of clay each time you touch the panel..

    There used to be a really great Blackfire Clay Bar Cleaner that I used tons of, for spraying and wiping off the claybar instead of kneading the dirty spot into the claybar to expose a clean side, each time I clayed a part on the vehicle..

    And know that sometimes, the claybar may introduce some marring into the paintwork, so you may want to consider polishing the paint after a thorough clay bar process over the entire vehicle, if this is what you are planning..

    If this is your first time using a clay bar, you will always want to keep the area really wet while using it on the paintwork.. You will feel it kind of grab the paintwork and then gradually, it will get easier as the clay bar picks up the stuck on gunk on the paintwork.. You can actually "hear" the clay bar removing the gunk, and then it goes silent and feels much smoother on that spot as you clay it..

    If you have ever "sanded" anything before, this is the same process, just a different media in your hand.. Smooth, straight strokes, Concentrate on the "feel" you are getting in that hand, don`t just do it without paying close attention..

    But the claybar, used correctly, will absolutely clean the paintwork and leave it feeling really smooth when carefully rubbed with your clean dry hand and fingers.. When you touch a spot you just used it on, and then touch a spot that has not been clayed, you will know what I mean.. It`s a big difference, especially if the car has never seen one..

    The rubberized towels that have been popular for well over a decade, are also really great at achieving the same thing, and do not have to be carefully cleaned to expose a new side.. You just rinse the rubberized towel with water and all the stuff it took out of your paintwork just rinses off.

    The mild versions of the rubberized towels sometimes have to be used more than once on the paintwork, to get it really smooth, for me.. These rubberized towels are much more expensive than a bar of clay, so that is one trade off..

    Dan F
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  4. #4

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    Re: ONR clay + Interior detailer question

    Quote Originally Posted by WaxAddict View Post
    Sure, you can use the Mothers clay bar with the QD it comes with, or ONR. When using ONR as a clay lube, I like to mix it about 1.5x stronger than they recommend. And use distilled water when you mix it.

    Of course you can use a clay bar instead of a clay towel. Use what you like.

    Before you clay, be sure the panel is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. I go through a lot of waterless wash before I start to clay.

    Collinite 845 is enough, it`s a great product. The Butter Wet Wax is "enough" if you plan to use it once a week without fail.

    You don`t need a sealant if you use 845. it`s that good. Here in Florida, I get a few months out of 845, and just a bit longer from sealants. Use what ya got and enjoy it.

    CarPro Eraser before the wax is a great idea.
    Hi,

    I am sorry I clicked dislike by mistake - so sorry about that. How do I remove it please?

  5. #5

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    Re: ONR clay + Interior detailer question

    Why don`t you put sealer on first like Jescar then wait 24 hrs then put on a layer of Collinite 845 it works very well.

  6. #6
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    Re: ONR clay + Interior detailer question

    Quote Originally Posted by getgoing View Post
    Hi,

    I am sorry I clicked dislike by mistake - so sorry about that. How do I remove it please?
    Don`t worry, I got a kick out of it!
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  7. #7

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    Re: ONR clay + Interior detailer question

    Quote Originally Posted by WaxAddict View Post
    Sure, you can use the Mothers clay bar with the QD it comes with, or ONR. When using ONR as a clay lube, I like to mix it about 1.5x stronger than they recommend. And use distilled water when you mix it.

    Of course you can use a clay bar instead of a clay towel. Use what you like.

    Before you clay, be sure the panel is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. I go through a lot of waterless wash before I start to clay.

    Collinite 845 is enough, it`s a great product. The Butter Wet Wax is "enough" if you plan to use it once a week without fail.

    You don`t need a sealant if you use 845. it`s that good. Here in Florida, I get a few months out of 845, and just a bit longer from sealants. Use what ya got and enjoy it.

    CarPro Eraser before the wax is a great idea.
    Hi WaxAddict,

    Thanks for much for your post, I found it very helpful.

    I have some follow up questions, if you can guide me please:

    1. Do I need to use products like CarPro Iron X?

    From reading online, Iron X should be used before clay. According to Pan TheOrganizer:
    "Claybars do mechanical decontamination. Iron removers do chemical decontamination. Both are important and do different tasks."

    2. I am confused over the categories: cleaner, APC, interior cleaner, interior detailer, quick detailer, dressing.

    Any help with reducing these please, with product recommendations?
    I am confused because I found these lists from Pan`s Youtube channel:

    Best APC + cleaner-degreasers:
    CarPro MultiX. Super Clean. Meguiar’s Super Degreaser. Meguiar APC.

    Best interior cleaners:
    CarPro Inside. Chemical Guys Inner Clean. P&S Interior Cleaner. ONR (standard ONR dilution).

    Best interior dressing/protectant:
    CarPro PERL. 303 Aerospace Protectant. Chemical Guys Silk Shine.

    I don`t know which of these categories/products is redundant.
    I am assuming that for interior I will two products: one to clean and one to dress/shine?

    There is one product from Chemical Guys called Total Interior - should I just use that?

    3. How will I know if I need polish? I am assuming polish can only be applied with a machine and not with a simple microfiber applicator - is that right?

    Thanks.

  8. #8
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    Re: ONR clay + Interior detailer question

    Do you need to use IronX? Absolutely not. But if you have $16 to spare, give it a whirl. If your car has been neglected for many years, it`s worth it. Many YouTubers and well-meaning hobbyists will make it sound like you "need" to buy something. It makes us feel special to know something that other people don`t know. I`d bet $1000 I`m the only person in my neighborhood with a bottle of IronX. It doesn`t make me smart. And 9 times out of 10, it doesn`t improve the final effort by more than almost academic amounts.

    I`ve used IronX once where it made a big difference, and that was an American car that was shipped by rail (train) and sat on a dealer`s lot for a few months. The before and after smoothness was awesome, and worth the $8 of product I used. Point is, this car had iron contamination.

    That`s all I got for now. Maybe someone else will chime in with other help. It seems like from question 2 that you are worrying too much and over thinking things.
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  9. #9

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    Re: ONR clay + Interior detailer question

    Quote Originally Posted by Stokdgs View Post
    And make sure if you use a claybar, it is big enough to go all around the car.. You will need to clean, or knead the dirty side of clay as you remove that stuck on gunk from your paintwork, so that you always have a clean side of clay each time you touch the panel..

    There used to be a really great Blackfire Clay Bar Cleaner that I used tons of, for spraying and wiping off the claybar instead of kneading the dirty spot into the claybar to expose a clean side, each time I clayed a part on the vehicle..

    And know that sometimes, the claybar may introduce some marring into the paintwork, so you may want to consider polishing the paint after a thorough clay bar process over the entire vehicle, if this is what you are planning..

    If this is your first time using a clay bar, you will always want to keep the area really wet while using it on the paintwork.. You will feel it kind of grab the paintwork and then gradually, it will get easier as the clay bar picks up the stuck on gunk on the paintwork.. You can actually "hear" the clay bar removing the gunk, and then it goes silent and feels much smoother on that spot as you clay it..

    If you have ever "sanded" anything before, this is the same process, just a different media in your hand.. Smooth, straight strokes, Concentrate on the "feel" you are getting in that hand, don`t just do it without paying close attention..

    But the claybar, used correctly, will absolutely clean the paintwork and leave it feeling really smooth when carefully rubbed with your clean dry hand and fingers.. When you touch a spot you just used it on, and then touch a spot that has not been clayed, you will know what I mean.. It`s a big difference, especially if the car has never seen one..

    The rubberized towels that have been popular for well over a decade, are also really great at achieving the same thing, and do not have to be carefully cleaned to expose a new side.. You just rinse the rubberized towel with water and all the stuff it took out of your paintwork just rinses off.

    The mild versions of the rubberized towels sometimes have to be used more than once on the paintwork, to get it really smooth, for me.. These rubberized towels are much more expensive than a bar of clay, so that is one trade off..

    Dan F
    Hi Dan F,

    Thanks for your guidance. Please see my post above also.

    I am assuming you are referring to clay towels like "Speedy Surface Prep", "Optimum Ultra Clay Towel", "Nanoskin".
    Some of these are fine grade and some medium. How do we choose the grade?

    Thanks again.

  10. #10

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    Re: ONR clay + Interior detailer question

    Quote Originally Posted by WaxAddict View Post
    Do you need to use IronX? Absolutely not. But if you have $16 to spare, give it a whirl. If your car has been neglected for many years, it`s worth it. Many YouTubers and well-meaning hobbyists will make it sound like you "need" to buy something. It makes us feel special to know something that other people don`t know. I`d bet $1000 I`m the only person in my neighborhood with a bottle of IronX. It doesn`t make me smart. And 9 times out of 10, it doesn`t improve the final effort by more than almost academic amounts.

    I`ve used IronX once where it made a big difference, and that was an American car that was shipped by rail (train) and sat on a dealer`s lot for a few months. The before and after smoothness was awesome, and worth the $8 of product I used. Point is, this car had iron contamination.

    That`s all I got for now. Maybe someone else will chime in with other help. It seems like from question 2 that you are worrying too much and over thinking things.
    Maybe ... it`s just that I never personally detailed my car before. So every single thing in this world is new to me. I was overwhelmed by the number of product categories - especially with similar names (like in my question 2). So I wanted to know which of these are the essential ones - because I can`t buy all and likely don`t need to.

  11. #11

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    Re: ONR clay + Interior detailer question

    getgoing- Welcome to Autopia!

    Some sorta-random thoughts follow:

    The fact that you asked about combining wax + sealant, and that you mentioned what people are doing on YouTube and those ratings on Amazon makes me think "uh-oh, he might actually think that Detailing on the Internet is like doing it in Real Life!" (OK, I`m being a little facetious ) Just remember that online sources aren`t always, uhm...reliable. Yeah, that`s obvious to everybody, but when I see that somebody used Optimum Car WAX with a clay towel, well...

    I strongly advise you to never do *anything* without a specific understanding of what you`re doing and why. I consider this utterly crucial. You need to really *KNOW* what it`s supposed to accomplish, and *how* it is supposed to accomplish that. Only then can you turn to figuring out just *how* to do it.

    Sorry if the above sounds condescending or even insulting, I sure don`t mean to come across that way and I apologize if I did. I just want to head off any potential "oops!" situations that`ll make for more work (at best). Kinda like health care- "first, do no harm".

    I can`t help with Interior Products that provide a shine (I basically never "dress" my interiors anyhow), but turning to some of the other topics...

    INTERIOR PRODUCTS:

    -Products that don`t get rinsed off are usually best for interiors that aren`t very dirty. In those cases a "one product does it all" approach can work OK. Otherwise, I`d clean, rinse, then apply your dressing/etc.
    -To figure out "what the products do", look to the labels, but be leery of that "this one thing will do all those jobs like magic!" claims. That can work fine with Interior Quick Detailers, but only if the surfaces are pretty clean to begin with (FWIW, that`s usually what I do to my interiors), otherwise I`d clean them first
    -There are a few Interior Cleaners that do *not* need rinsed off, but again, I reserve those for mild cleanups

    POLISHES:

    -Different people/companies use the word "Polish" in all sorts of different ways, it can get confusing! Here at Autopia we generally consider "Polish" to mean "mildly abrasive product". Those are used to correct marring (scratches/swirls/etc.) by "sanding" the paint down like sanding a scratch out of a piece of wood. This is a rather complex subject that can`t be dealt with succinctly, but yeah...you`d want to use a Polisher rather than trying to do much by hand. Note that marring is purely cosmetic; if it doesn`t bother *you* then it doesn`t matter.

    IMO you might do better to look into All In One ("AIO") products. Those do a little abrasive polishing (not much, usually won`t completely remove any swirls let alone scratches), and a lot more chemical paint *cleaning*. They also leave a tiny bit of protection behind (but not much at all). I suggest that after you Clay/etc. you use an AIO and then apply the Collinite 845. That`s what I`d have you do if I were setting this project up.

    (There are some relatively new products, including one from Turtle Wax (of all places!) that do both polish and protect well. Worth considering if you`re not bound and determined to use that 845,)

    APC:
    -What do you need it to do? Some people use Degreasers for jobs other than, well...degreasing, whereas I only use it when I need to emulsify grease/oil/etc.

    DECONTAMINATION:

    I don`t decontaminate a vehicle unless it needs it; others do it frequently but I see zero point in doing that. Similarly, I don`t use Ferrous Contamination Removers (e.g., IronX) unless the vehicle has ferrous contamination. That is much more important on light-colored vehicles that`ll show rust-blooms/etc. than it is on darker colors.

    -Some of us (myself included) greatly prefer to use a dedicated Clay Lube when claying. Others are happy using ONR or even regular shampoo mix
    -The clay should glide across the surface on a film of lube, not actually touching the paint. As it bumps into contamination, it shears it off. While the clay does a *LITTLE* "pulling contamination off", that`s minimal; the shearing is what it`s supposed to do. For it to work that way you have to be *VERY* gentle (which will also help minimize clay-induced marring)
    -The Claying process will usually leave some residue (clay lube, a bit of the clay itself). This can often just be washed off like other kinds of dirt, not necessitating a product like Eraser
    -IMO most people fail to knead/replace their clay often enough, by a huge margin. Remember that the instant clay picks up some abrasive contamination, it turns into sandpaper
    -I always tear my claybars into small pieces and use those instead of big chunks (let alone the whole bar). Besides providing insurance in case you drop it (if you do, unless the surface it lands on is operating-room-clean I`d throw that clay away!), it makes it easier to knead if you want to do that (I generally just retire the contaminated clay..maybe use it for wheels/etc...and get out another piece)
    -If you clay, and *especially* IMO if you use a Clay Towel, you might oughta be prepared to do some polishing as it`s very easy to mar the paint even if you do everything right

    COLLINITE 845:

    -I have/use/like/recommend it, but it doesn`t always last as long as people expect. Note that it can almost always be used on black/etc. exterior plastic trim with great results, but you do need to clean such surfaces first
    -As with almost all LSPs (Last Step Products, i.e., wax/sealant/etc.), you don`t need much and most people use a zillion times more than they need to (which can cause issues). A bottle of 845 oughta last the normal person at least a decade even if they`re doing huge vehicles all the time

    SEALANTS:

    -I myself use FinishKare 1000P (paste sealant, basically a syntethetic wax) on most of my vehicles. I *NEVER* top any sealant with wax; I just use one Last Step Product that`s right for the job.

    OK...after all that, here`s where I think you oughta start:

    Figure out what the car really needs. How dirty/contaminated/etc. is it inside and out? How much time to you have and how will you schedule this project (one big go or numerous single-day jobs that`ll do it incrementally). This stuff takes a *LOT* longer than most people ever imagine, especially when you`re starting out.

    GET SOME GOOD INSPECTION LIGHTING. You simply have to see what`s going on to get good results. (No fluorescent lights for inspection! Although they`re fine for general illumination.)

    The more I think on it, the more I think you might oughta look into that newer Turtle Wax product that Polishes and Protects. I can`t recall it`s name (I think it`s one of those "Ceramic" products though), but for a one-and-done it might be the way for you to go, at least this time.

    Sorry if this lengthy post is a bit much, but there`s lots to cover and I *really* want to head off as many potential issues as possible.

  12. #12
    dansautodetailing.com Stokdgs's Avatar
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    Re: ONR clay + Interior detailer question

    Quote Originally Posted by getgoing View Post
    Hi Dan F,

    Thanks for your guidance. Please see my post above also.

    I am assuming you are referring to clay towels like "Speedy Surface Prep", "Optimum Ultra Clay Towel", "Nanoskin".
    Some of these are fine grade and some medium. How do we choose the grade?

    Thanks again.
    Hello, GetGoing ! Hope you and yours are all doing great today !

    In Detailing, it is Always best to try use Mild products applied in a mild manner, to insure you don`t go too aggressive and damage, etc., your surface/s; this goes for the entire vehicle, inside and out..

    One needs to get an idea of how it all works, gain experience, and then experiment a little more, until you find out what is Best for that process, on that vehicle, that day..

    There will never be a set in stone way to do any of this just this way.. Yes, many things are similar and sometimes, the same products work again and again, but you dont know this until you experiment just a bit to see what it looks like on this spot on this vehicle..

    Note how it says on every product - "Try this on a test spot first, etc.," to insure it does not damage the surface, etc...

    I have had great results for years with the "Speedy Surface Prep" rubberized towel in the Mild Grade.. It may take a little extra work on really neglected paint sometimes, but that to me is a better trade off than risking marring the paintwork, that then makes more work for me at the Paint Correction Phase of the Detail.. I believe this S.M. Arnold Speedy Surface Prep Towel was the first one out in the Detailing world. They have been around a long time, and for sure, way before any of the other companies you mention above..

    Look for the best price, especially look at the reviews, and decide if you want to to this and forgo any claybars.. it is very tempting to do just do this, and never have to deal with cleaning a claybar and then throwing it away when it is so full of gunk that there are no more clean sides to it.. The Rubberized Towel is good for a lot of work before it eventually wears out..

    In a production setting, as I have, the Mild SM Arnold product is always my first choice.. On some really fancy, exotic, etc., vehicle, I might just use the Zaino Red Claybar, which is also mild, very easy to use, and is almost impossible to mar anything with it. But I also still have a little qty of the great claybar cleaner left over..
    Dan F

  13. #13

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    ONR clay + Interior detailer question

    Yeah it depends on where you live a lot too. I live in west coast and my car was 2-3 years old and absolutely no color changing in the paint. None on wheels either. Just rotors puple’d up.

    Usually a good thing but i really wanted to see it work.


    Edit: wrong thread?

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

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