I am asking for help finding a LSP for wheels. I am not ready to try a ceramic coating.
My priorities are:
#1 Protection
#2 Longevity
I am thinking of winter protections here. Does anyone have any recommendations ?
Thank you for your help.
I am asking for help finding a LSP for wheels. I am not ready to try a ceramic coating.
My priorities are:
#1 Protection
#2 Longevity
I am thinking of winter protections here. Does anyone have any recommendations ?
Thank you for your help.
Try Sonax PNS. As close to a coating without being a coating.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesSGM2008 liked this post
rimccarty2000- thank you for the response, I will look into the Sonax PNS.
Just get a spray and rinse product like CarPro Hydro2, Mckee’s 37 Hydro Blue, Gyeon Wet Coat, etc.
Competition Ready Team 1929 Bentley
1999 Silvermist Metallic Pontiac Grand Prix GT
2002 Arctic White Chevy Camaro SS
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Likes, 1 Thanks, 0 DislikesFishing thanked for this post
I live in Western PA and all the family DD`s stay outside 24/7, reserving the one available garage stall for my Camino. My favorite for wheels is Finish Kare FK1000p. Just an inexpensive wax/sealant, but it lasts nearly forever on wheels. Accumulator is a serious fan of this on his vehicle`s paint for its longevity. If I`m not doing a coating, I prefer one of the Collinite pastes, either 476 or 915 for winter paint prep, but neither seems to last as long on wheels as the FK. BTW, I have three different variations of wheels on the family fleet:silver painted, clearcoated and chrome. Performance of the FK is great on all variations. None of the cars gets serious mileage, but an intense wheel cleaning is needed only twice yearly. Otherwise, the wheels get cleaned with whatever I`m using on the paint.
Bill
2018 Chevy Colorado ZR2
www.autiopia.org
Third the spray and rinse. Been slacking on coating wheels with how easy hydro blue is
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Likes, 1 Thanks, 0 DislikesFishing thanked for this post
The Sonax PNS sure gets raver reviews! It`s one of the few things that gets favorably compared to FK1000P on a regular basis.
Right.
I previously used KSG X 6, having found Collinite (845 and 476S) insufficiently durable. But getting six layers of anything on wheels means "off the road for days" and the FK1000P holds up about as well with far fewer layers.
FK1000P`ed wheels do indeed clean up fine with shampoo mix, and if an occasional quickie reapplication on the faces needs doing that`s easy enough. No, I don`t bother refreshing the back sides, I just let that go until the Big Annual Job. Which isn`t really *that* big of a job as everything usually cleans up quite easily, even any areas that I`ve somehow failed to keep nice throughout the year (that would be a clue that I need to do better ).
I have a new bottle of 22ple coating sitting here for use on some wheels, but I`m actually experiencing Buyer`s Remorse over it because I can`t justify the time/effort compared to just using an AIO followed by the FK, which goes *MUCH* quicker for me and is utterly Accumulator-proof (the OptiCoat wasn`t bad, but it was a lot harder than AIO + FK1000P and any issues needed spotted right away, which doesn`t always work for me).
I don`t get the Hydro2/etc. approach for, uhm..."wheels that matter"...how do you do the barrels/back sides well enough that they`re not nasty by the time you pull the wheels off to do things right? I`m not flaming it, and it sounds kinda similar to what do on the Tahoe`s winter wheels, which I`ve been leaving bare, cleaning with Wheel Cleaner, and wiping with [whatever Drying Aid] to keep `em shiny and dust-shedding. BUT...that`s an old set of winter wheels on the beater truck, not like the nice oe wheels I run on it during the warmer months, let alone any wheels on the other vehicles. And even those need attention to the back sides/barrels even if I`m just doing something quick and I`m not sure how you`d do that with Hydro2/etc.
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Likes, 1 Thanks, 0 DislikesFishing thanked for this post
WOW great response and informations,,,good learning material. Now i got some thinking to do Thank you all for your help and time.
Just a couple of thin coats of #1000P is all you really need, heck, if you want put on more than 2.
"Logic dictates I have been at this detailing thing way too many years!":wink1:
Another vote for FK1000P. Not as easy to apply as spray and rinse. But last much longer for me. I haven`t been impressed with Wet Coat or hydroblue. Application is stupid easy, just wasn`t happy with the longevity.
Yeah, and doing too many layers, too close together, can render the FK1000P, uhm...less than Accumulator-proof; you can get pseudo-holograms that can be a huge PIA to sort out.
(Ketch has explained what probably went haywire for me, yes indeed- "user-error!", but still...it`s easier for *me* to just not overdo the layering compared to changing my technique. Yeah, I realize how [crappy] that sounds )
On the back sides/barrels I do try to get three or four layers, just because I don`t plan to refresh those areas and I don`t want anything I miss to build up and be a hassle later when I do that Big Annual Redo.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesMarine Clerk liked this post
Thanks guys for the help, going to give the FK1000p a try
Fishing- If you get a chance, please post back about how the FK works for you. I`m such a fanboy for the stuff that I kinda feel responsible whenever somebody here tries it for the first time.
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