More of my Autopian Heresy- IIRC, I`ve never done the Baggie Test and I seldom clay before reLSPing and I get away with it. But that`s just me, YMMV (and almost certainly will), and I hesitate to even post this because it`s better safe than sorry.
It`s all situational; maybe you can do it the way I do, maybe you need to follow the rules..
IF it doesn`t get too dirty and you keep the FK1000P refreshed it might shed contamination as well as mine does...but maybe not.
I do spot-clay as needed at most every wash. I use Sonus SFX clay and their Glyde Lube, and *if I do it correctly* I can "clay my LSP clean" without compromising it much less marring the paint. But I work inch-by-inch and I`m *so* gentle about it...
GG clay is far more aggressive than the Sonus SFX, kinda doubt you`ll get away with it 100%, and FWIW I utterly LOATH using SpeedShine as a clay lube. HATE IT HATE IT HATE IT for that and do NOT like it on FK1000P period (just in case you were gonna use it). I do like it on waxes though, and went through gallons and gallons of it over the years so I`m not really flaming the product.
FWIW, for a QD on FK1000P I`d use either FK425 or QD-strength IUDJ (sure I`ve posted that a million times before
). Some people also like IUDJ as a clay lube but I prefer something that doesn`t leave much of anything behind (the Glyde is kinda "soapy" so I do a quick rinse after using it).
Ideally, the clay glides across the panels on a film of lube, never actually touching the paint. But that`s the theory and the practice doesn`t always work out that way. (Aggressive clays are so abrasive that they mar paint no matter how you use `em.) Eh, I suspect I`m simply off the scale when it comes to gentle claying..and people wonder why it can take me forever to do a small portion of a panel
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