IXLRS- Sorry to be inscrutable, LSP= Last Step Product..i.e., your wax or sealant.
With your plan to keep it a good long time, I`d focus on the long-term. To me, that means not marring the paint (can only correct it so many times, and it`s not all that many) and protecting it. It`s pretty amazing how poorly/well some LSPs do that protecting! If a bird-bomb or bug guts etch your paint, you`ll be sorry, so I`d focus on maximum protection. White looks good as long as it`s clean and shiny and in a few years it`ll be *all* about how well you`ve protected it, not about how swell your chosen wax looks.
Agree. I`m going the 3 bucket route. Trying the Microfiber Madness Incredipad XL and the CG`s microfiber mitt and plenty of high-end microfiber drying towels. Also picked up one of those Adams Sidekick Blaster for those hard to get areas.
I *STRONGLY* encourage you to *NOT* do the glaze/sealant/wax combo thing. Just pick one product (which I`d choose based on functional considerations) and put your efforts into getting your wash squared away so you don`t just mar it up. Seriously, washing a vehicle without marring the paint is extremely challenging and all that "combining different products" is, IMO...[bunk].
Interesting... but I`m going to try the full detail as outlined this time around. In the future I may decide not to glaze or seal. The seal step is using CB Jet Seal - not really a "coating" per say or anything too fancy. The only way to know if my plan works is to give it a try. I`m not using super high priced products but hopefully good products from the likes of Chemical Guys, Griots Garage (bought both their 6" and 3" DA and some of there exterior and interior products), Gyeon, Adams, Meguiars, Zymols, Collinite and now FK1000P.
Much as I can appreciate Klasse Sealant Glaze ("KSG"), which is a sealant rather than a glaze, I don`t think you`ll like it and most people find it less user-friendly than I do. Note that IME it`s only worth using if you`re doing at least 4 layers (spaced 24 hrs. apart). Though it looks fairly decent on white, I`d choose something else for your Macan. (Not hating on it, I still use it on three specific things on one vehicle.)
OK, yeah..[REPEAT FK1000P or Collinite 845 suggestions]. IMO you`re best served by something that, with only one or two coats... lasts a long time, protects the paint from etching, cleans up easily, and is reasonably user-friend
I`ll take you up on that. My plan is if I decide to go with PPF I`ll put the FK1000P on the film by hand. I think this as you say would work really good for the Macan hood that is exposed so much. I`ll mostly likely try one of my other waxes for the rest of the car (got to use them up!)
Be careful with the Meguiar`s Last Touch as it`s caused LSP issues for others, various LSPs don`t last in combination with it.
Good to know. My favorite detailer uses it with Collinite 845 all the time, so I know that combo works well.
I used *gallons* of SpeedShine over the years, and I don`t mean just five or eight, and ended up giving away my last gallon as with all the better alternatives I`d never have used it. Heh heh, nah...not suggesting you toss it, but check out the next paragraph for future consideration
FWIW, and noting that I still have maybe 6-8 gallons of good Quick Detailers on the shelf, ever since I tried Garry Dean`s Infinite Use Detail Juice ("IUDJ", marketed primarily as a rinseless wash), I`ve done best using *that* as my Quick Detailer/Drying Aid/etc. Incredible to me still, never thought I`d even *like* it as I`m not a fan of Rinseless Washes, but it`s *that* good and 100% compatible with FK1000P. Mixed to QD-strength, it simply does everything better than my other QDs. Cheap too.
Trim Dresssings- I never touch the stuff. If I want to overkill it, I seal my trim with Ultima Tire & Trim Guard Plus and just maintain it with either the IUDJ or a Spray Wax like Optimum Car Wax (good UV protection! Great for plastics like lenses and trim) or Meguiar`s D156/Ultimate Quik Wax. That Spray Wax approach works pretty well all by itself, but I`d do the UTTG+ (that long-term perspective again). It`s very user-friendly, but I do prep the surfaces with Griot`s Rubber Prep first.
Only thing I dress is the tires and that`s a personal preference application, not sure what you`d like. Whatever you choose, use it sparingly and buff off any excess with an old MF (microfiber towel) lest you get "sling".
I have Griots Wheel Cleaner and CG`s Diablo Wheel Cleaner. Zymol, CG Speed Shine Dressing
And, while it`s easy for us to spend your money
...the last time I had some PPF done (by a member here), it cost* more than $2K, though I can`t recall just how much after all this time (it was that pricey maybe a decade ago, but if you pick the right/wrong guy, ya get what ya pay for...for better or worse).
I think I`ve picked the right shop, we`ll see....
Oh, and white is a tricky color to inspect in some ways...be sure you have good Inspection Lighting. That`s good, because minor flaws don`t look as awful as on black, but it`s bad too, because it`s hard to see what`s-what when you want to but, sigh,....we all see the flaws clearly *later* when we thought it was OK.
Great point, I was concerned about that also. I picked up the Adams Swirl Finder Flashlight. Perfect!
And finally, some general advice (which you probably don`t need, but anyhow..) : apply Critical Thinking Skills to this Detailing stuff just as you would to some, uhm...serious topic. Don`t worry about overthinking it! E.g., somebody says "[whatever] product is good/bad", OK....WHY?!? Clearly, explicitly, objectively, WHY? Think think think..
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