Questions regarding PA Viking…

[JeffW]

Greetings! I am expecting PA Viking Coat, Viking Spritz and Escalate to arrive today. This is my first experience with a Coating, but this one seems pretty straightforward to install. Since I anticipate using the Spritz frequently (each week, every other week) I’m not too concerned about any disagreements on durability, or should I be?

Questions:
(1) In a review someone complained about durability and a Merchant Rep suggested a ‘decontamination wash’ to restore properties of the coating, and that they highly recommend it. ***what do you think this is referring to? IronX or other treatment? Frankly I’ve never considered anything so strong on top of a sealant.

(2) Glissante shampoo recommended, and why not Optimum Car Wash or any other premium shampoo? If it helps with maintaining the ‘properties of the coating’ I have no problem with getting.

(3) Any other suggestions for install or maintenance?

The car is a new car, has only some hairline scratches on the hood which I’ll hit with some Menzerna 3500 or 2500, depending, then polish the whole car with the Escalate to lay a good foundation. I’m sure I’ll be taking lots of pictures along the way so if I’m not too lazy I’ll post.

Thanks in advanced for any tips or help or even opinions :-)

Jeff

[atgonzales]

You will need 512 to assist you with the angels

[JSFM35X]

I have used Viking coat and I complained about durability.

Let me start out by saying it`s a great product. And the best looking LSP I have used to date. The Viking coat is super easy to apply /use as is the escalate pre coating polish. The coating provides very easy washing. The beading declined Jed for me in about 6 weeks. A topper of Viking spritz or white alabaster was suggested as a maintence spray but back then I was against toppers. Now I have come to the realization that a coatings beading will decline long before the protective qualities are gone so a topper is required to refresh the hydrophilic action. I chose what alabaster. Something designed for a white vehicle and it worked great and was easy to apply. Your Viking spritz will do the same as my white alabaster as far as restoring beading. I used it either as a drying aid or a quick detailer after washing the car. Both worked well and I think I preferred applying to dry just washed paint because once I got the beading back I master blaster it dry. (Blow dry with air).


I didn`t need a decon wash I needed a topper.


Good luck. I`m sure you will be very happy.

[JeffW]

I have used Viking coat and I complained about durability.

Let me start out by saying it`s a great product. And the best looking LSP I have used to date. The Viking coat is super easy to apply /use as is the escalate pre coating polish. The coating provides very easy washing. The beading declined Jed for me in about 6 weeks. A topper of Viking spritz or white alabaster was suggested as a maintence spray but back then I was against toppers. Now I have come to the realization that a coatings beading will decline long before the protective qualities are gone so a topper is required to refresh the hydrophilic action. I chose what alabaster. Something designed for a white vehicle and it worked great and was easy to apply. Your Viking spritz will do the same as my white alabaster as far as restoring beading. I used it either as a drying aid or a quick detailer after washing the car. Both worked well and I think I preferred applying to dry just washed paint because once I got the beading back I master blaster it dry. (Blow dry with air).


I didn`t need a decon wash I needed a topper.


Good luck. I`m sure you will be very happy.

Excellent, JSFM35X, thanks for you feedback.

Frankly, I rarely give the base layer of sealant much opportunity to do it`s job as I typically treat the car to a sealant-spray-spritz after each wash. My real objective is the optics created by the base and spritz and that it`s maintained, as well as beading of course. The PA Viking seems like a great combo for my darkish metallic Jeep.

Previously on other cars I`ve done WG (darkish cars) and UPP (lighter cars) and then use an acrylic spray sealant to build the depth. My cars typically seemed to have that 1/4" clear acrylic layer and I dig that look, and others tend to refer to as `sterile`, I think. (not literally 1/4"). I used HGAS or Z8.

JeffW

[512detail]

You will need 512 to assist you with the angels

I`d consider myself a good source for everything PA except Viking line... I`ll never have those as I live in Texas and I can`t remember the last time I saw snow here or even cold weather for that matter.

does Viking not need invincible primer before it? I didn`t even check

[JeffW]

I`d consider myself a good source for everything PA except Viking line... I`ll never have those as I live in Texas and I can`t remember the last time I saw snow here or even cold weather for that matter.

does Viking not need invincible primer before it? I didn`t even check

What, no Nordic climate extremes in your parts of Texas? :-) Too bad, a lot of snow and freezing cold is a welcome change to extreme heat, IMO.

No, the write up here and on the vendor site makes no mention of Invincible as either a requirement or recommendation. Apparently needed for Cosmic, tho.

JeffW