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  1. #91
    Dannyzz's Avatar
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    I got excited by reading all the good reviews on FK1000 and living in Darwin Australia (Hot and Humid) i wanted to try this go to sealant. My Yellow Muscle car Pings already but here are the results so far. Roof - Applied PS21 cleanser then Autoglym Super Resin Polish waited 48 hours then applied thin FK1000 buffed off then waited 24 hours to do a 2nd coat of FK1000. Result; a beautiful slippery Mirror reflection; but still not done - 48 hours later applied PS21 Wax to one half of the roof and Polish Angel CiterineWax to the other just to see if there was a difference. Yes some more depth and still a beautiful reflection. Hood - Did a compound with Concours Precision and a polish with Adams Finishing Polish (the Adams fought my paint its a (medium grade paint with clear coat) Adams rep advised maybe used to high a setting on my DA 5/6 mmm. Still a nice finish then applied FK1000 after the polish then waited 48 hours this time to apply second coat (i think 24 hours in a warm climate is plenty of time). Result -Mirror reflection and slick to the touch. I had no application or buffing problems (megs yellow foam applicators used and quality MF cloths) temps were around 30 degrees Celsius and humidity probably at 65-70% so not a real humid day. Have not applied a wax to the Hood just yet but will probably use AutoGlym HD wax it has worked really well on this yellow color. The FK1000 is a top liner and i cant wait to get it on the rest of the car including glass. Just to let you know i was hesitant about using it because i am a wax preference guy but wanted to try this product as a much better and longer protection alternative to just wax. The added bonus of FK1000 is its great gloss effect then use a wax to add depth . Well i am not disappointed. 10/10 all round.
    Likes HCF, nickclark08 liked this post

  2. #92

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by EdLancer View Post
    According to this four month trial the FK1000P was the least durable:
    Linking to non-PBMG detailing sites not permitted. Link removed.
    Wonder what they were comparing it against. Also wonder about the testing protocol. Just because it`s the most durable of what *I* have tried that sure doesn`t mean something else isn`t better.

    I *am* a bit surprised that it was beaten in a 4-month test though, it`s always lasted a lot longer than that for me.

  3. #93

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    DannyZZ- Welcome to Autopia!

    Your first post here sure got my attention! Between your environment and your use of FK1000P + AutoGlym SRP I found much of interest. I had just mentioned SRP on another thread here the other day where we were discussing All-in-Ones.

    You and I might be the only guys here who even *have* any SRP! I`ve only done one test panel with that combo so far, but will probably... eventually... use that on my wife`s car.

    I`ll be looking forward to hearing how well the FK1000P lasts for you, though it might be hard to tell once you top it with a wax.

  4. #94

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    EdLancer- Could you give us a Cliff`s Notes Summary of that test? Like just the names of the LSPs that beat out FK1000P?

    Just curious... I can`t really recall any, uhm.. Official Test Results... regarding LSPs that have ever mirrored my first-hand experiences, but I`d still like to know as it does sound interesting for those of us who think the FK1000P is All That.

    There was some Japanese wax a while back that people said was really something, but by the time I looked into it...and got mired in a zillion product choices from the same maker....others had reported that it wasn`t anything great after all.

  5. #95
    Dannyzz's Avatar
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Thanks Accumulator for the Autopia kind welcome this is my first forum and i have really enjoyed reading the posts and I can clearly see why your posts are highly regarded. Re the SRP i have used this lots and I rate it highly as a gloss polish and i think it may not get the Kudos it deserves as the slick higher profile brands take the center stage (maybe its the silicone). Very similar to FK1000 not being appreciated for the great job it does. Maybe if FK1000 was marketed like "Even the Devil banned FK1000 from Hell because he couldn`t apply enough natural Heat to make it Melt" would get some attention LOL.On your post; you prompted me to have a little rethink and on my next panel i will still do the SRP topped with FK1000 and then to a smaller section of the same panel not apply wax and that will be the basis for the comparison. I can then let you guys know how it stands up. In Unity Danny .
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  6. #96

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Mr. A, I`ve got a situation with FK that might interest you - puzzling to me anyway.

    I can get 4-6 months no problem on my car, the metallic silver `15 hyundai elantra I`ve referenced in the past. Paint has been clayed, but never polished. I do have some slight wash marring over the last couple years, but nothing too horrendous the metallic silver doesn`t hide well enough for this DD. I do plan on polishing now that my wash routine is sorted, but thats a topic for another day...

    However - on my wife`s car, 2005 Camry in a dark green metallic, FK won`t stay on it more than a month. I clayed, Iron deconned, compounded and polished the hood a while back, and got it respectable enough considering 12 year old original paint. Final polish was done with HD speed. I waited a day, did another wash with PB SSS, and then applied 2 coats of FK in my normal "apply, wait a week, wash, apply second coat" process. It lasted maybe a month before all beading or indication of protection was gone. The water during the wash was absolutely clinging to the hood like nothing was on there.

    Ok, head scratcher for sure. Maybe the FK didn`t like the Poxy in the HD speed? I then did a "strip wash" to the best of the chemicals I had on hand. PB Bug Squash mixed strong and left to dwell, then washed with the PB SSS shampoo. Clayed again just to make sure the lsp was gone, then washed again to make sure the lube (Blackfire clay lube) wasn`t the issue. I repeated the application process for FK noted above, and got the same results. No more than a month, maybe a month and a half tops.

    I`m not sure what`s going on, but wanted to provide this scenario for your "FK not giving the experiences we all rave about" story collection. I still absolutely love FK, but I am going to have to find something that plays well with the wife`s car until we punt it and get another vehicle.

    Nick

  7. #97

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    DAnnyZZ- I bet you`ll prefer the *look* of the topped FK, but we`ll see...I`m just all about being able to add more FK1000P after a while. And I liked your "Even the Devil.." comment

    NickClark08- That *is* a head-scratcher, huh?!? Somebody else here has the same issue, FK1000P just doesn`t last on one of his vehicles, and we never did figure it out. Some stuff defies explanation, much as I hate to admit it. Two thoughts:

    Maybe it *is* the Speed. Although FK1000P has worked fine for me on top of various things, AFAIK all the underlying products I`ve used are *all synthetic*, and I don`t know if that`s true about the Speed...somehow suspect it`s not, but I just don`t know. Maybe that`s one combo that just doesn`t work.

    -OR-

    The rear bumpercover of my wife`s A8 simply doesn`t "take" LSPs. No matter what I use, it`s dead in short order. Must just be whatever paint they shot it with the last time, no other panel on any of our other vehicles is quite like it, and I have *presumably* the same (re)paint on a few of `em. Hope your situation isn`t that hopeless.

    I`d try redoing with nothing under the FK1000P and see if that matters. And if not, gee...I dunno!

    If that happens and/but you do find something that *does* last on it, I`d sure like to hear about it, if only so I can offer a "if the FK1000P doesn`t work, try..." suggestion should it come up again.
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  8. #98

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    I appreciate the response!

    Further notes:

    I`ve tried Fuzion and PB Nattys Black paste waxes, and the month cut-off seems to be about the same for all. Probably about what you would expect for the PB`s, maybe expected a little longer for the Fuzion. I don`t know.

    I applied some Mequiars Ultimate PW last night, seeing if I get different results. I`ll post back.

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    DAnnyZZ- I bet you`ll prefer the *look* of the topped FK, but we`ll see...I`m just all about being able to add more FK1000P after a while. And I liked your "Even the Devil.." comment

    NickClark08- That *is* a head-scratcher, huh?!? Somebody else here has the same issue, FK1000P just doesn`t last on one of his vehicles, and we never did figure it out. Some stuff defies explanation, much as I hate to admit it. Two thoughts:

    Maybe it *is* the Speed. Although FK1000P has worked fine for me on top of various things, AFAIK all the underlying products I`ve used are *all synthetic*, and I don`t know if that`s true about the Speed...somehow suspect it`s not, but I just don`t know. Maybe that`s one combo that just doesn`t work.

    -OR-

    The rear bumpercover of my wife`s A8 simply doesn`t "take" LSPs. No matter what I use, it`s dead in short order. Must just be whatever paint they shot it with the last time, no other panel on any of our other vehicles is quite like it, and I have *presumably* the same (re)paint on a few of `em. Hope your situation isn`t that hopeless.

    I`d try redoing with nothing under the FK1000P and see if that matters. And if not, gee...I dunno!

    If that happens and/but you do find something that *does* last on it, I`d sure like to hear about it, if only so I can offer a "if the FK1000P doesn`t work, try..." suggestion should it come up again.

  9. #99
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by nickclark08 View Post
    I appreciate the response!

    Further notes:

    I`ve tried Fuzion and PB Nattys Black paste waxes, and the month cut-off seems to be about the same for all. Probably about what you would expect for the PB`s, maybe expected a little longer for the Fuzion. I don`t know.

    I applied some Mequiars Ultimate PW last night, seeing if I get different results. I`ll post back.
    Just a thought. I see you mentioned PB SSS shampoo which is I presume Super Slick and Suds. It appears by the description it has an oil in it that "encapsulates dirt", maybe this oil is leaving a residue behind affecting the FK1000p. My only suggestion would be is to use an IPA mix to strip it down even further and go from there. Again just a thought.
    Dean.

  10. #100
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    nick- I would do a light polish just to abrade any waxes off the paint rather than relying on heavy washes. Maybe quickly polish half of the hood only with something very gentle like a black LC Pad, do an "IPA Wipedown" then apply the FK1000P then compare durability with the other side.

  11. #101
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Hey Accumulator i think you have a Crystal Ball ! Because as i circle around my ride Like a Shark Eyeing off an Unsuspecting Surfer, i am trying to convince myself that my wax adds real value as a topper over the FK1000. I tell myself the wax has to add depth and deepen the color then the Surfer pulls his legs back onto his waxed board and I am not longer sure if what i am "seeing" is actually there. The longer i look at the Hood that currently has 2 coats of FK1000; the more i think that the only place that got FK100 and Wax the (Roof) hasn`t actually added "much," "little", slight", bling to the eye anyway (some fingerprint marks yes!). I still have most of the ute to go but i am fairly certain now that it will be the FK1000 as the LSP after my polish has gone on. Good Call LOL.

    But i do have 2 questions on the FK1000, firstly i see you like additional coats is this because of added protection,gloss,or life span or maybe all 3. I have always thought that diminishing returns probably stops at 2 coats for most products but would love to hear your view on that. Secondly can you safely apply to painted plastic trim such as front and rear body spoilers? Thanks again . Oh the Surfer has drifted away on his waxed board !

  12. #102

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    DannyZZ- Heh heh, I appreciate the candid response about the perceived value/not of topping it. Sometimes we do indeed see what we want to see, and/but sometimes a little nudge lets us see things with Fresh Eyes and occasionally that yields a different opinion.

    On some colors/cars I can imagine it being a good idea...hey, that`s why FK sells their Pink Wax (originally sold specifically as a topper for FK1000P), but 99% of the time IMO topping any sealant with any wax is a waste of resources.

    The Diminishing Returns as related to layering/reapplying, is IME product-dependent. Some specific examples that are kinda extreme:

    - Klasse Sealant Glaze: LAYER THIS ONE! I saw a definite appearance improvement up through 4 coats, could discern the diff easily. After that I saw no further improvement in appearance, perhaps even a slight (VERY slight) decrease. BUT I found that six or more layers were the way to go for durability and protection, and that`s basically what I was after. Doing 1-4 layers never got me the durability/protection I wanted. With just one or two I got better results with Collinite waxes.

    -Collinite 845 and 476S: Despite what somebody "proved" (scare-quotes intentional ) about how it "doesn`t layer" (again, scare-...) I get much better durability and protection with two-three layers. My personal fave approach was 845, then two coats of 476S. Never saw any need to spit-shine (in order to avoid solvent-action).

    -Pinnacle Souveran: I gotta spit-shine this one in some manner or I see no diff, I assume it`s a solvent-action/like-removes-like situation.

    -Malm`s Liquid Wax: Improbably, it seems to layer for me. Would`ve thought it`d do the solvent-action but it seems to really build up on there after all. Can require stripping at some point, just like the "wax build-up" in the floorcare product commercials.

    OK, back on-topic product-wise

    -AutoGlym Super Resin Polish: Hey it "can`t possibly" (again, scare-...) layer since it contains cleaners and *even abrasives*, right?!? Wrong, at least IME. Gotta wait a day or so between applications, gotta apply the subsequent one *VERY* gently or it *will* just clean off the preceding one. But with two (never tried more) I got longer slickness/beading than I did with just one. Maybe that doesn`t prove anything to some folks, but it was enough for me to bother doing it.

    -FK1000P: The more layers the longer it displays indicators of being LSPed, seems cut-and-dried to me. BUT, if I overdo it in the sense of either too many layers or too little time in-between applications, I get nasty pseudo-holograms that can sometimes be a real challenge to get off without resorting to extreme measures (which would require a complete reLSPing). So there *is* a definite chance of solvent-action happening, but not enough of it to actually compromise the previously-applied layers in the functional sense (just cosmetically).

    Goodness, I do go on....
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  13. #103

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    NickClark08- MAYBE it is the shampoo, or maybe it`s just one of those paints where everything lasts a relatively short, and uniform, length of time (as with the A8 bumpercover). FWIW, using Griot`s and 3D Pink on FK1000P I can use a pretty strong mix (strong enough to clean effectively) without any LSP stripping.

  14. #104
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Just spent most of my Sunday finishing off the compounding and did a finish polish then got to do one side of the Ute with SRP. I applied a very light coat of SRP probably the lightest i have ever done just to see if the extra light approach made any difference. When i polished off it rewarded me with a superb glow proving the point of how much our brain interferes with what actually works ! Next the follow up with the FK1000 as the final topper (LOL) in a few days time.

    Thanks for sharing what you have experienced with the multiple coats very interesting. On a another note i cant believe how hydrophobic the FK1000 is if were any better the water would evaporate before it hit the paint. Just wondering if the FK1000 is OK for painted trim haven`t tried there yet ?

  15. #105

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Thanks partially to those here with nicknames starting with A and ending in R, I`m going to be an FK1000p beginner in a week or so. . Wish me luck
    Likes nickclark08 liked this post

 

 
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