Page 3 of 16 FirstFirst 12345678910111213141516 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 233
  1. #31
    Tc99m's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Newnan, GA
    Posts
    198
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by `PRND[S
    ;2113069`]My recommendation is a thin, round foam applicator. Place it in the tin and give it a 90 degree twist with just a little bit of pressure to pick up a small amount of FK1000P, and then use that to cover an entire panel.

    After you do this a few times, the applicator will start to get saturated and you won`t have to replenish it as much. When you`re done, store the applicator in the tin.

    If you use more than what looks like a greasy palm print, you`ve used too much.
    ^ This about sums it up.

  2. #32

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    79,963
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Regulars here have probably heard all this from me before, and if I had All The Answers people wouldn`t keep asking the same "how do I make this application process go easier?!?" all the time! But anyhoo, here I go again:

    I too use the regular round foam applicators. When I do it, I get a minimal amount on the applicator, fold it in half and rub the "application/loaded" side of it together so the minimal amount of product gets uniformly distributed on the face of the applicator, then...very important... I try to scrape as much product back out of the applicator (on the edge of the tin) as I can.

    No matter how diligently I do the above, I always get more product transferred to the applicator than I need, but oh well, that`s usually enough to do a rather large area, and I try to transfer a minimal amount of fresh product when I reload the applicator, always trying to scrape out any excess on the edge of the tin`s rim. I DO NOT rub the applicator together aggressively, and I sure don`t wipe it across the product in the tin with any more force than I need to transfer a minimal amount of product to the foam. I think of it as wanting the product to be "on" the foam rather than "in"/saturating it and if I only get enough to do part of a panel then I got it right.

    I never give any thought to how firmly I`m pressing when I apply, though I guess I try to not overdo it in case some contamination somehow gets on there. I go over the same area a few times to ensure that I get a uniform application since there`s so little product being used. I usually go in overlapping circles, only doing straight-line when the area calls for that (e.g., thin pillars).

    I suppose that practice/experience factors in...I`ve been aiming for "so thin I can`t really see it" with all my LSPs for decades so I oughta be pretty dialed-in by now. I go by feel rather than visual cues; the applicator glides over (re)LSPed areas more readily than it does over the areas I haven`t done yet.

    For easier buff-off, try fogging the surface with your breath. This can also make it easier to notice skipped areas.

    End-of-process test- If I can squeeze an appreciable amount of product out of the applicator at the end of the job, then I had it loaded with *WAY* too much product.

    Use however many buff-off MFs as *you* need. Just because I can do a large vehicle with only one (well, at least sometimes..) that doesn`t mean much of anything relative to anybody else.

    I don`t leave the applicator in the tin for very long these days. I`ve found that it can apparently (and only sometimes) soak up additional product, which is the last thing I want, and if I leave the applicator in there long enough (I can go many months between applications) the foam sometimes deteriorates a little bit (maybe it`s not real deterioration but rather just that soaking up additional product, but whatever happens I don`t like it).

    I dunno...I just don`t get it..and please don`t take that as some kind of put-down. I`ve used "hard to buff off" LSPs since forever, and I`ve simply never experienced that other than when I missed an area done with M16...now *that* will take a bit of effort after a few weeks! Heh heh, the ladies who intro`ed me to M16 back in the day said how *EASY* it was compared to Simonize, they thought it was some miracle product with regard to user-friendliness! And M16 is a lot less forgiving than FK1000P. Gee, wonder if Floyd had *that* in mind too when he came up with the stuff...
    Likes slippy liked this post

  3. #33
    ariezhai5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    22
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    I think FK is easy to remove if applying it thin, do you consider to use some DA polisher after applying by hand? I`ll give it try next after washing my car

    Sent from my Grand2 using Tapatalk

  4. #34

    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Central Iowa
    Posts
    20
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Thanks Accumulator and PRND[S, really useful tips on applying thin. Its good to know you do overlapping circles with no solvent issues Accumulator.

    Years ago I used some Nufinish, now that stuff is hard to buff off!

  5. #35
    skibik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NW Minnesota
    Posts
    897
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Thanks for the lesson Accumulator. I am going to have to give that a try. It is the end of June and car needs protection bad. I guess my applications go far beyond thick seeing your procedure. I guess I don`t need to swirl the applicator around in the tin 3 or 4 times every half panel then, huh!
    Dean.

  6. #36
    skibik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NW Minnesota
    Posts
    897
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Mic575 View Post
    Thanks Accumulator and PRND[S, really useful tips on applying thin. Its good to know you do overlapping circles with no solvent issues Accumulator.

    Years ago I used some Nufinish, now that stuff is hard to buff off!
    If it wasn`t for finding this site I would still be using NuFinish and only remember having trouble removing it when I did it in direct sunlight(no garage at that time to work in). Otherwise I liked that stuff for how easy it went on and came off. After some thought I kind of wish I wouldn`t have found this site and got the detailing bug. I would have one polish, one wax(maybe two) a handful of towels(cotton, the old school stuff), one car wash soap, and wax twice a year and maybe polish once in the time I own the car. All products could be found at the local hardware or auto parts store and no special ordering.

    The best stuff I ever used for ease of removal was AutoFom. It was kind of left an oily film that took extra cloths to buff off.
    Dean.

  7. #37

    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Central Iowa
    Posts
    20
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by skibik View Post
    If it wasn`t for finding this site I would still be using NuFinish and only remember having trouble removing it when I did it in direct sunlight(no garage at that time to work in). Otherwise I liked that stuff for how easy it went on and came off. After some thought I kind of wish I wouldn`t have found this site and got the detailing bug. I would have one polish, one wax(maybe two) a handful of towels(cotton, the old school stuff), one car wash soap, and wax twice a year and maybe polish once in the time I own the car. All products could be found at the local hardware or auto parts store and no special ordering.

    The best stuff I ever used for ease of removal was AutoFom. It was kind of left an oily film that took extra cloths to buff off.
    Back when life was simple is what you`re saying , bet you only had one bucket too. I used the Nufinish liquid and I think I must have put it on like I was frosting a cake. I think that this is not the approach that Accumulator is getting at here

  8. #38
    skibik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NW Minnesota
    Posts
    897
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Mic575 View Post
    Back when life was simple is what you`re saying , bet you only had one bucket too. I used the Nufinish liquid and I think I must have put it on like I was frosting a cake. I think that this is not the approach that Accumulator is getting at here
    Yes! I may have two buckets now, and have tried the two bucket method, but back to one when I hand wash. It might be just me but I don`t see the benefit of using two and yes I have done the research.

    I laughed when you mentioned "putting it on like frosting a cake". That brought me back to my teen years helping Dad wax his new Chevette and using the TW Hardshell, liquid even and putting that on and when it dried actually looked like we had frosted the car. LOL!
    Dean.

  9. #39

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    79,963
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    As a kid I over-applied M07...no big problem, just took forever to buff off/out of the ss lacquer of the day. But then I went to wax over it, and !uh-oh! over-applying M16 was a quick lesson in What Not To Do.

    Wonder if any Marine places sell the FK...and remember that brink-and-mortar Autobody/paint supply places often sell decent detailing supplies (along with sometimes OK/not off-brands).

    Some guys here have actually done OK with NuFinish...IIRC they use it for non-critical areas on customers` vehicles that aren`t headed for the how circuit.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mic575
    Its good to know you do overlapping circles with no solvent issues Accumulator.
    When I *did* get the solvent-action issues (well, I assume that`s what caused the pseudo-holograms) I figure it was from trying to layer too much/soon. I had the same issues on sections where I did/not use circles/straight lines, didn`t seem to matter.

    Some people make a big deal out of the "wax in straight lines!" idea, but that flies in the face of how well LSPing works via RO/DA. Speaking of which...

    Time expenditure-wise, I probably LSP a lot faster if I just do it by hand (get out polisher, set up, etc. etc. compared to just grab applicator and go) and I just can`t do the minimal product/thin application stuff as well. Do (did?) like applying Collinite/M16 by machine though...and once it`s on there...

    Quote Originally Posted by ariezhai5
    ...do you consider to use some DA polisher after applying by hand?
    I might be the only guy here who buffs off LSP residue with a machine on a remotely regular basis...and I don`t do it all the time. No matter how I do it, I always have to do some by-hand buffing too, not just for tight spots but also to get that last 1% of product off and ensure a perfectly clear buff-off. Whichever I do first, I gotta do the other as a follow-up, so I usually use the machine first and then go over it again (fogging with my breath) by hand.

    I`ve used plush and suede-style/no-nap MF bonnets and other than the latter being *utterly* unforgiving if some abrasive contamination gets caught in `em, I found no appreciable diffs. (The argument that "plush MF bonnets pull the wax off! Gotta use the suede-style ones to avoid that!" did NOT prove true IME.)

    If you use a wool for the backing pad (that the MF bonnet(s) fit over), I would *NOT* turn the bonnets inside-out to get a second time`s use out of them lest some wool get transferred and cause marring. For that matter, I don`t do it period because I like using the bonnets over fairly firm/large-pore cutting pads and I don`t want their (foam) material getting transferred either. I usually use the Meguiar`s burgundy cutting pads with 5-6" bonnets and LC yellow cutting pads with 4" ones. After a while the backing pads compress and IMO that`s the time to get new ones. The only time I used a pad that was supposedly specific to this task it did NOT work well at all; the bonnet slipped around way too much to be effective (you need a pretty tight fit).

    Often, the outer edges of the bonnets get loaded with product residue *MUCH* sooner than the rest and IMO you`ll need more bonnets than you`d expect, even if you put LSPs on as thinly as I do. Maybe a lot more.

    While I do think it takes more time, and yields only *VERY* minor appearance benefits (and not always..), doing this stuff by machine is a very different motion and was the only way I could do such stuff when I had shoulder issues. And it`s an excuse to run those Cyclos I like so much

  10. #40

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    56
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    I have done some searching about how exactly you are suppose to clean the buff off microfibre cloths? I tried a typical hot soak with soap powder but it doesn`t get all the wax off resulting in a dry cloth that is a bit hard & may cause swirl, aswell probably won`t absorb well when buffing as it still has wax on it.

    I then tried wax & grease remover a few times by hand which gets most of the wax out. Then let the hydrocarbons evaporate completely & then a soapy wash. After that the cloth is very clean with no smell & buffs off the wax well.

  11. #41

    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Southwestern PA
    Posts
    2,353
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    After buffing off FK1000 I just soak the towels in Snappy Pad cleaner and then wash as normal with 3D Towel Kleen. Never had a problem getting the towels like new.

    3D Towel Kleen


    http://www.autopia-carcare.com/snappy-clean-powder.html#.WVt6hemQxaQ








    "If your Personal Beliefs deny what`s objectively true about the world, then they`re more accurately called Personal Delusions" Neil deGrasse Tyson
    Likes VitreousHumor liked this post

  12. #42
    NLove's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts
    126
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    I just picked up a tin of FK1000p. I can`t wait to try it.

  13. #43
    silverfox's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    524
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Apply very very very thin. You should have almost nothing to wipe off.
    Likes pwaug, VitreousHumor liked this post

  14. #44

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    79,963
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    I`ve never had *any* issues with FK1000P buffing residue on my MFs, it launders out just fine. I *do* spot-treat all my MFs with an APC though, so that might factor is.

    One laundering challenge that does take a bit of doing is when I *apply* FK1000P via MF. Once it dries on that MF it`s *on there* so I have to APC-soak and scrub with a Denture Brush. Even then I sometimes see evidence that the FK1000P is still there (hydrophobic areas on that MF).

    BUT, I`ve *never* had dried FK1000P mar paint, not once. I`ve even had an "oops!" or two where I grabbed the wrong applicator/MF and thought I probably did some damage because of dried residue from previously applying with that one, but nope, no problems at all. But I *do* use that ultra-thin approach so my idea of "contaminated with dried product" might be different from somebody else`s in the matter-of-degree sense. And speaking of which...

    Manix- If you have that much LSP buff-off residue in your MFs, heh heh...IMO you might be utterly off-the-scale with regard to "too thick", like...I can`t *imagine*. I mean..I don`t get that problem when I *apply* via a MF and let it dry on there. When I FK1000P something big (Tahoe/Suburban-size) the buff-off MFs (note plural, despite my thin applications; I generally use small MFs) are not visibly contaminated with LSP residue, at least not to an obvious extent. Have to keep my MFs straight since the used ones don`t look soiled (that`s how I`ve had the "oops!")

    Plus, it sounds like [whatever detergent] you`re using isn`t up to the job. The YMMV! thing *really* applies on this one, like you can`t believe...the diffs people experience are simply astounding...so/and you gotta find what works for *you*. Recently I was amazed by how well the Chemical Guys MF Detergent works, never thought to try any until I saw it on sale. Works MUCH better than I`d expected and I can be a MF Detergent Snob.

    Aw gee, the above isn`t expressed very well, sounds like a scolding...sorry, don`t mean it that way. Heh heh, the thought occurs that no matter *how much* of a hassle the thin applications are, that ordeal has gotta be easier than what you`re going through by putting it on thicker. REALLY looking forward to hearing how it all goes if/when you do get it on there really thin...gee, you may even prove me wrong! (Nah, don`t expect that, but ya never know...)

  15. #45

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    56
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by silverfox View Post
    Apply very very very thin. You should have almost nothing to wipe off.
    I have a hard time getting it thin as I can`t seem to be sure if the area is covered if too thin, so I tend to apply it thick. I see now why people say this one can will last 10yrs. amazing that such a thin film can add protection.
    However I`m yet to see the real world performance of FK1000p, only time will tell.

 

 
Page 3 of 16 FirstFirst 12345678910111213141516 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Beginner Questions
    By Big G in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-16-2017, 12:54 PM
  2. Questions from a beginner
    By Mudd in forum Auto Detailing 101
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 11-27-2012, 04:38 PM
  3. Beginner with a couple questions
    By rotax in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 03-28-2010, 09:36 AM
  4. A couple questions for a beginner
    By Ceezer in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 11-05-2006, 01:05 PM
  5. Some questions from a beginner
    By Wicho in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-25-2004, 06:24 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •