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  1. #346

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Added the second coat to the wife’s van. It really looks better than just the one. I think this will be the coating of choice for this vehicle until it goes away. FK is so easy to work with.

    On a a side note- McKee’s Trademark Extender Spray Wax seems to compliment it very well. Its all synthetic and enhances the smooth surface.

    Acummulator.- thanks for the tip of just freshening up certain areas on occasion with FK. Never really though of that. Always added a full coat to everything. I can see me reapplying it on the back and lower panels on occasion. The flat back of this van get plastered with junk.

  2. #347

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Ochnob- Sure enjoyed reading your last post, and I agree that two generally looks a bit better than one. I didn`t notice more really doing much of anything additional when I got 4 on the `03 Audi, just lasted longer.

    Glad you found a good complimentary SprayWax. Good that it`s synthetic (the name initially had me wondering until I read your next sentence), oughta be fine.

    And yeah...I too deal with that "trailing surfaces" thing where they take a lot of abuse. Note that I hadn`t redone the *entire* Tahoe for *ages* until earlier this year, just did whatever areas showed minor changes in the beading. Eh, less-than-Autopian I`m sure, but it works fine for me.
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  3. #348

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Just wanted to give you guys a quick update. Over the last two weeks I was able to get two coats of the FK on my wifes tahoe. It seemed like with each coat my technique most have improved because it seemed to get a little easier. I was a little unsure of the use the red but over all was really pleased with the way that it turned out. The FK highlights the metal flake more and the Megs highlights the darker peal more. Here is a quick pic, let me know what you guys think.

    Please ignore the lack of product on the tires and running boards!
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  4. #349

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    JRuss- So glad the FK is working out for you! Yeah, on some paints it does really bring out the flake nicely, and yeah#2 between your ever-improving technique and the benefits of "wax-on-wax" applications, it can indeed seem easier as you go (something to keep in mind there; get a refresher coat on it before it`s really necessary).

    What do you plan to use on the black parts of the running boards? It`d be great if you used something that`ll last like the FK1000P does.

  5. #350
    SUPER MODERATOR GearHead_1's Avatar
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    ...Yeah, on some paints it does really bring out the flake nicely...
    I’m not discounting the claim that you have seen this result but I’m interested in which metal flake colors “some paints” might be? I believe FK1000 offers superior protection to many sealants on the market. That said, IME it definitely mutes the flake on light colored pearl finishes (e.g. Ford’s White Platinum) and for that matter my results on Ford’s Ruby Red was a bit less than I’d hoped. Several products that I have used simply just knock your eyes out when used on the Ruby, Polish Angel’s Viking is outstanding.

    The FK left me underwhelmed on the Ruby but not nearly so much as on the Platinum. Owning 3 vehicles with the White Platinum paint over the past few years has really put the brakes on me using this product as an LSP on my vehicles. Used some FK on a Race Red truck about a month ago. A friend wanted solid winter protection, it looked very nice. I think it works well on solid colors but wouldn’t recommended it on pearls. I don’t believe metal flake is FK’s strong suit. Probably just me.
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  6. #351

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Accumulator - On the running boards I typically use back to black...I have never really been that impressed with its overall results and have consider trying Adams VRT. Any Suggestions?

    GearHead_1 - I am by no means and can only speak to what I have experience with both of vehicles. On the tahoe, I would consider it really close to the Ford Ruby red pearl. The Metal flake that it brought out on this vehicle was itself is a red metal flake that is lighter than the bc/cc color (as is most) . When using a Megs ultimate paste wax earlier this year it seemed to bring out the pearl (to my eyes) high lighting an almost purple hue making it appear more maroon. I liked the depth of paint it gave the vehicle but at 10-20 ft away you would loose the vision of the pearl & metal flake making the color look flatter. With the FK it seems brighter and at 10-20 ft away you can see both the pearl & metal flake on the body lines. I also used it on my metallic grey charger earlier this month as well. On this darker color it did the same. Over it lost the depth up close but increased the visual brightness of the metallic from a distance. Working in a body shop for a number of years doing finish work I always inspect things from all angles (its a curse!) and this was my observation. I plan on doing a friends `14 Chervrolet Silvarado this weekend that is the older creamish pearl white. I will share the results with that vehicle as well, as it will be my first light color.
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  7. #352

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    GearHead_1- That`s a good point about the type/color of the flake, and I suppose individual preferences might factor in too. I first noticed the "enahanced flake" effect on GM Granite Metallic (metallic black with multi-colored flake..maybe blue and gold, but I can now only barely remember). Its flake was really *popping* with the FK compared to how it was with Collinite 476S and/or 845, so much so that I initially wasn`t sure I liked it as it completely changed how the thing looked to me. I initially attributed it to the "sealant"(FK) vs. "wax"(Collinite) even though the latter isn`t "all-wax" AFAIK.

    On the `93 Audi`s Mica Blue Metallic (blue pearl but with lots of colored metalflake too), the FK did the exact same thing and *really* shows off its weird blueish/multi-colored flake. It`s one of those early OEM "pearlcoats"..cool stuff and different from their later Ming Blue. Real PIA to match, especially after 25+ years of aging.

    The compromised areas where it`s worn through the clear/metallic layer/pearl layers make for some odd-looking stuff, really different from any other paint I`ve ever seen.

    Next time I have decent lighting I`ll be staring at that Audi like a weirdo trying to see just what the flake is, never really took note of it before But it *is* a "colored" flake that`s not just the usual "whatever it is that turns light gray into silver" if that makes sense.

    It does *NOT* do that so much with the Pewter Metallic Tahoe, rather on that silvery color it just looks like "sealant on silver", ho-hum nothing special to see here, just a shiny, nicely waxed SUV. When I do the silver Audis with it I expect they`ll just look "nice but not special" too. That`s how it looks on the Crown Vic`s Smokestone Metallic, although it does do the "color-shift" thing a bit more dramatically (probably just the overall detail).

    I somehow thought that I might see the Red of JRuss`s truck the way *he* sees it. So much eye-of-beholder stuff...

    JRuss- When *NOTHING* except a Dressing-type approach will work, I use AutoGlym`s Bumper Care, which I believe to be a genuinely unique product of its type and well-suited to running boards (if not much else IMO but that`s just me and I generally hate Exterior Rubber/Vinyl Dressings and basically never use them).

    But unless I have to resort to that, I scrub up the surface with Griot`s Rubber Prep (works great on hard plastics too) and then seal it with Ultima Tire and Trim Guard Plus. The current version isn`t quite as nice as the original solvent-based stuff, but it still beats the Dressing (AKA "slime" ) approach IMO.
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  8. #353

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    I dont think the picture really does any justice to the final look of the vehicle. Heck even my wife noticed the difference. I will see if I cant get a better pic for you guys. I am really interested to see what effect it will have on the pearl white metallic that I will be doing this weekend.

    Thanks for the suggestion. I to dislike having to deal with the slime...so much so I put it off
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  9. #354

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    JRuss- The "blind test using spouse" is pretty good, huh? Accumulatorette spots things far more often than I would`ve expected.

    I can never see much of anything in internet-quality photos...to me stuff looks "good" or "not" and it`s pretty much that simple. Hence my general lack of "oooh, wow that looks great!" comments on all the Shiny Car Pics posted here Unless I see something in person, under the right conditions, well...

    I too just dislike using the Slim Products. I simply *HATE* dressing tires for that reason and would go nuts had I not found an applicator/process that I`m kinda, sorta, almost OK with. The (utterly trashed) satin black aluminum running boards of the Beater Tahoe (and their plastic step-pads) are the only things other than tires that I slime, and I only do that because nothing except refinishing will make them truly decent but the Slime hides a multitude of sins well enough for a Beater.

  10. #355

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Long time lurker here, given i live in southern arizona FK1000 was always on my radar as a must have product, finally got around to getting the massive tin of it. Hasnt gotten crazy hot just yet so ill update if i can remember, my car lives outdoors, though covered...summer is coming.

    My only problem is the gloss levels of FK1000 isnt all that great, i top with turtle wax ice spray wax and it really pops.

    I was curious if anyone else here uses FK and sees temps over 105 degrees, will this stuff last through summer? My big fear is monsoon season, with the temps able to climb up to 120, dust storms, and rain. Last year i had to clay off all the sand gains that were melted into my clear coat.

    Anyway thanks for this thread. FK is going to be my base coat for summer for sure. I might stick to something cheap like turtle wax ice paste for our lovely falls/winter/springs as it super cheap, and leaves a wonderful mirror finish that seems to last well over a month.

    Any thoughts on just how durable FK is in insane heat? or should i try to wax another layer on in a few weeks when temps are likely to be 105-110...which is not fun. Weve been getting lucky with temps lately and i have two solid coats of FK on less than a month old, and a shell of turtle ice spray about two weeks old...detail sprays still giving that freshly waxes mirror finish. Been waxing like hell while the temps are reasonable...i do not want to pull out a handful of sand from my clearcoat again this summer.

  11. #356

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    I just ordered a tin as well. I`ve never tried it before. I ordered some Bead Maker too. I wonder how that works with Fk1000p?

  12. #357

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    crunchyblack- Welcome to Autopia!

    I hope the FK works out for you, ya just never know! I had a lot of training in AZ during the summer, and those are some severe conditions all right.

    Experiences seem to vary regarding how it holds up to those conditions, a true case of "your mileage may vary". Either way, I hope you report back so we have more data to consider. FWIW, another Autopian in AZ found that Collinite wax (I forget whether it was their 845, 476S, or 915) lasted longer, which *really* surprised me since my experiences here in OH were the exact opposite.

    Interesting that you didn`t find the gloss satisfactory. I assume you gave it a day or so to cure (or whatever it does) as many of us find it often looks a bit better a while after application. Glad the TW sorted that out, maybe if you continue to use that, say....as a Drying Aid when you wash...it`ll also help with the durability by providing an additional sacrificial layer.

    It`s great to know that the TW Ice works fine on top of it, thanks for mentioning that. I`d bet that the TW Ice *won`t* cause any issues with subsequent applications of the FK, but I guess you never know until you try so fingers crossed that it works OK for you.

    You might also give thought to FK425, a QD that`s designed to be used with the FK1000P.

    EXPDetailing- I dunno from the Bead Maker (and I find the FK1000P`s beading just fine by itself), but I bet *somebody* here has tried it over the FK. FK1000P is fairly tough stuff so I kinda doubt there`ll be a problem, but I`d do a test spot just to be on the safe side. I hope you too are happy with the FK1000P, I`m such a fanboy for the stuff that I almost feel guilty when somebody`s disappointed with it

  13. #358

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    I find that after 24hrs or so, maybe 2 days, the FK really sits like a coat of glass. Since i have a reasonable about of black trim i don`t want to fade and crack i had to look to something else to use. Grabbed a cheapo turtle wax ice spray from walmart, saw a few youtube longer term tests and the stuff held up pretty well so why not. That`s when my gloss opinion was formed, once i start one thing leads to another and the trim and all the surfaces are now spray waxed but have an insane mirror finish rather than a layer of glass look. Maybe the ice is reacting well to FK, unsure on that. I was really impressed.

    Really have no need for the bead effect, TBH if i lived somewhere with weekly rain id rather have sheeting than beading, i know beading = water marks when the car is standing.

    Since i clayed the car end of feb i`ve been FK`ing it and the surfaces are slick and smooth no grit on the surface....granted its not been all that hot, only a few days around 100. Granted every morning my car is coated in a thin layer of talc like dust, which blows off when i drive.

    Will say that i feel like i`m on to something with this cheap ice spray wax and FK, they seem to pair together nice on a silver car. FK looks great on its own buy you`ll do one of those "oooh i see" after a quick ice wax mist and wipe down (granted to allow proper time for FK to set and cure) Not going for anything other than good gloss and solid high heat protection.

  14. #359

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    crunchyblack- Ah, so your FK *did* improve a bit over a few days, good. I know exactly what you mean about the "dust blowing off", I was astounded when my dusty-from-winter storage cars wearing it self-cleaned when I drove them. This year I just blew the `93 Audi off with the compressor and while it does need a real wash only an Autopian would notice.

    Heh heh, you`ve *ALMOST* tempted me into considering the TW Ice since you like how it works with the FK on silver Almost, as I simply must use up the [stuff] I`ve already, uhm...accumulated!

    Using FK1000P on trim is something I put in the "don`t try this at home, kids!" category. I`ve done it. It *usually* worked OK, at least *IF I DID IT RIGHT*. But I see zero reason to go that route with all the other products on the market. From OCW to D156/UQW to my current fave Sonus Tire & Trim Guard Plus, there are much better options IMO.

    Current Trim Regimen: Prep with Griot`s Rubber Prep (whether the trim is rubber or not), treat with Sonus TTG+, maintain with a spraywax, QD, or RW.

  15. #360

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    crunchyblack- Ah, so your FK *did* improve a bit over a few days, good. I know exactly what you mean about the "dust blowing off", I was astounded when my dusty-from-winter storage cars wearing it self-cleaned when I drove them. This year I just blew the `93 Audi off with the compressor and while it does need a real wash only an Autopian would notice.

    Heh heh, you`ve *ALMOST* tempted me into considering the TW Ice since you like how it works with the FK on silver Almost, as I simply must use up the [stuff] I`ve already, uhm...accumulated!

    Using FK1000P on trim is something I put in the "don`t try this at home, kids!" category. I`ve done it. It *usually* worked OK, at least *IF I DID IT RIGHT*. But I see zero reason to go that route with all the other products on the market. From OCW to D156/UQW to my current fave Sonus Tire & Trim Guard Plus, there are much better options IMO.

    Current Trim Regimen: Prep with Griot`s Rubber Prep (whether the trim is rubber or not), treat with Sonus TTG+, maintain with a spraywax, QD, or RW.

    Ok, so the turtle wax ice was for the black trim, and it does work great on black trim, since i have self control issues black trim became the whole car.

    I get awesome gloss off my 303 speed detailer, and im not sure the point of back to back applying two extremely durable products. Ice will be my winter product, i got the paste as well.

    You really notice FK`s gloss is lacking after applying something on top of it, its like FK adds that glass layer then it gets polished and more reflective with detailer (or the spray wax)

    at $7.99 at any walmart its a solid buy for plastic trim, theres also a youtube video where a guy put like 30 products on a panel and left it out until they all failed, the ice lasted longer than most non ceramics, which is why i snagged it.

    Either way 303 speed detailer, turtle wax ice spray wax, and im sure many other detailers and quick spray waxes will add a very nice mirror reflectiveness to the already shiny glass look FK adds. Pretty sure most of what ive seen on ice is that it does streak, on my silver car i dont see any issues but if your rocking a black car maybe stick with FK alone and hit it with a good detail spray after a few days.

    I highly suggest experimenting with detail sprays/spray waxes after letting FK cure a few days, getting that glass coating look with a mirror finish is addicting. Remember youve got durability already so go for max gloss.

 

 
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