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  1. #16

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    06vrss- IIRC, people have said it works fine, at least over Black Hole.

    skibik- No added durability from the third coat in your experience? Not arguing, just curious.

    Yeah, the Official Line is that you can layer it promptly and Ketch always said I was doing it wrong if I had any issues with that. But some of his suggestions Re tweaking my technique weren`t gonna happen so I just wait.

    And yeah#2, I strongly suspect you`re putting it on too thick if buffing off isn`t really REALLY easy. OK, not Souveran-easy, but it shouldn`t even get your attention. FWIW, I always fog the surface with my breath while buffing it off...do that with pretty much every LSP I use and IMO it makes things even easier.

    nickclark08- Heh heh...yeah, "vocal" rather than "authoritative"

    And as I try to emphasize, I DID NOT expect to be impressed with the stuff; my sample tin sat unused for years before I finally tried it, and by then it was awfully hard/dried-out (talk about a PIA LSP to use), so for it to make such a positive impression on me is a genuine testament to how great the stuff is. I mean, sheesh...between 476S and KSG I was all set on my daily-driver LSPs, or so I thought.

  2. #17
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Accumulator, as for the 3rd coat I had seen no extended durability. It was my winter LSP for the Camaro(drive it year `round) put it on in September and it would last I guess about 4 to 5 months. I can`t say is there was much protection left at 5 months even though it seemed to bead was likely just the clear coat. To help it along when I would run it through the touch-less car wash I would add the wax cycle after a few months in to the winter whether it helped or not I don`t know. If memory serves correct I did the 3rd coat try the second winter I had the car so I only had 1 winter before that to compare it to and 1 winter after. I never used it last winter as I kind of missed my warm days(weekend) in the fall to apply it and after the previous uses of being so hard to work with I gave up on it. I even apply it a few times with my GG 6" with success but still I know I was applying it to thick. To use the machine I used a piece of plastic carved from an ice cream pail(I had no plastic knifes handy) and would scrape a ribbon from the can and smear it on a wax pad and go to town. I know now that I applied to often to the pad, that and if you wait too long it ends up like the old days as a kid trying to remove the old Turtle Wax Hard Shell paste.

    Last summer I began using up some of the BFCS that I acquired and since I missed my opportunity with the FK this last fall I applied a couple coats of the BF but it didn`t make it two months into the winter.
    Dean.

  3. #18

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    skibik- Thanks for taking the time/effort to explain it so well! I`m struck by:

    -how it just doesn`t last for you the way it does for me
    -that the third coat didn`t add a few extra months
    -that it`s that tough to transfer from the tin to the pad
    -that it`s so hard to buff off

    Wonder whether the touchless factors in big-time and/or whether applying a thickish coat by machine makes for more solvent-action. I`m just *SOOO* extreme about the "thin application, applied very gently" thing that it might make *me* the wildcard here.

    I even added a *fourth* coat of it to some wheels and the `93 Audi last time, and I sure don`t do this stuff unless there`s a big payoff

    That comparison to TW..in my case it was the orig. Simonize...makes me think that *something`s* haywire though...I`ll apply to a whole large vehicle, let it sit for a few hours if something comes up, and it buffs right off just *that* easily.

    Well...more proof of how !YMMV! always applies, huh?!?

  4. #19
    skibik's Avatar
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    I thought getting the amount of time out of the protection to me for the area I live in was quite impressive. I still had a little bit of beading left in February or March but nothing like it was when freshly applied. The paint surely didn`t feel as smooth or slick either so I just took it to be about the end of the protection. I also attribute this to the fact I live in northern Minnesota where every time it snows we lay down salt. My car usually turns white and it is on it for up to a few weeks so that in itself I would guess takes a toll on longevity.

    I did figure out the last time I used it that of course I was putting it on a little thick but I was also waiting too long before removing it. I wasn`t getting it the point it was flashing off or just after it hazed over. I woulf wait until it was completely hazed and that I think is why it was a bear to get off.

    I had the same problem with Wolfgang Fuzion. I applied it I don`t think i read the instructions completely. I did apply thin but instead of doing a panel at a time I did like half the car. Maybe my idea of thin maybe wasn`t thin but that stuff is not friendly at all when left on for too long either.
    Dean.
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  5. #20

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    skibik- Yeah, your winters are similar to ours, and my vehicles regularly get so nasty that you genuinely can`t tell what color they are. Takes well over an hour to clean the salt off the undercarriage...

    I dunno about FK1000P (or any other LSP I`ve ever used) being tough to buff off because it sat so long. If I can let it go for hours with no problem..and I do mean *hours*...then I dunno why just the time it takes to do the rest of the vehicle would be a problem.

    Maybe it *does* all relate to "how thin is thin?" Even on dark colors, you sure can`t readily see my applications before I buff them off, I never apply LSPs of any kind so thick that they`re obviously visible in the sense of "look at the dried wax on that hood". The average layman would ask "what wax? where?.."

    I even let Souveran sit until I`ve done the whole vehicle most of the time, get a bit more durability that way.

    EDIT: Eh, the above sorta sounds like a lecture, and I don`t mean it that way. Sounds like you`re still getting good results with it, and making the application a huge PIA could be a lousy trade-off for a little better durability, huh?

  6. #21
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Doesn`t sound like a lecture at all. I think my problem all stems from laying anything I use on way too thick, two to three times more than i should. I grew up in the 70`s helping Dad wax his car with that Turtle Wax paste. We put that on and remember when it dried the car was white. If you have ever laid on a heavy layer of that stuff on the whole car, and let it dry before wiping you know what I am talking about on something being tough to remove. The FK for me wasn`t quite that bad to remove but kind of reminds me of those days of Turtle Wax.

    It is hard to get away from my thoughts of "if a little is good a lot is better" kind of mentality. It doesn`t help having enough to do my car 30 times over and would rather use it than throw it out. Example of usage, the can of FK1000p, if memory serves correct, is close to half gone. By memory I used it in the fall for winter protection 3 times I believe and I think for 2 of the spring waxes, all of which were 2 coats and at least one of those was a 3 coat application. If I out it on like I should I think as many times as I used it I should have used half of what I have.

    I will say though it is a good wax I just need to learn how to use it.
    Dean.

  7. #22

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    skibik- Glad I didn`t come across like a pedantic [jerk].

    I do indeed remember the waxes/etc. from the `60s/etc. Other than Meguiar`s #7/etc. I learned very young that "less is better", especially with stuff like the TW/Simonize/M16.

    Heh heh...I gotta tease you about going through FK1000P so fast! That tiny (and dried-out) sample tin I got for free did dozens of coats on wheels and countless coats on big vehicles like my old Yukon XLD (including jambs/etc.), and still lasted me for years. The regular-size tin I have is gonna last far longer than the decade+ that I get out of most any tin of wax (and you may have noticed that I do believe in layering on many applications of my LSPs).

    While doing the *really* thin applications strikes some as a PIA, I honestly believe you`re making things very hard on yourself by slathering on more than is necessary. But admittedly, what we do regularly becomes what we consider normal, and I`ve been doing this thin stuff since forever so I might have a skewed perspective.

    Like...a really thin application of something like KSG can be virtually invisible on white/silver, but as long as there`s complete coverage (no missed areas) it`s still plenty. I think in terms of bonding to/covering the paint at the *molecular* level even if that`s an exaggeration if taken literally.

    I focus on *feeling* the diff between waxed/not areas, rather than seeing the LSP on the paint, when I apply. Paint with LSP on it feels different from paint that`s still bare and also from paint with not-immediately-fresh LSP on it (even if that`s more subtle). I bet that a little concentrated, determined experience will make that obvious to you and then the lightbulb will come on

    Not sure if you got complete coverage? Fog the surface with your breath (OK, some environmental factors matter...) and I bet you`ll see it on there after all. And I find that fogging contributes just enough moisture to make buffing off easier without compromising the results in any way.

    Anyhoo...I`m glad it`s working well for you and that you think it`s a good LSP.

  8. #23
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Accumulator - Yeah, if I can just tell myself that thin is better I probably wouldn`t have as much trouble as I do removing some of the waxes I use or have used in the past. A few years ago I picked up some BFCS to try for my spring and summer sealants so I wouldn`t have to mess with the FK1000p for more than once a year. I even have trouble on usage on that and have gone through more of the bottle than I should have considering the couple different times I have used it. The only one I seem to have properly put on is the BFWD, but have only used that couple times. Then of course I had to BFMS , have used that once or twice and at least on black it seemed a little easier to see exactly how much I was using.

    Maybe I will learn one of these times to try and use sparingly. Although I can say if I don`t I don`t think I will run out of product in a while.
    Dean.

  9. #24

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    skibik- Heh heh, sounds like you`ve certainly, uhm...accumulated...plenty of LSPs! So yeah, other than making it hard(er) on yourself and maybe precluding the most effective layering, eh...you`re doing fine. You might work harder on the thin application than you currently work on buffing it off

    You sure did get my attention with that rate of FK1000P consumption though!

  10. #25

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    I have applied FK1000P by hand using a 4 inch lake country hydro-tech red pad which does not let the product sink into the pad. I really didn`t try to keep it too thin but after 1 panel took a short nap micro fiber and wiped lightly to even it out thin it out. Then let it dry completely wipes off easy after that just as easy as anything I have ever used. My new go to LSP

  11. #26

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    superdave592- Welcome to Autopia!

    You`re in good company with that two-stage buff-off; Ketch (the guy who schooled me on so much FK and ValuGard stuff) advocated that too. (He thought it`d help make the immediate layering work out better.)

    I never thought of doing that to level it out, that might be just the ticket for people who don`t want to do the thin THIN *THIN* applications, so thanks for sharing that.

    Glad to hear it`s working out so well for you!

  12. #27

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    I got around to trying this LSP out on my headlights & other plastics first. I noticed the haze is pretty hard to wipe off. A single 30cm sq mircofibre cloth did not get most of the haze off no matter how many times I tried, just 80% & the left over would not absorb by the cloth. I had to use many tissues to get it crystal clear.

    So how do you guys buff this haze off? Do you use many MF cloths of something? If so how do you wash these MF cloths after?

  13. #28
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Sounds like it was applied on the heavy side. Thin, thin, thin layers is the key.

  14. #29

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Tc99m View Post
    Sounds like it was applied on the heavy side. Thin, thin, thin layers is the key.
    Any pointers on how to get that thin application? It seems like a skill that once you develop it its second nature but until then it can be less than intuive. Is the amount you are loading the applicator the key or a light touch or something else?

  15. #30
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    My recommendation is a thin, round foam applicator. Place it in the tin and give it a 90 degree twist with just a little bit of pressure to pick up a small amount of FK1000P, and then use that to cover an entire panel.

    After you do this a few times, the applicator will start to get saturated and you won`t have to replenish it as much. When you`re done, store the applicator in the tin.

    If you use more than what looks like a greasy palm print, you`ve used too much.
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