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  1. #166

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    JustJesus- Here` something to keep an eye out for regarding the 50:1...sometimes after I clean the glass, *if I let it go without more cleaning for a lot longer than usual*, the "not clean glass any more"-effect seems to show somewhat like "smearing", making me wonder if whatever causes the 50:1 to leave the glass slick eventually dies off, leaving the glass not just "it was clean, but now it`s dusty and dirty", but smeared looking, presumably with "50:1 artifacts" causing that appearance. Note all those scare-quotes, not sure I`m describing this adequately...It does clean up again fine, and I seldom let the glass get that bad between cleanings, but still it makes me wonder.

    Manix & Dan- Interesting! I`ll log your experiences into the "not working for `em" category. Eh, I always feel bad when somebody tries something that I consider All That only to have it under-perform for them. Curious about why the !YMMV! thing bit so hard too..

    FWIW, I`ve never used it on glass...nor on a vehicle kept outside.

    How many coats were used for those results?

    What (conventional/non-coating) products have performed better for you guys?

    Manix- Any etching from those bird-bombs?

    Dan- That daily outside all the time?

  2. #167

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Yeah, when I say 3 months, that 1 coat applied by hand and parked outside 24x7. That`s not a bad number, about mid pack. Z2 lasts longer but offers very little in terms of protection. Collinte is about the only other thing that really lasts considerably longer for me.

  3. #168

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Dan- thanks for the added info. Right offhand, I can`t recall ever using just one coat of FK1000P, wonder if it`s like KSG where it *can* be incredibly good, but only with multiple applications.
    Likes Dan liked this post

  4. #169
    JustJesus's Avatar
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    JustJesus- Here` something to keep an eye out for regarding the 50:1...sometimes after I clean the glass, *if I let it go without more cleaning for a lot longer than usual*, the "not clean glass any more"-effect seems to show somewhat like "smearing", making me wonder if whatever causes the 50:1 to leave the glass slick eventually dies off, leaving the glass not just "it was clean, but now it`s dusty and dirty", but smeared looking, presumably with "50:1 artifacts" causing that appearance. Note all those scare-quotes, not sure I`m describing this adequately...It does clean up again fine, and I seldom let the glass get that bad between cleanings, but still it makes me wonder.
    Thanks for the info on that. I`ll keep an eye out for when I get around to using it.

  5. #170

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    JustJesus- Here` something to keep an eye out for regarding the 50:1...sometimes after I clean the glass, *if I let it go without more cleaning for a lot longer than usual*, the "not clean glass any more"-effect seems to show somewhat like "smearing", making me wonder if whatever causes the 50:1 to leave the glass slick eventually dies off, leaving the glass not just "it was clean, but now it`s dusty and dirty", but smeared looking, presumably with "50:1 artifacts" causing that appearance. Note all those scare-quotes, not sure I`m describing this adequately...It does clean up again fine, and I seldom let the glass get that bad between cleanings, but still it makes me wonder.

    Manix & Dan- Interesting! I`ll log your experiences into the "not working for `em" category. Eh, I always feel bad when somebody tries something that I consider All That only to have it under-perform for them. Curious about why the !YMMV! thing bit so hard too..

    FWIW, I`ve never used it on glass...nor on a vehicle kept outside.

    How many coats were used for those results?

    What (conventional/non-coating) products have performed better for you guys?

    Manix- Any etching from those bird-bombs?

    Dan- That daily outside all the time?
    Hi,

    As far as I can tell no etching. But bird poop usually sticks far worse in summer with the heat & sunlight.

    Next time I apply I will try 3-4 coats & see how long they last.

  6. #171
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Hi Accumulator and others. I am still loving my FK1000 and its loves my Yellow Ute the Glossy Hard Candy look is sensational (2 coats). Re recent posts on what wash to use? For me the Megs Ultimate Wash n Wax works a treat. I could not wish for a better after wash look and it looks great right up to the next fortnightly wash. ( I do every third wash to break up the routine use Megs Gold Class or Autoglym however the Wash n Wax Compliments the FK like none of the other washes i have used

    Just as a note i tried a spray sealant called Concours Nova Jet (being well received here in Australia a genuine stand alone sealant or topper) just on a test spot on my hood to see how it went with the FK and despite it being a good product re shine and hydrophobic properties it didnt add much at all to the FK as a topper. So as you said Accumulator to me on another post, after i had tried my waxes as toppers on some test sections, that I would probably revert to FK as the stand alone product. Indeed that is the case. So for me the combo of the FK as the sealant: and the Megs Wash n Wax: Works for me 10/10. Cheers Danny.

  7. #172

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Dannyzz View Post
    Hi Accumulator and others. I am still loving my FK1000 and its loves my Yellow Ute the Glossy Hard Candy look is sensational (2 coats). Re recent posts on what wash to use? For me the Megs Ultimate Wash n Wax works a treat. I could not wish for a better after wash look and it looks great right up to the next fortnightly wash. ( I do every third wash to break up the routine use Megs Gold Class or Autoglym however the Wash n Wax Compliments the FK like none of the other washes i have used

    Just as a note i tried a spray sealant called Concours Nova Jet (being well received here in Australia a genuine stand alone sealant or topper) just on a test spot on my hood to see how it went with the FK and despite it being a good product re shine and hydrophobic properties it didnt add much at all to the FK as a topper. So as you said Accumulator to me on another post, after i had tried my waxes as toppers on some test sections, that I would probably revert to FK as the stand alone product. Indeed that is the case. So for me the combo of the FK as the sealant: and the Megs Wash n Wax: Works for me 10/10. Cheers Danny.
    I tried Ultima Acrylic Spray Wax as a topper to FK1000 and was amazed at the results--increased gloss and has the same characteristics as the FK1000.

    Ultima Acrylic Spray Wax
    "If your Personal Beliefs deny what`s objectively true about the world, then they`re more accurately called Personal Delusions" Neil deGrasse Tyson

  8. #173
    Dannyzz's Avatar
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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    That`s what I find with the Megs Ultimate Wash n Wax adds extra gloss and even adds a greater level of slipperiness without seemingly affecting the FK1000. The Ultima I have never used (not sure it is here in Oz so good to know it plays with the Mighty FK1000.

  9. #174

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Dannyzz- Glad it`s working out so well for you. Interesting how some leaves-stuff-behind products work so well with FK1000P, glad you found a wash you like that`s compatible.

    Manix- Ah, glad the bird-bombs didn`t etch, at least that`s something. Wonder if the additional coats will make a diff...watch out for pseudo-holograms!

    pwaug- Ah, another product that`s FK1000P-compatible!

  10. #175

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    JustJesus- Here` something to keep an eye out for regarding the 50:1...sometimes after I clean the glass, *if I let it go without more cleaning for a lot longer than usual*, the "not clean glass any more"-effect seems to show somewhat like "smearing", making me wonder if whatever causes the 50:1 to leave the glass slick eventually dies off, leaving the glass not just "it was clean, but now it`s dusty and dirty", but smeared looking, presumably with "50:1 artifacts" causing that appearance. Note all those scare-quotes, not sure I`m describing this adequately...It does clean up again fine, and I seldom let the glass get that bad between cleanings, but still it makes me wonder.
    I`ve been using 3D 50:1 Glass Cleaner for a couple of years now and haven`t had this experience. Make sure you use the 50:1 dilution rating as there is a warning on the bottle to not exceed this ratio. I mix it with distilled water and .5 oz of IPA and use Huck towels to clean my glass. With the first towel (wet with the cleaner) it creates sort of a film on the glass that removes easily with the second dry towel and as the film is removed you can feel the slickness. I find this to be an advantage as I can clean glass without smearing even in bad light just by making sure the entire pane is slick.
    "If your Personal Beliefs deny what`s objectively true about the world, then they`re more accurately called Personal Delusions" Neil deGrasse Tyson
    Thanks JustJesus thanked for this post

  11. #176

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    pwaug- Yeah, that mirrors my experience (other than I`ve never added the IPA and have a different preference in Glass Towels).

    BUT...after an extended period without cleaning the glass, the soiling, which oughta just be a uniform layer of dust/dirt/etc. shows traces of how I`d previously wiped when I cleaned it the last time. I seldom go all that long without cleaning the glass, and it`s never hard to fix it, but still....doesn`t happen with some of my other Glass Cleaners.

    It *does* also happen, in a more striking way, with Detailer`s Pride (got it as a freebie), which leaves a film that I can *see as residue on my towel* when I clean it off with something else.

    While the 50:1 is working out OK for me, I honestly don`t believe it leaves the glass as (truly, literally) clean as does, say....Zep40. By the time I go through the forty-some gallons worth of it my concentrate will mix up, I bet I`ll have made up my mind about the stuff! So far I`m leaning towards sticking with it but we`ll see how I feel after a few years.

  12. #177

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Could applying outside after sunset in winter or on a wet humid day signifigantly reduce coat lifetime? What with the fine potentiol condensation forming on panels.


    Perhaps leaving the coat haze sit for a few hours before wipping off is the key? How long do you leave it sit? I leave it sit for around 20mins, any longer and fine debris will start to fall on car.


    I have dropped doing the windows now as it clearly doesn`t offer any advanatge & just adds way more time, and on all my windows the water beading usually stopped after just a few weeks.


    I have also dropped doing the door jams & under bonnet unless someone can convience me why its worth it? The wax usually gets in tight areas & on rubbers that are hard to wipe off & potenioal just wearing down paint in doing so. Under bonnet rust has formed over time in tight areas like around bolts that wax couldn`t get to anyway.


    For a car outside all the time What causes the wax coat to break down & dissapear? Sun/UV? rain/being wet for long hours? Can`t see the shampoo being the culprit as gargage cars get washed too.


    Another annoying problem I have is wile applying wax the foam app & inside can slowly get small bits of debris in it no matter what.
    Probably just the fine stuff floating around outside. Only thing to do is swap over foam app.


    Are yellow ebay foam apps fine? They tend to have a slight coarse feel when first applying the coat to clean paint.

  13. #178

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Since I`m an FK1000p beginner, I`ll check in.

    I did a full decon wash including CG Clean Slate soap, Iron-X and a fine Nanoskin. Then followed a polish with Menzerna SF4000 on LC white with an Eraser wipe down.

    I applied with a Swissvax black applicator (which perfectly fits the opening of the FK1000p tin). I followed Accumulator`s oft-repeated advice of applying ridiculously thin. From the wrap, I think I loaded the applicator with nothing more than a little swirl. I fought my muscle-memory urge to swirl the applicator in the tin once or twice for every body panel and just kept going. When I reapplied to the applicator, I set it in the tin, gave it a 1/4 or 1/8 turn, and kept applying. The combination of the applicator, my paint, and the product made it clear where I was and whether I was overlapping from texture feedback. I overlapped quite a lot to be sure I had an even coat, which was easier to do than my previous go-to LSP (P21S Concours).

    With P21S you apply and buff off before it dries. With FK I applied to the whole vehicle, stopped for a drink, rejigged my Spotify playlist, then started buffing off. My Space Grey Metallic (BMW colour A52) barely showed the FK at all. In most places if I didn`t know it was on there I wouldn`t have been able to tell other than lack of gloss, of course. This is the lightest colour I`ve ever had, I expect darker colours would have shown it more. In my garage with daylight coming in the bay doors, from 6-10 feet you couldn`t tell it had product applied.

    My buff towel was a furry MF (I think my local detailing supply place dubbed it "the Cookie Monster"). It had a clear glide over the surface, I could usually tell by feel where I had removed the FK, and it buffed out nice and glossy. With the product so thin, I only needed the one MF to buff the whole car and I couldn`t really tell it was used after I was done. Honestly this tin of FK will probably last me 40 years+.

    I`ll follow Accumulator`s advice and wait 1-2 weeks before reapplying for a second coat.

  14. #179

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Surly- Sure glad my suggestions worked OK for you! If you didn`t already try it, see if fogging the surface with your breath during the Fk1000P buff-off is helpful/not.

  15. #180

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    Re: FK1000p Beginner questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Manix View Post
    Could applying outside after sunset in winter or on a wet humid day signifigantly reduce coat lifetime? What with the fine potentiol condensation forming on panels.
    I don`t really know, but I do suspect that those conditions might be a bit of an issue.

    Perhaps leaving the coat haze sit for a few hours before wipping off is the key? How long do you leave it sit? I leave it sit for around 20mins, any longer and fine debris will start to fall on car.
    That might help a bit, but if it results in marring from contamination then I dunno if it`d be worth it. I usually just apply to the whole vehicle and then buff off, but if I let it sit a while longer/shorter it never makes a discernible difference.

    I have dropped doing the windows now as it clearly doesn`t offer any advanatge & just adds way more time, and on all my windows the water beading usually stopped after just a few weeks.
    Eh, I never LSP glass and couldn`t care less if my glass beads or not so I wouldn`t/don`t do it either. But then I do my glass very frequently even though my vehicles are all garaged and basically pampered. Doubt I ever go a week without cleaning at least the windshield and might do it daily. But that`s just me...if you don`t care, and if your vision isn`t compromised, then why bother?

    I have also dropped doing the door jams & under bonnet unless someone can convience me why its worth it? The wax usually gets in tight areas & on rubbers that are hard to wipe off & potenioal just wearing down paint in doing so. Under bonnet rust has formed over time in tight areas like around bolts that wax couldn`t get to anyway
    .

    No question, those areas can be a challenge to do, takes some time and effort. That said, I can`t imagine why you`d get LSP on surfaces where you don`t want it nor why there would be any "wearing down of the paint". Some vehicles are more prone to rust than others, but IME keeping everything clean and well-LSPed helps to significantly minimize that; note that my vehicles are OK in this regard despite being pretty old and subjected to Ohio winters. Yeah, doing some stuff can take a *LONG* time but IME it doesn`t need done very often.

    Eh, same answer: if you don`t care then it doesn`t matter.

    For a car outside all the time What causes the wax coat to break down & dissapear? Sun/UV? rain/being wet for long hours? Can`t see the shampoo being the culprit as gargage cars get washed too.
    I figure it`s a combo of all those environmental factors. Some shampoos *are* really hard on LSPs, but there are plenty that are not.

    Another annoying problem I have is wile applying wax the foam app & inside can slowly get small bits of debris in it no matter what.
    Probably just the fine stuff floating around outside. Only thing to do is swap over foam app.
    Eh, that sort of thing is why I haven`t worked outside since the mid-70s (and only briefly then). I`d hold the tin in your hand with your hand covering its opening to at least keep that from getting contaminated.

    Are yellow ebay foam apps fine? They tend to have a slight coarse feel when first applying the coat to clean paint.
    Do the CD-test to know for certain.

    Eh, I get the feeling that between your situation/environment and the various demands of this Detailing stuff, that you`ve hit a point where you have Autopian Perfection on one hand, and "Oh, [screw] this [stuff]" on the other and you`re leaning towards just going with the latter. Spend enough time here at Autopia and you can start to think that every vehicle oughta be perfect all the time and that nothing else is OK, so it`s All or Nothing. IMO that`s a false dichotomy and you can keep stuff pretty nice without making it a huge deal. But if you want somebody to give you a pass and say it`s OK to just not care about Detailing, well...OK, it`s all up to YOU. As long as any neglect doesn`t impact the safety of you or others (rusted through brake/fuel lines comes to mind as I`ve bought cars with such issues) then this stuff simply doesn`t matter unless you want it to.

 

 
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