LSP Winter Faceoff

[davidc]

And here I thought the test died . I actually thought about this a few days ago, then my old feeble brain forgot about it. Thanks for the update.

Dave

[4u2nvinmtl]

Viewer discretion is advised…

I think I took things a little far but I guess the results do speak for them self’s. I last washed my Jeep SRT8 on February 12^th or 50 days ago (washed on April, 2^nd for this update). I did how ever take it through a touchless twice (soap only) as I didn’t have access to a place to wash it.

Well I finally got a break in the weather where it was above freezing so I rushed out to get a full detail in. I spent 6 hours detailing the interior back to perfection and about 3-4 hours on the exterior (far from perfection). The exterior paint and faux chrome trim need to be decontaminated very badly at this point and I’m disappointed I let it get to this point but it will give me an opportunity to re-polish and apply the winging LSP.

The goods:

Wash process:

• Pressure Rinse (connected to the hot water)
• Foam Cannon (with 2oz of Meg’s D110 Hyper Wash and hot water)
• APC the tire & Degreaser the wheel & exhaust tips (wash fender liners and scrubbed tires with brushes)
• Wheel wooly, Speedy Detail brush, microfiber mitt, lug nut brush for the wheels and tires (using two buckets)
• Pressure Rinse wheels and paint (soap was still dwelling and didn’t dry on the paint)
• Two bucket washed with 1.5oz of Meg’s D110 Hyper wash and a CarPro Merino Mitt
• Pressure Rinsed
• Dried using Dry Me a River Jr. waffle weave towels D114 as a drying aid (sprayed onto the towel) as the paint was very grabby and contaminated

Foam action (always love how it looks):

LSP break down:

• DFF – KAIO topped with 2 layers of KSG <- Applied 4 months ago
• DRD – 2 layers of KSG <- Applied 4 months ago
• DRF – 2 layers of DG601 & DG105 at a 1:4 Ratio <- Applied 4 months ago
• PFF – 2 layers of FK-1000p <- Applied 4 months ago
• PRD – 2 layers of FK-1000p <-Applied 4 months ago
• PRF – 2 layers of Collinite 476s <- Applied 4 months ago
• Hood – 1 layer of WG Uber <- Applied 5 months ago
• Roof – 1 layer of Collinite 845 <- Applied 11 months ago

Key/Legend:

• DFF = Drivers Front Fender
• DRD = Drivers Rear Door
• DRF = Drivers Rear Fender
• PFF = Passenger Front Fender
• PRD = Passenger Rear Door
• PRF = Passenger Rear Fender

Post-rinse walk around inspection:

Close up of a problem area:

[4u2nvinmtl]

DFF – KAIO topped with 2 layers of KSG applied 4 months ago

I’m defiantly still impressed with this LSP and I must note, it had less bonded contaminants than the opposite panel with the FK1000P on it. The paint feels very grabby while washing and drying. There’s a considerable about of bonded surface contaminants, mostly tar but some break dust that’s starting to rust as well. Water still beads but in an oblonged way, and it sheets surprisingly well. I wouldn’t say it failed (far from it) but it certainly needs to be decontaminated and reapplied at this point IMHO. [End of test for this panel]

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:


Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:

[4u2nvinmtl]

DRD – 2 layers of KSG applied 4 months ago

I find there’s very little differentiation from the DFF panel (with KIO&KSG) to this one (KSG only). I’m impressed KSG lasted this long without the KAIO. The paint feels very grabby while washing and drying and there’s a considerable about of bonded surface contaminants (mostly tar but some break dust that’s starting to rust as well). Water still beads but in an oblonged way, and it sheets surprisingly well. I wouldn’t say it failed but it certainly needs to be decontaminated and reapplied at this point IMHO. [End of test for this panel]

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:


Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:

[4u2nvinmtl]

DRF – 2 layers of DG601 & DG105 at a 1:4 ratio applied 4 months ago

This panel had iron contamination that was starting to rust but still beads very well. Sheeting is not as strong as the Klasse panels but it’s not far behind. The paint felt grabby while washing and drying. I would defiantly say this product lasted but it needs to be decontaminated and reapplied at this point IMHO. [End of test for this panel]

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:


Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:

[4u2nvinmtl]

PFF – 2 layers of FK-1000p applied 4 months ago

This panel was more contaminated that the opposite panel and the beading wasn’t as strong (sheeting was still good). The FK1000P may have been affected by the harsh soaps used at the touchless wash and or the road salt. I must say I’m surprised and in a way disappointed, heavy contamination will defiantly require a claying and reapplication of LSP on this panel. [End of test for this panel]

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:


Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:

[4u2nvinmtl]

PRD – 2 layers of FK-1000p applied 4 months ago

This panel was very comparable to the opposite panel in terms of contamination. The beading is weakening but the sheeting is still very good. I wouldn’t say the LSP is worn out but this panel will need to be decontaminated bringing an end to the durability test for this panel. Note: I was confused in the video and mistook this for the Klasse panel. [End of test for this panel]

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:



Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:

[4u2nvinmtl]

PRF – 2 layers of Collinite 476s applied 4 months ago

The trend continues with Collinite, tight water beading and ok water sheeting. This panel has the 2^nd best beading out of all the LSP’s on the car and the best non-coating LSP in terms of beading and tied with Klasse (KAIO&KSG) in terms of bonded surface contaminants. This panel could get by without a decontamination (for your average joe) but considering I works so hard to compound out the orange peel I will defiantly decontaminate this panel. [End of test for this panel]

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:




Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:

[4u2nvinmtl]

Roof – 1 layer of Collinite 845 applied 11 months ago

The 845 on this panel is starting to weaken but surprisingly not on the glass. I will be correcting the paint on this panel this summer and applying a coating that should last many years. I must say that 845 is truly an outstanding product and far exceeded my expectations. It’s served it’s propose (hassle free protection) and will continue to have a place on my LSP self and heart.

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:

[4u2nvinmtl]

Hood – 1 layer of WG Uber applied 5 months ago

Well I’ve been a sceptic towards coatings (in general) all a long but the results on this panel clearly speak for them self’s especially when you compare them to the other LSP results. This panel basically has zero bonded contaminates (you’ll notice some rock chips in the video that look like tar because the aluminum has oxidized – “I think”). This panel still looks as good as the day I polished and coated it. All of the other panels look dull in comparison. Don’t get me wrong, the other panels are still shiny but the reflections are dull / muted compared to this WG Uber coated panel. The beading and sheeting is still a mixed bag for me (some areas perform better than others). I can only assume this is due to my very thin application or road film (or whatever you want to call it) adhered to the coating. I believe it’s the latter because I’ve done a CarPro Eraser wipe down on the coating and it restored the beading and sheeting like new, but people have PM’ed me saying I should have applied two layers to ensure full / even coverage, and I agree (I will next time).

Wolfgang Uber Ceramic Coating is clearly the winner even though it wasn’t supposed to be part of the LSP Faceoff because it was applied at a different time with a different prep and lets face it, it’s a coating. Regardless, I’m happy I decided to include it into the Faceoff and it’s more than proved that coatings do have a place on my Jeep SRT8.

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:


Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:

[4u2nvinmtl]

If anyone is wondering how it got so contaminated, it’s because I raced my Jeep SRT8 on a track with 40-60 other cars in the snow (winter drifting) and it got covered with hot contaminates mixed in the snow that were blasted all over the paint during the drifts/slides. I didn’t think about it at the time but in hindsight, I defiantly picked up lots of contaminants from those events considering there were so many other modified cars (most were non-street legal). I don’t think it wouldn’t be as bad if the snow didn’t act as a medium to carry the contaminants onto the paint (hot break dust in kicked up snow must melt down to the LSP in bond to the surface easily – logical assumption). The tar comes from the new pothole trucks the city now uses year-round to repair the endless potholes. It basically sprays high-tar-content asphalt into the hole until slightly over filled and pats it down. The next car to drive over kicks up %5 of the high-tar-asphalt causing tar to get slung around. I happen to live in a particularly bad part with old cobblestone roads that have covered in asphalt by corrupt construction contractors (recently an overpass fell and killed people because they skimped too much on re-bar) so as you can image the potholes form very frequently…

What am I going to do next?
I plan to fully decontaminate using Iron-X, Tarminator, medium grade clay alternative, and a medium grade clay bar, and then re-polish using the Boss G21 an LC HD Orange polish pad with Menz SF4000, and then coat the whole thing with Wolfgang Uber Ceramic Coating twice (after the paint is cleaned of polishing oils of course)!


If there’s interest I can make a video (and take pictures) of how these LSP perform post-decontamination, if there’s anything left. I see some people ask if decontaminating will strip their LSP so I figure it might be worth documenting as a final testament to the products.

Thanks for reading, subscribing, commenting, and PMing!

And finally thank you to Autopia for the great open forums that led to this fantastic community of detailers. Also big thanks to PBMC for selecting me in the WG Uber giveaway!

FTI: This final update starts on post #77 at page 2.

[rlmccarty2000]

Thanks for taking the time to do this test and pass along the results. I`m sure you will be very happy with your car completely coated with WG Uber.

[jrock645]

Impressive that the Collinite products outdid FK1000, as many reports say the opposite.

[nickclark08]

I really appreciate you performing this comparison... I`ve been following along since the beginning, and the info sold me on FK1000p.

Great work!

[davidc]

Thanks for carrying the test to the end. I use Collinite exclusively and has survived 115-120 temps the occasional rains and monsoon storms with blowing dirt, sand and torrential down pours. Coatings are good for some but not me, I will stay with the Collinite.

Dave