FK1000P vs. Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze

[Accumulator]

4u2nvinmtl- I`ve been keeping an eye peeled, but I`m still not getting the fly-attraction to my FK1000P`ed vehicles. Just luck I guess...

Interesting about the "flake pop" you noticed being more pronounced with the KSG compared to FK1000P! On GM Granite Metallic (sorta metallic black) I had the exact *opposite* happen! Must be related to the type of flake.

I just cleaned out my one FK1000P applicator for the umpteenth time after redoig the Tahoe...still comes clean easily for me. I`m using the old EFHI APC to clean it out, maybe that`s the explanation (that and the way I hardly use *any* FK1000P so the applicator doesn`t get too saturated with product).

Oh man am I glad the FK1000P worked out for you after the way I went on about how you just had to try it...would`ve felt bad had you not liked it.

[4u2nvinmtl]

4u2nvinmtl- I`ve been keeping an eye peeled, but I`m still not getting the fly-attraction to my FK1000P`ed vehicles. Just luck I guess...

It could be the case with most LSP I just happened not to have an issue with Klasse, I noticed the same thing with Collinite 845 on my roof (flys love it). Did my secondary bumper with Klasse AIO/SK and left it outside near my car and flys didn`t want to land (so that rules out location). All that`s left to rule out is polish, maybe some TSO from Reflect was left on the paint or as someone else said "flys are attracted to shiny paint" and it just happens to be more polished than my secondary bumper (paint wasn`t polished when I had Klasse on it).

Interesting about the "flake pop" you noticed being more pronounced with the KSG compared to FK1000P! On GM Granite Metallic (sorta metallic black) I had the exact *opposite* happen! Must be related to the type of flake.

Like I said it was very subjective with the FK1000P on my silver paint, but there was very noticeable flake pop on a dark red car I did with bright red flake (KAIO + KSG) - to a point that the owner accused me of repainting the car (ROFL)! There`s still good flake pop with FK1000P but not to the same extent. Note: I also didn`t apply FK1000P to that dark red car to compare, but I have redone it with Collinite 845 and it totally muted the flake pop (i.e. 2/10 for Collinite)

I just cleaned out my one FK1000P applicator for the umpteenth time after redoing the Tahoe...still comes clean easily for me. I`m using the old EFHI APC to clean it out, maybe that`s the explanation (that and the way I hardly use *any* FK1000P so the applicator doesn`t get too saturated with product).

I won`t lie I used a bunch of FK1000P and the pad is significantly saturated with product, I tried to clean it with everything under the sun (dish soap, hand soap, car mechanic soap, D101 APC, Microfiber detergent, softener-free detergent, they all made very little difference). In the end designated the pad for FK1000P application and don`t bother cleaning (just made sure to rinse the soap out with about 10,000 gallons of tap water). I got most of the product out by squeezing the applicator as hard as I could and it oozed out (Yeah, I put too much intentionally to see if it was as hard to take off as people said for my first coat and it came off easily IMHO but the 2nd layer I put on like KSG -very thin)

Oh man am I glad the FK1000P worked out for you after the way I went on about how you just had to try it...would`ve felt bad had you not liked it.

I am so glad too! There`s no need to feel bad (if I didn`t like it) unless you`re making the stuff (but I appreciate the empathy none the less). The best thing about FK1000P is how my car always looks good and it is so easy to clean (nothing sticks). I was able to literally blow a dead bug of the paint with my breath it`s so slick (no QD/WW or microfiber). I`m thinking of moving away from my dreadlock wash mitt`s too (noticed very, very light marring in a few places but could be the kids rubbing against the car). I was thinking of just pressure rinsing, foam lance, flood rising and forced air drying (unless it`s heavily soiled) to reduce my contact with the paint. Unless you have something between the BHB and a wash mitt to suggest?

[pwaug]

I just used FK1000p for the first time. With Accumulators "scare" tacktics about applying it thin(lol) I picked up one of these crumb scrapers at a kitchen products store-- Crumber | 6" Gold Pocket Crumber Really speeds things up--turned the hand applicator (red B&S dual pad) one quarter turn in the FK1000p then scraped the product off the surface of the pad for each section. Did the entire car then came back and buffed off in a snap. Waited 48 hours and applied a second thin coat with no problems.

Car is Granite Green (light green with a grey tinge) and the flake really popped with the FK1000.

Our garage seems to fill up with flys this time of year when I have the door open and haven`t seen any collecting on the car/FK1000.

Built one of these "Pad Washers" My Ghetto Pad Washer Soaked the FK1000 pads in Dawn solution for a few hours, sqeezed them out, sprayed with Awesome Orange Degreaser then washed them in the pad washer--after 24 hours air drying they seem to be good as new although I will dedicate them to FK1000.

[Accumulator]

pwaug- Glad things are going well with the FK1000P! Yeah, that "scrape off/out the excess" is a good idea, glad I scared you into taking that thin THIN *THIN* application seriously

Bet that color looks great with it, and I`m glad you`re not experiencing 4u2nvinmtls`s bug attraction!

4u2nvinmtl- Yeah, between the FK1000P and all the pad cleaning product I bet it *did* take a lot of rinsing!

IME you can get things very clean with the (relatively fresh) FK1000P by just pressure-rinsing and blow-drying. Not Autopian-clean, but nice for Real Life. Using a BHB/foamgun combo after the pressure-rinse might get it truly clean since you don`t let it get as nasty as I do between washes. (There I go with the BHB/foamgun again )

On the mitts, I wonder what kind of diff you`d experience if you switched to a convenional sheepskin mitt instead of the dreadlock-type. And when doing a real wash, a good rinseless wash product as a drying aid adds a margin of safey just in case you didn`t quite get all the dirt off.

Oh, and it must`ve been very gratifying when the owner of that red car was thinking "repaint"!

[TheMeanGreen]

pwaug:

The reason that I am choosing to go with a PC cable is because I know that it is a quality tool, I like quality tools and if I had the experience, I would go for a Rupes or Flex without hesitation!! And for my applications, a repainted 98 Accord and an 06 BMW X3, I don`t think I will need a super strong machine. As far as removing wax, I don`t that that is an issue for me and I have a silicone spatula that I can use. One summer the Detailer and I detailed a boat every weekend, one weekend we waxed it with Collinite 885, the following week we saw that we missed some on a white area of the gel coat, long story short it wasn`t too bad to remove, just took some elbow grease I have been looking at The Rag Company, Microfiber Tech, and Autopia, so towels will most likely be sourced from one of, if not all of these companies. I have used Meguiar`s Mirror Glaze #1 before, so heavy cutting is something that is not new to me; but on a rotary and drill primarly comes that experience, Meguiar`s Ultimate Compound is my go to for hand application. I am not entirely new to true detailing. The summer going into, and out of freshman year of college I worked with a professional detailer and have worked for a higher end used car dealership, and have been washing and waxing cars since seventh grade; now I am upping my `game`. As far as a nano sponge is concerned, I really prefer clay, I`ve used clay for years and don`t really have the desire to switch, especially when I also have two unopened slabs of it.

alexxxx89:

I HATE solvent tire gels!! They have the nastiest consistency and they are too much to worry about. There has been one solvent based product that have actually liked, and it is ABPC`s tire shine, that stuff would never sling and it left an incredible shine, I also liked that it could be applied to a wet tire and be buffed off and still shine. If I could swing it, I would go with Meg`s Hyperdressing because I can dilute it to my liking and the fact that it is water based is the best part; have no worries as the Meg`s tire shine and trim gel is water based. I`ll look into chemical decontaminate and see what I can find, it could be a product that I purchase a bit further down the road, I am not too worried however, when I bought my car, the PO had installed brake dust covers behind the wheels years ago, so my wheels stay relatively clean compared to others, but I`m not totally dismissing the fact that there could be chemical contaminants on the paint or Iron.

4u2nvinmtl:

I would only be phased by the smell if it lingers on the car after application and buff off, I love everything cars, so car smells do not really phase me. Aviation fuel and race gas are the two best smells known to mankind

[Accumulator]

TheMeanGreen- I`ll take a wild guess that you might even *like* the scent of FK1000P! I do...

One thing onthe PC (well, two things)...both of my (older) PCs needed rebuilt more often than I think they should`ve while some of my other polishers (with infinitely more hours on them) have never needed rebuilding; IMO the PC is just not the kind of quality tool I look for. And the newer PC`s spindle is hollow; a few people here (including Barry Theal) have had it fracture, leaving them with a jagged piece of steel spinning oh-so-close to the paint! For that reason alone I`d never buy one of the PC XPs. (If they`ve changed that, somebody please correct me.)

[4u2nvinmtl]

TheMeanGreen- I`ll take a wild guess that you might even *like* the scent of FK1000P! I do...

One thing onthe PC (well, two things)...both of my (older) PCs needed rebuilt more often than I think they should`ve while some of my other polishers (with infinitely more hours on them) have never needed rebuilding; IMO the PC is just not the kind of quality tool I look for. And the newer PC`s spindle is hollow; a few people here (including Barry Theal) have had it fracture, leaving them with a jagged piece of steel spinning oh-so-close to the paint! For that reason alone I`d never buy one of the PC XPs. (If they`ve changed that, somebody please correct me.)

Nope, my PC-7424XP spindle is hollow

[4u2nvinmtl]

4u2nvinmtl:

I would only be phased by the smell if it lingers on the car after application and buff off, I love everything cars, so car smells do not really phase me. Aviation fuel and race gas are the two best smells known to mankind

The smell is gone shortly after application. I don`t like or dislike the smell it just has an order that`s clearly not scented intentionally (I hope). My wife and other friends complained that my house smelled like gas when I used my FK1000P inside (to coat my shocks yesterday).

As for my fly issue, it`s subsided to a degree (less flys than before), and I can only assume the Autopian that said flys are attracted to reflective/shiny paint is right and it just didn`t look as good to flys before the jeweling/final polish and FK1000P on the body and Collinite 845 on the roof.

[valleyguy1]

In so far as removing both SG and FK 1000p, I spray a detailer on the pad (I use 425) as I apply both SG and FK1000p. Makes removal easier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Accumulator]

4u2nvinmtl- If you ever bear down hard on the PCXP, keep yourself mentally prepared to deal with that spindle snapping off....no it`s certainly *NOT* something that happens even once in a blue moon, but you know how it can go when you`re not prepared for something drastic.

In so far as removing both SG and FK 1000p...

With any LSP, I fog the surface with my breath to provide a tiny bit of moisture, but yeah a compatible-with-that-LSP QD can help a lot.

[valleyguy1]

4u2nvinmtl-

With any LSP, I fog the surface with my breath to provide a tiny bit of moisture, but yeah a compatible-with-that-LSP QD can help a lot.

Not sure how you determine " compatible-with-that-LSP QD ", but I use the 425 with the 1000p.

However, I started spraying my pad when I applied my LSP with QD per the instructions for applying Klasse`s SG. Made it a lot easier to wipe off. I don`t know how hard it is to remove FK1000 without the QD, but using it I found it very easy to remove using a spray of FK425 every few applications of the LSP to keep the pad moist.

Of course YMMV.......

[Accumulator]

valleyguy1- No question about it, the FK425 is compatible with FK1000P! I`ve used a spritz of FK425 to soften up some rock-hard FK1000P and it rendered it usable.

I guess you find out if the QD and LSP are compatible by trying combos and hoping they work But I wouldn`t try, say.... a "waxy" QD with a synthetic LSP. A little common sense oughta go a long way

I am confused about the following though:

However, I started spraying my pad when I applied my LSP with QD per the instructions for applying Klasse`s SG...

My (old, circa 1999!) bottle of KSG doesn`t mention QD, just says to apply it to a clean, dry surface and to use KAIO first if the finish is oxidized. If I wanted to prime my KSG applicator (with something other than KSG) I`d probably reach for Sonus` Acrylic Glanz spray. Oh well, whatever`s working for you sounds good to me!

[valleyguy1]

I`ll have to go look and pull out my old instructions for applying SG. It`s not on the bottle, however, there was a 4 or 5 page instruction "booklet" that came with the twins. I`m pretty sure the idea of spraying a QD on the application pad before putting any SG on it comes from their instructions. However, this would have been over 10-15 years ago (Hmmm, 1999?), so I could be completely wrong. Maybe I read it on the forum, some member suggested it, I tried it and it worked. SG can be a bear to remove at times, particularly if put on too thick. I used to use Eagle One detailer, so that is what I would have used. Used to work fine, and made removing the SG MUCH easier. Those 3 coats of SG lasted quite a while using it.

Hmm, it`s been so long, in retrospect, I may have applied the SG with a damp applicator and used a spray of QD on a MF to remove the SG.

As always, YMMV.....

[marinesoup]

It could be the case with most LSP I just happened not to have an issue with Klasse, I noticed the same thing with Collinite 845 on my roof (flys love it). Did my secondary bumper with Klasse AIO/SK and left it outside near my car and flys didn`t want to land (so that rules out location). All that`s left to rule out is polish, maybe some TSO from Reflect was left on the paint or as someone else said "flys are attracted to shiny paint" and it just happens to be more polished than my secondary bumper (paint wasn`t polished when I had Klasse on it).


Like I said it was very subjective with the FK1000P on my silver paint, but there was very noticeable flake pop on a dark red car I did with bright red flake (KAIO + KSG) - to a point that the owner accused me of repainting the car (ROFL)! There`s still good flake pop with FK1000P but not to the same extent. Note: I also didn`t apply FK1000P to that dark red car to compare, but I have redone it with Collinite 845 and it totally muted the flake pop (i.e. 2/10 for Collinite)


I won`t lie I used a bunch of FK1000P and the pad is significantly saturated with product, I tried to clean it with everything under the sun (dish soap, hand soap, car mechanic soap, D101 APC, Microfiber detergent, softener-free detergent, they all made very little difference). In the end designated the pad for FK1000P application and don`t bother cleaning (just made sure to rinse the soap out with about 10,000 gallons of tap water). I got most of the product out by squeezing the applicator as hard as I could and it oozed out (Yeah, I put too much intentionally to see if it was as hard to take off as people said for my first coat and it came off easily IMHO but the 2nd layer I put on like KSG -very thin)


I am so glad too! There`s no need to feel bad (if I didn`t like it) unless you`re making the stuff (but I appreciate the empathy none the less). The best thing about FK1000P is how my car always looks good and it is so easy to clean (nothing sticks). I was able to literally blow a dead bug of the paint with my breath it`s so slick (no QD/WW or microfiber). I`m thinking of moving away from my dreadlock wash mitt`s too (noticed very, very light marring in a few places but could be the kids rubbing against the car). I was thinking of just pressure rinsing, foam lance, flood rising and forced air drying (unless it`s heavily soiled) to reduce my contact with the paint. Unless you have something between the BHB and a wash mitt to suggest?

4u2nvinmtl

Great job on that 2014 with red flake!
It actually does look like a new paint job.
Just wondering why such a new car was in such bad shape?
4.5 hours, impressive!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Accumulator]

valleyguy1- Sounds like our KSG experiences started at round the same time, yeah...hard to remember stuff we read back then all right. The important thing is that it`s working for you!