No where on the bottle of SG does it say you need to apply AIO first. Now I totally agree with DK. When I get my new car, SG all the way :up .
No where on the bottle of SG does it say you need to apply AIO first. Now I totally agree with DK. When I get my new car, SG all the way :up .
On the SG bottle it states that if the surface is new and oxidation free you can just apply SG.
How about going with the AIO followed by 2 coats of P21S caranuba. This was recommended by the guys at Classic Motoring Accessories. They told me to skip the SG and try this method. I`m new to this so any information would be appreciated.BTW my car is red flame metallic.:xyxthumbs deserttoy
Dunno - a new car is transported over the rail system, and would come with a certain amount of contaminants and dirt - I`d rather AIO it (I did mine, as well as hit it with a once-over claying).
I may not have been clear in my explanation. I plan to use AIO, however, the recommendation was to top it with P21S caranuba instead of SG. Again, this was straight from Classic Motoring!
Hi deserttoy,
For detailers on a budget, AIO will do a pretty good job of cleaning up the paint and adding some shine and protection to it. However, adding at least one layer of SG will increase the level and depth of the shine much more than just AIO alone! If it`s affordable, go for that, you can top it with wax too!
On the other hand, if you`re plenty happy with just AIO and wax, there`s no reason you have to get SG as well! It`s all up to you. I personally like the look of the 3 layers I have on my car. (more next time, i promise!)
AIO and SG were designed to work together where AIO will be your surface prep tool and SG your actual glaze/finish. If your car is in perfect condition you can skip AIO and put a few layers of SG.
AIO will work alone fine as well since it will leave protective layer on your paint (and clean it as well). IMHO it is the longest lasting single step product.
I did not know my car needed AIO until I used a white microfiber sponge applicator to apply it. The white mf needed to be rinsed out during the AIO applicaton. In my case, I`m glad I got that stuff (even though I couldn`t see it) before I sealed it up with 6 layers of Klasse. AIO smooths the paint too, and since I didn`t clay or SMR, I that was my other reason.
Chances are the results will look better if AIO was used on the new car prior to SG. Are you a perfectionist? I don`t know about you guys, but if I skpped AIO and go directly to SG, even though the shine is great, I would always be asking myself "would the shine be BETTER if I used AIO first"? Maybe, maybe not. I guess you`ll never know unless you used it.
That`s why I did not skip BF Polish on a new car (20 miles on the clock) before paint protectant. I never had to wonder if the result will be better if polish was used to prep the finish.
<blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >
<em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by deserttoy [/i]
<strong class=`bbc`>How about going with the AIO followed by 2 coats of P21S caranuba. This was recommended by the guys at Classic Motoring Accessories. They told me to skip the SG and try this method. I`m new to this so any information would be appreciated.BTW my car is red flame metallic.:xyxthumbs deserttoy [/b]</blockquote>
That will work just fine. I would just apply AIO maybe once every 4 - 6 months, depending on how much you drive and how much it is garaged. Apply the P21S as often as you like.
How old is your car? I`m sure you`ve probably read this before, but make sure you prep your car properly. If it`s relatively new, then clay, AIO and go nuts with the P21S. If it`s not so new or has some visible surface defects, then you will need to 1) clay, 2) asses how strong an abrasive you`ll need to remove the swirls, 3) AIO for your acrylic base protection and to clean up and polish any hazing caused by the previous step 4) apply the P21S.
<blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >
<em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by deserttoy [/i]
<strong class=`bbc`>I may not have been clear in my explanation. I plan to use AIO, however, the recommendation was to top it with P21S caranuba instead of SG. Again, this was straight from Classic Motoring! [/b]</blockquote>
Why would you want to skip the SG? It is such an awesome product. I don`t think that it is absolutly needed for your car to look great but it sure doesn`t hurt any to put it on. If you have it then you might as well and then go nuts with the carnuba afterwards. I have tons of SG on and tons of carnuba and I think it looks awesome. :xyxthumbs
Keeping Texas clean one car at a time!
Swirl test
I would like to see someone with a black, or other dark color, car that believes they do a fabulous job of properly washing a car. (Two bucket method, etc...) Not a garage queen but a car that is used and washed on a regular basis.
- Take photos showing the paint after a paint correction that removed all, or close to, all swirls
- Follow your regular sequence of wash, wax, what ever you normally do
- Document changes in the paint by taking the same photos at an interval of 1, 2, 3, 6, & 12 months
I think I do a decent job avoiding swirls when I wash but they return much quicker than I hoped.
I figure I would find:
- I am worse at washing than I think - or-
- I have too high of expectations on keeping swirls at bay
You might want to check your MF towels. Rub them on the data side of a CD, and if they scratch the CD, they will induce swirls in your paint. You can do the greatest job of polishing and swirl removal, but the next time you use a QD with a bad towel, you will have swirls. You will also notice it much quicker on black.
I have a black Toyota Corolla that I did a full detail with paint correction about a month ago, and so far, have managed to keep the swirls at bay.
Barry Schultz
Detailed Elegance
Make your next car silver or white and you won`t have to worry about this anymore /
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