California Dusters

**imported_Intermezzo** · 01-09-2002, 07:23 PM

Basically, I`m deciding between trying 3M Imperial Hand Glaze or alternating between Meguiar`s #9 & #7. I also plan to top/seal that in with an assortment of different waxes (Souveran, Blitz, Zymol, Meguiar`s).

Just wanted to know your opinions on whether the Meguiar`s line of polishes or the 3M Polish (IHG) requires less elbow grease when applied by hand.

Thanks.

**dengelson** · 01-09-2002, 07:44 PM

The best product for your shoulder joints is definitely a PC.

Ok sorry for being a wise acre.

I really don`t feel there is much of a difference. By hand or with the PC I found, from this forum, that the best way to work a polish is to rub it in until turns more clear and almost disappears then wipe off. Most pure polish/glazes do not require you to wait before buffing off the residue.

**BradE** · 01-09-2002, 08:20 PM

Tony,

I have found that Meguiars #7 can require some serious buffing by hand to remove it. For ease of use I think 3M IHG would be your best bet. :up

**Chuckmotor** · 01-09-2002, 08:25 PM

and it only works well for newer cars. I`ve spent many a painful hour buffing the #7!!

**imported_Intermezzo** · 01-09-2002, 08:38 PM

OK, thanks! I`m sure glad I asked before I ran out and bought some of it! So, can I assume that #9 is tough to buff as well?

**YoSteve** · 01-09-2002, 08:42 PM

Intermezzo, for starters try not getting so many black cars

or as many cars for that matter, I believe you have even more cars than this since you at least have to have a VW to be on vortex

j/k of course, try to get someone else (you live in LA, there are some autopians in CA, I know this cause they chat about CA geography all the time

) or an approved professional to do it.

Use Klasse or Zaino and cover up the swirls as best you can, using IHG or Meguires to cover up will do the job but you have to cover up every other week which is as bad for your shoulders anyways.

Why not invest in a rotary? I don`t get the question.

**imported_Intermezzo** · 01-09-2002, 08:55 PM

YoSteve, hehe, I don`t have a VW... But don`t tell that to the people over at Vortex!

I wanted a VW, but as you`ll soon discover one day when you get married, `what you want and what you actually get` bear little resemblance to each other if the wife doesn`t agree!

I guess my question is a bit confusing. Someone from Meguiar`s customer care told me that #9 & #7 are identical except #9 has some cleaning solvents in it. So I`m assuming that if #7 is hard to buff, then so is #9. Does that make sense?

I came pretty close recently to buying a PC 7336, but heck, I live in a condo and I`d have to buy a 150 ft extension cord if I wanted to be able to use it. Too much trouble.

As for having to use it every other week, a lot of the people at VWVort seem to be able to make their IHG + Blitz coats last for 2 months or more. Is that an incorrect impression?

**iforcev8** · 01-09-2002, 09:51 PM

Meguiars #7 and especially #26 in paste form is a pain to buff. Using #26 for a few times is what made me get Zaino. I am never going back to carnuba waxes.

**Chuckmotor** · 01-09-2002, 10:03 PM

I`ve never encountered a problem buffing the #26. I`ve used it a ton of times on different cars, and if the wax sits on the car for at least 20 minutes, it virtually wipes right off. However, on some cars I have noticed certain areas that need a little QDing, but a squirt and a few swipes and that`s fixed. Never have I had problem with the buffing, though. The #7, however, is a different story... but I continue to use it on other people`s newer cars, despite the pain in buffing.

**iforcev8** · 01-09-2002, 10:07 PM

Are you using paste or liquid? I always have a hard time with Paste. It all started with Turtle wax paste back in the days. I tried Final Inspection on the towel, and it still was a pain to get off. Maybe because I live in a dry area?

**Chuckmotor** · 01-09-2002, 10:09 PM

You`re right, the paste can be a pain. The liquid is no problem at all!

**rstype** · 01-09-2002, 10:39 PM

IMHO, any abrasive will need energy to use, as its purpose is to slowly break down, removing a small amount of paint so it gets leveled to the swirlÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s depth. Factors include heat, speed, and coarseness, but the purpose of the product is all the same: To remove paint. Perhaps Ã¢â‚¬Å“Buffered-AbrasivesÃ¢â‚¬ may make a small difference.

But for waxes and sealants, I guess itÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s a different story.

**YoSteve** · 01-09-2002, 11:40 PM

<blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

<em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by Intermezzo330I [/i]
<strong class=`bbc`>As for having to use it every other week, a lot of the people at VWVort seem to be able to make their IHG + Blitz coats last for 2 months or more. Is that an incorrect impression? [/b]</blockquote>
That`s not the IHG, that`s the Blitz

Blitz is great stuff, IMO.

**imported_doug** · 01-09-2002, 11:54 PM

I`m not a huge fan of #7, but when I was using it more I found an easy solution to easing the hard-to-buff-off problem - a little detail spray works wonders.

**iforcev8** · 01-10-2002, 12:21 AM

<blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

<em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by Chuckmotor [/i]
<strong class=`bbc`>You`re right, the paste can be a pain. The liquid is no problem at all! [/b]</blockquote>
I wonder if there is a difference, in terms of protection because the paste is such a pain to use.