My experience with of why to clay is to remove these four types of contaminants found on the paint:
1) Tree sap from parking under or near such trees
2) Road tar residue, after first removing the majority of it with a tar-remover.
3) Paint over-spray, and that can come from a variety of sources, including highway road striping or parking near a building being painted on a windy day OR the unfortunate experience of unavoidably driving though a paint-spill accident .
4) Ferrous or iron contamination from rail dust during transport and/or brake rotor from daily vehicle use.
I still clay using a clay bar. It might be time to consider "upgrading" to the newer clay mitts.
I`ve only used a mild clay (the ubiquitous clay-standard Blue Magic), but even with judicious rubbing and the correct amount of clay lube (Meg`s Mirror Glaze No. 34 Final Inspection), still induce some marring, especially for stubborn-to-remove highway paint over-spray or industrial paint. Yes, I figure I can polish that out, but not always.
Your question to clay or not on a brand-new vehicle is a good one. Chances are it only has iron-ferrous rust flakes and a liquid ferrous decontaminate will remove that, but hence, the suggestions for a visual and tactile inspection are required to REALLY know what is on your new vehicle paint, and if found, that their removal may require a mechanical claying by whatever method (old-school bar or new-school mitt) for a truly clean paint surface.
Let us know what you find and how you removed it.
GB detailer
Hi Dan
Yes, it`s 3 steps and yes it can leave the paint very smooth. However if you determine the paint is quite contaminated to begin with, I`d suggest using clay during step B. I never had to do this though. I understand B can eat clay so have plenty on hand to do this step.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks