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  1. #16
    bob m's Avatar
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    Re: Spring decontamination questions

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    I would ad a tar remover before the iron remover is used. It`s great for getting the road film build up on the side panels and the back of the car. And see if it do any cleaning on the other panels too.
    Good idea! Thanks.
    Likes SWETM liked this post

  2. #17
    BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: Spring decontamination questions

    Did this today with wife`s daily driver, hasnt been washed since probably November.

    While I usually use Gyeon Foam for foaming, saw I had a bottle of Griots Foaming Surface Wash so used that instead.

    SunJoe SPX3100 pressure washer w a MTM PF22 cannon and one of those MTM Snub Guns.

    1. Pressure rinse
    2. Foam
    3. Pressure rinse
    4. Bucket wash with Reset
    5. Flood rinse
    6. Gyeon Tar on entire vehicle
    7. Agitate with Gyeon Silk Mitt
    8. Pressure rinse
    9. Flood rinse
    10. Gyeon Iron on entire vehicle
    11. Agitate with Gyeon Silk Mitt
    12. Pressure rinse
    13. Flood rinse
    14. Foam
    15. Pressure rinse
    16. `Rain` rinse
    17. Bucket wash w Reset
    18. Flood rinse
    19. Dry w Platinum Pluffle using Overcoat as drying aid.

    Final flood rinse indicated coating was pretty much as applied except for small spot on passenger side back corner/bumper.

    Apparently at some point over winter some incompetant in a larger vehicle cranked the wheel too hard when backing out of parking space next to car, hit car and scuffed that corner. 2 small chips/dings that are into plastic bumper cover and a 2" x 6" area/stripe of scuffing as they continued to back up after initial contact; bummer.

    Regardless, coating appears in top shape, applied 10/2016 albeit only 17k miles ago. Until I saw the scuffs and dings, was gonna let this one go another year before re-doing but dunno now. And therein lies a disadvantage to coatings...fixing small areas when the rest of the vehicle doesn`t need it.

    As far as stripping winter off the surface, each step proved beneficial, some more than others. The greatest single difference was made by Gyeon Tar. The least effective was the foaming; based on past cleanups Gyeon Foam was more effective than the Griots used this time.

    The Gyeon Iron didnt really produce any bleeding effect, even on wheels (coated last summer) but when I`ve used Sonax, CarPro and Optimum iron removers in this capacity I never really see any bleeding.

    In any event, given water behavior on final pre-Overcoat rinse, all areas of paint are still excellent as far as coating performance goes. Oddly, the vertical panel of trunk lid seemed to take more of a beating than lower side panels of car this winter...took the most `chemical attention` to revive.

    If not for the scuffing/dings on lower, back corner I woulda let this one ride for another 12 months.

    Such is life...
    Likes The Guz, nickclark08, SWETM, lloydrm liked this post

  3. #18
    Hooked For Life Bill D's Avatar
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    Re: Spring decontamination questions

    Good job! I didnít think there was another extreme wash regimen. I admire the 18 step wash process although Iím sticking with Accumulatorís via foam gun. Just did my dadís van this way today.
    Treat it like it`s the only one in the world.
    Likes BudgetPlan1 liked this post

  4. #19
    BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: Spring decontamination questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill D View Post
    Good job! I didn’t think there was another extreme wash regimen. I admire the 18 step wash process although I’m sticking with Accumulator’s via foam gun. Just did my dad’s van this way today.
    Actually, sounds far more involved than it was, maybe 2.5hrs tops. Will add that the WeatherTech Cleaner and Dressing did wonders on the extremely trashed mats with very little effort.
    Likes Oneheadlite liked this post

  5. #20
    Hooked For Life Bill D's Avatar
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    Re: Spring decontamination questions

    I will be sure to keep the Weathertech cleaner in mind then. This is the first Iím hearing about it.
    Treat it like it`s the only one in the world.

  6. #21

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    Re: Spring decontamination questions

    BudgetPlan1- Gee, that was an awful lot to get done in just 2.5 hours!

  7. #22
    BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: Spring decontamination questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    BudgetPlan1- Gee, that was an awful lot to get done in just 2.5 hours!
    Pretty small car...

    Seeing that someone hit it over the winter at some point was a real drag cuz after it was cleaned up, that coating woulda made it another year easy....maybe another 2 years even.

  8. #23
    bob m's Avatar
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    Re: Spring decontamination questions

    Quote Originally Posted by BudgetPlan1 View Post
    Actually, sounds far more involved than it was, maybe 2.5hrs tops. Will add that the WeatherTech Cleaner and Dressing did wonders on the extremely trashed mats with very little effort.
    I would be interested to hear more about WT`s Cleaner and Dressing. I bought a similar product from Chemical Guys and used it again yesterday but was no better than something like Simple Green or even a dishwashing soap. And it added no shine or protection that I can see.

  9. #24

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    Re: Spring decontamination questions

    Quote Originally Posted by BudgetPlan1 View Post
    Did this today with wife`s daily driver, hasnt been washed since probably November.

    While I usually use Gyeon Foam for foaming, saw I had a bottle of Griots Foaming Surface Wash so used that instead.

    SunJoe SPX3100 pressure washer w a MTM PF22 cannon and one of those MTM Snub Guns.

    1. Pressure rinse
    2. Foam
    3. Pressure rinse
    4. Bucket wash with Reset
    5. Flood rinse
    6. Gyeon Tar on entire vehicle
    7. Agitate with Gyeon Silk Mitt
    8. Pressure rinse
    9. Flood rinse
    10. Gyeon Iron on entire vehicle
    11. Agitate with Gyeon Silk Mitt
    12. Pressure rinse
    13. Flood rinse
    14. Foam
    15. Pressure rinse
    16. `Rain` rinse
    17. Bucket wash w Reset
    18. Flood rinse
    19. Dry w Platinum Pluffle using Overcoat as drying aid.

    Final flood rinse indicated coating was pretty much as applied except for small spot on passenger side back corner/bumper.

    Apparently at some point over winter some incompetant in a larger vehicle cranked the wheel too hard when backing out of parking space next to car, hit car and scuffed that corner. 2 small chips/dings that are into plastic bumper cover and a 2" x 6" area/stripe of scuffing as they continued to back up after initial contact; bummer.

    Regardless, coating appears in top shape, applied 10/2016 albeit only 17k miles ago. Until I saw the scuffs and dings, was gonna let this one go another year before re-doing but dunno now. And therein lies a disadvantage to coatings...fixing small areas when the rest of the vehicle doesn`t need it.

    As far as stripping winter off the surface, each step proved beneficial, some more than others. The greatest single difference was made by Gyeon Tar. The least effective was the foaming; based on past cleanups Gyeon Foam was more effective than the Griots used this time.

    The Gyeon Iron didnt really produce any bleeding effect, even on wheels (coated last summer) but when I`ve used Sonax, CarPro and Optimum iron removers in this capacity I never really see any bleeding.

    In any event, given water behavior on final pre-Overcoat rinse, all areas of paint are still excellent as far as coating performance goes. Oddly, the vertical panel of trunk lid seemed to take more of a beating than lower side panels of car this winter...took the most `chemical attention` to revive.

    If not for the scuffing/dings on lower, back corner I woulda let this one ride for another 12 months.

    Such is life...
    Interesting the difference between Gyeon Foam and GG Foam Surface Wash. And thanks for shareing the results from the tar remover. I feel sometimes I`m about the only one to keep recommending the use of a tar remover on winter dirty vehicals LOL. As your results that`s what makes the biggest difference when used and being revive the hydrophobic caractics back. Also it does very much more on a paint as yours when it`s not been washed over a longer time to aggitate it a little too. My maintance washes is like this during winter months except the first Reset wash and I only apply the tar remover and if needed the iron remover without aggitations. But for the big decon wash this is a very good method to get the paint as clean as possible.

    Some iron removers when they have a high content of the iron remover chemical in it. They can even start to bleed in the air before hitting the paint and or bleed just from the minerals in the water. So even if you can see it starts to bleed fast it is when the bleeding color gets darker red that you see if you have industrial fallout and the dots bleeding very more intense from iron particals. So sometimes these iron removers can be a little missleading if they really desolves anything.

    It`s really an awesome longevity you have from the Kamikaze coating! And what a bummer with the scuffing and dings.

    / Tony

  10. #25
    BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: Spring decontamination questions

    Quote Originally Posted by bob m View Post
    I would be interested to hear more about WT`s Cleaner and Dressing. I bought a similar product from Chemical Guys and used it again yesterday but was no better than something like Simple Green or even a dishwashing soap. And it added no shine or protection that I can see.
    https://www.autopia-carcare.com/weat...l#.XJo-Rv1Ki00

    Really not much to say about it aside from "It works with minimal effort". The Protector/Dressing returns them to `as new` look, not shiny or glossy in any way, just `clean`. I`ve tried a few other cleaners including TuffShine Tire cleaner and nothing really got thru the nastiness. Couple of sprays, a quick scrub with a TuffSHine tire brush, rinse, dry apply Protectant and good to go. ABout a 15 minute process.


    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    It`s really an awesome longevity you have from the Kamikaze coating! And what a bummer with the scuffing and dings.
    / Tony
    The claimed longevity of the Miyabi/ISM combo is 24-36 months, this particular car will easily surpass that (or would have, anyway). The car only sees about 5000 miles a year, very little freeway and spends the rest of its time just sitting outside in the driveway so it`s an ideal candidate for a coating surpassing claimed longevity. Contrast it to my daily driver that sees about 18-20k miles a year, 95% freeway, and the same combo is getting a little tired at 21 months, 37k miles; still shedding water like a champ but I think it`s 50/50 at this point with regards to the coating doing the heavy lifting and Overcoat providing the majority of self cleaning/hydrophobics. The underlying coating is shedding well on it`s own, but not spectacularly until it gets a bit of Overcoat and then it`s `like new again`.

    In my world, mileage is the true indicator of longevity, not the mere passage of time.

    For now I`ll probably compound/polish the rear lower panel (scuffs) which unfortunately leads to the bumper and around to the other side lower fender (all one plastic piece) and just put some Kami Infinity Wax + Overcoat on it and likely re-do entire car at some point in the Summer when I get bored (Miyabi + Zipang). Back in October 2016 it was the first car I used Kami on and it`s such a cool color that I think I can do better polishing now than I could then so it should be even cooler when re-done. Then again, maybe I won`t ...sometimes things seem like a good idea at the time.

  11. #26
    bob m's Avatar
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    Re: Spring decontamination questions

    Well, it was cold but sunny yesterday here in NE NJ and I had some time on my hands, so I decided to do a quick wash - GG shampoo - would have used their foam hose sprayer, but this is non functional now as this is the second one that stopped working, I`m going to give GG a call or look elsewhere. Note this is the one that attaches to the hose, not to a power washer. Wiped dry with GG PFM towels and their Airstream Drying Gun (small blower).

    For my own simple unscientific test I used GG Best of Show Detailer on one side of my Audi and the other half with Nextzett Perfect Shine Detailer. just to see ease of use, streaking, beading and "durability." Ease of use, steaking and shine were identical to my eyes and durability will take a couple of weeks. Now these are just QD`s that were applied over a coated car topped last fall with Hydrosilex Marine (which worked extremely well protection wise- and my wife`s Outback still shines and beads like crazy even though it has not been washed in months). And in all honesty, I bet there won`t be a discernible difference in shine or "protection" but I like to use them after a wash, even though I will use a coating topper (Nanolex SI) every few months.

    So in the last couple of weeks I bought some new products and waiting on some - Tar Remover - as per recommendations here and I even went for a gallon of Beadmaker - even though I was scratching my head before pulling that trigger. And when the tar remover gets here and I have a full day with the weather cooperating, I will do the full decom and spray sealant thing. And after all that hard work and effort (well it`s actually kinda fun) I will have a pretty well detailed, shiny and protected Audi - just in time for pollen season!

 

 
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