Accumulator,
“Obsessed is a word the lazy use to describe the dedicated”
That process is dedicated!
Thanks for sharing.
Accumulator,
“Obsessed is a word the lazy use to describe the dedicated”
That process is dedicated!
Thanks for sharing.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesLonnie liked this post
Have anyone used a body wax to the undercarige? I know Bilt Hamber has one calded auto-balm that is for both paint and body. They have different things that can be used to the undercarige. And they worked with electronics to hold out corrosion and water to damage the them. A thing like spray wax seems easier to use than ordinary waxes. But they have other products too and they often stop the rust from spreading.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesLEDetailng liked this post
SWETM- Maybe I`m getting confused by the terminology, see if you can bring me up to speed...
There are "Body Cavity Waxes" but those are completely different from "waxes as in `LSPs` ". The BCW are like a form of undercoating/rust-proofing. Are those what you`re referring to? If so, I don`t use them much because they`re not, uhm....what I consider "clean and tidy" but, *IF APPLIED CORRECTLY* can be very helpful in minimizing corrosion.
Another type of product along those lines is something like Amsoil`s Heavy Duty Metal Preserver, which I`ve used on various undervehicle bits that simply MUST remain corrosion free (e.g., the hardware for undervehicle spares).
My 2000 jaguar s-type I bout four years ago. It spent its first fifteen years in Michigan. The first owner took good care of it, but so with the undercarriage. It shows with the difference between the sc430 and the jag. It won`t upload my pictures, I`ll keep trying.
Coleroad- Hey, lucky you that it`s not bad! Many S-types of that era are really beat, though not as badly as most X-types.
Amsoil HD metal protect, when it cures it becomes a dry waxy film........you`ll thank me later
I agree, at least for things that don`t need to be [detailed a certain way]. I`ve used that on the mounting hardware for under-vehicle spares since forever and it`s always kept them corrosion-free, if not exactly concours-nice.
Also great stuff for the exposed ends of u-joints (steering shafts, drivelines, etc.).
For applications where (Black) HD Anti-rust or ValuGard Rust Inhibitor aren`t appropriate, HDMP is really hard to beat. As "waxy" stuff goes, it`s really quite clean. Glad you mentioned it!
The Bilt Hamber Auto-Balm is like a paste wax and in a sealant form like fk1000p but with corrosion inhibitors in it. They are like collonite 845 that came from protecting electronics boards and other electronic circuits I think. So for an example if you have bare metall that you want to stop the rust from spreading you can apply it to that. The parts in the wheel wells is a great place to protect with it. And it goes on transparent when applyied. Works good on paint on the car also. A friend of mine has an Chevrolet Caprice -70 and is the original paint on it. Unfortuneally it got transportation damage when loaded in to the container from the US or when it got unloaded. And it has a not so good with scratches and other dings to the metall. If applying Auto-Balm you stop the rust from spreading with a good wax finish look at the same time. The longevity is really good and on pair with fk1000p and collonite 476s.
So in short it`s a sealant in paste form that you can apply to the whole car body with protection to further corrosion.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesSWETM liked this post
Power line insulators and bushings actually, which is even more impressive, as it (845) is said to increase dielectric strength, which means it makes things "less conductive". So if we wax our cars with 845, we are, technically, less susceptible to electricity as we drive our cars!
OK back on topic, does anyone use Undercarriage sprays like Bare Bones? I recently got an Outback, which shows way more fender well than I`m used to, and I want to keep it nice and black in there.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesSWETM liked this post
I`ve not used bare bones, I use 303 aerospace. It`s still a water based treatment. The more times I`ve used it the better it seems to repel dirt and water. I would say for me anymore, a quick rinse of the wheel wells removes 80% of the dirt. I have seen others use cquartz uk on them, and that was really impressive. So much so I`m considering doing it. The 303, I use it on all the plastic and rubber bits under the car.
Crap know I will ad the 303 aerospace protectant to buy in the near future lol. I have the 303 rubber seal protectant and is very impressed with that.
Have anyone used 303 aerospace protectant to the whole tires and noticed any difference in the wear and tear on them after? Seen an youtuber do that and to all other rubber parts of the car.
i saw the video you`re talking about. I know he said that it doesn`t affect traction, but I don`t see how that can be. Even brand new tires have a loss of traction from the mold release, and it takes some miles to wear that off. I mean 303 will make your rubber floor mats a bit slicker. So to me it only makes sense that it will make the tire slicker. Plus I see it as the reduction in friction with the road is what would reduce the tire wear. The only tire I have covered in 303 completely is the spare tires. Just to prevent dry rotting, and I would only use it for a very short distance anyway.
Just my thoughts on it.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesSWETM liked this post
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