Safe Engine Degreaser around Oil Pan

[jonwb]

Hi,

Recently found some oil/gunk around the oil pan of a 2001 Mustang (only 54k miles!). No puddling on our driveway.. just oily grease. Yesterday, a tire installer did a quick visual and thought it was coming from the "rear main" seal but wasn`t sure. He encouraged me to clean and watch it over time.

Could someone recommend a lightweight degreaser that`ll be less prone to harming gaskets or seals? Or maybe a method to cleaning this area?

Thanks

[Ronkh]

apc

[Setec Astronomy]

I find Optimum Power Clean (OPC) to do an exceptional job on motor oil.

[GearHead_1]

Kinda depends on how you are going to clean it. Do you have a pressure washer? Then a spray on APC is the way to go. If you`re going to lie down and futz with it, a little diesel fuel and a cheap paint brush on a cold engine will cut most greasy messes in short order. Emphasis on cold engine.

[Ronkh]

<--- used to use brake clean & red shop rag.

(but you said safe)

[Accumulator]

jonwb- Welcome to Autopia!

If my Modular had that problem, besides [INSERT admoniton to fix seal here ], I`d clean it up with a safer version of what Ronkh suggested. In other words, some solvent on shop rags. I love solvents for greasy/oily messes...no rinsing is a big part of why.

I`d hazard a guess, and it`s just a guess, that the seepage isn`t caused by a big enough gap that you have to worry about doing damage...as long as you apply some common sense as to how much [whatever you use] and how long you let it dwell.

[Billy Jack]

I do all the oil changes on my family fleet and keep a spray bottle of mineral spirits on my bench at all times.
While the drain pan is still underneath, any oil drips or runs get a healthy shot. You could follow it with an APC or Brake Cleaner if you want it surgically clean.
Mineral spirits is the base component for non-water based parts cleaners, so it won`t hurt anything.

Bill

[Lonnie]

Another "safe" engine solvent is Kano Laboratories Floway, but the chemical is expensive and only sold directly from the manufacturer. I`ve used their penetrating oil, AeroKroil, with great success on rusted nuts and bolts/screws when other penetrants will not work (like OTC Liquid Wrench)
Let us know what the prognosis is after the clean-up, whatever you use on it.

[Mike lambert]

Griot`s engine cleaner

[dschribs]

Carb/throttle body cleaner is what you need. It`s got a powerful stream and dissolves gunk and oil. Most brands have a straw that attaches to the nozzle for getting into tight places.

Sent from my Galaxy Tab S2 using Tapatalk

[Mooser]

Megs D108 degreaser works great and you can dilute it to whatever strength you feel comfortable with.
That said you`d have to left any cleaner sit on there for a long time before it started affecting most seals or gaskets
M

[Don]

WD40 works great for de-greasing & is cheap, BUT it leaves a light film of clear oil.

[Poorboy]

An APC / Degreaser will do the job and use as diluted as possible to get the job done .. BUT be prepared to open a Pandora`s box if the seal has a slow leak after 16 years and you remove some of the gunk (couldn`t think of a better word) .. you may completely ruin the seal and you will have struck oil and a whole lot more headaches ... (been there done that)

[Lonnie]

When I looked at Ron`s "Pandora`s Box" about the gunk acting as a self-made "BandAid" on a seal, it would make sense in some situations.

Working in mechanical design I know there are SO MANY different seal designs (single lip, double lip, spring-loaded, etc) and material types (Butyl Rubber, Viton, silicone, felt, etc) used for seals.
Most seals fail for a number of reasons:
1) Wear from friction OR environmental elements, like dirt or paper dust or chemical process fumes (most common)
2) Age (especially rubber)
3) Incompatibility with fluid or gas trying to be sealed (like gasoline with neoprene rubber)
4) Wrong seal design or wrong tolerances on housing for seal for application (happens when engineer "just picks one" or "copies" previous (bad)design for new design)
5) Improper installation by mechanic/service tech (hammer and "right sized" socket being a common method instead of correct special tool and arbor press)

Any one who has worked on or serviced cars or machinery for any length of time has experienced one of these situations. In your situation, I suspect it`s age, even with the lower mileage.

Engineers and designers get the blame for a lot of seal problems, and rightly so when you look at the list above. However, a really good seal may be deemed too expensive an option during a cost analysis design review. It always pained me when this was done. It`s the "penny wise/pound foolish" approach, BUT If (and I repeat, IF) it lasts as long as warranty of the vehicle or machine, then using the cheaper seal is the "fiscally correct" solution. With the advent of computer design and material simulation analysis programs, engineers can "design" products for just that length of warranty time. It`s called "design obsolescence" and it`s an integral part of every manufacturing business economy and product you buy today. It`s also the reason why the energy-efficient refrigerator you bought for your house 5 years ago is on the fritz while the old Kelvenator fridge your grandfather bought in 1962 that you inherited and is now in the garage storing your carnauba waxes,welding rods, fishing bait (wax worms), and "favorite beverages" is still running strong and cold!
Sorry to rant and rave about this off topic.... just had to vent.

[Accumulator]

Fortunately the Ford Modular is a good design with regard to longevity/weird issues. Change out that old seal and it oughta be fine for a long, long time.