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  1. #1

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    May 2009
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    I want to keep it semi-simple this time around and not spend big bucks like a lift for example, because my neighborhood ASSociation will not allow it and a garage drain is prohibited too. I have so far is hot and cold water outlets, telephone jacks, 7 electrical outlets, 6 overhead lighting fixtures / 2 metal hilades, stereo speaker wiring, ethernet connections, iDrive garage opener and what else? I will do the shelving and cabinets later. Maybe a heating system since I do live in Ohio?



    Thanks!

  2. #2

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    Sep 2004
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    Tempe, AZ
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    If you have soft water conditioner plumb a line into the garage.

    It is not so much how many duplex plugs you have but how many amps. Have you considered an air compressor? Perhaps a cable outlet as well?

  3. #3

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    Oct 2004
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    Are the hot and cold outlets for a sink? I have a deepwell sink in my garage and it`s invaluable. Make sure you get a sprayhead on the sink.



    You might consider doing one wall in pegboard.



    If you plan on heating the garage at some point, you`ll want insulated walls and garage doors.



    Consider installing a good sized air compressor in a fixed/semi fixed location and plumbing fixed air lines to strategic points around the garage. You can do a good sized shop-vac the same way.



    For the electrical, you should have two 20 amp circuits for the outlets. Every other outlet should be on the same circuit so in the unlikely event you would need more than 20 amps at the same time, you would have it available all around the garage. Nothing else should be on the circuits with the outlets. All outlets you intend to use tools on should be GFCI protected.



    Since you have so many lights, you may want to have them on two different switches. That way you don`t have everything on when you don`t need as much light.



    Ceiling fans and/or an exhaust fan would be nice in the summer.



    Next to both of my garage door openers, I have a retractable power cord mounted to the ceiling. This allows me to use my PC all around my vehicle without messing with extension cords.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
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    http://www.ultimategarage.com/UltGar2.htm



    I`m sorry for posting it, because now it`s going to make you spend more than you likely were before

  5. #5

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    Jan 2010
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    More lights and outlets! LOL and make sure that you have a seperate breaker box for the garage IN the garage. Too many people just tap into the house and leave it like that. If a breaker blows you have to go downstairs or wherever your box is to fix. Oh and 220V would be a major plus!

  6. #6
    OI812's Avatar
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    May 2004
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    Is the garage attached or unattached? I would put a sub-panel in the garage. One with at least 20 or 30 spaces for breakers. I would make sure the sub-panel is feed by at least 60 amps, but more preferably a 100 amp breaker.



    On the hose bibbs I will post the links to the one`s I like.



    The one I have on my house is a Woodford Model 22



    The one I`m going to be installing on my house is a Woodford Model 67



    If you need pricing let me know, I may be able to help.

  7. #7

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    May 2009
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    Thanks for the replies, the hot and cold is for the hose and it`s in a "mixer" thingy, I will have another hot and cold plastic tub for washing parts and stuff too. The garage will be attached to the back of the house, the separate fuse panel sounds like a good idea too, along with a compressor! More money...

  8. #8

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    Mar 2009
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    Exterior lights, but add an additional switch in the bedroom so you can turn it off when you forget it without having to wander the house or go into the garage to get those outside lights off. All of our outside floods are also switched in the bedroom as well as at the appropriate doors; and it is great!!!

  9. #9
    OI812's Avatar
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    May 2004
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    Oh yea make sure the cold to the hose bibb is cold SOFT. Or put in a seperate one that is cold hard, So that you can have all soft water on the mixing valve.

  10. #10

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    Oct 2004
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    Originally posted by autoracer1

    http://www.ultimategarage.com/UltGar2.htm



    I`m sorry for posting it, because now it`s going to make you spend more than you likely were before
    Nice. Next time I get my $500,000 paycheck, I`ll start building it.:shocked

  11. #11

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    May 2009
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    I have a 2 1/2 Insulated Garage Door and it clearly reduces heating/cooling costs but also noise transmission to the house. Nice as I find I spend mostly evening and late night hours in the garage.

  12. #12

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    What I really want to do is paint the floor, but how long should want until the concrete is fully cured? I read about Rustoleum, but the durability was questionable.

  13. #13

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    Originally posted by armoredsaintt

    What I really want to do is paint the floor, but how long should want until the concrete is fully cured? I read about Rustoleum, but the durability was questionable.


    Screw Rustoleum on the floor. This is what you want: http://ucoatit.com/ I would talk to the concrete contractor to see how long to wait to make sure it does not void your concrete warranty. Maybe even contact your states concrete agency if they have one and see if they have information.

  14. #14

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    May 2009
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    Thanks 2001civicex, that will be my choice. Do you have experience with it and how many years on your garage floors so far?

  15. #15
    Super Enthusiast SilverLexus's Avatar
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    Apr 2004
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    My neighbor did his garage with HNC, a concrete stain from Sherwin Williams and it has held up well. I think stains are much better than paints since I am told they soak into the concrete and are more resistant to moisture.
    Lee
    ES330 in Millenium Silver

 

 
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