Jacking up the car-options...

**wifehatescar** · 11-03-2003, 08:28 PM

Yeah, thanks anyway. The only thing I can think of is using the timber idea and then jacking on the pinch weld on the side of the car. That would lift, say, the drivers side and then I could place each jackstand on the drivers side.

I still don`t see how unsafe scissor jacks are on a stable flat garage floor taking wheels on/off with an air impact gun --- the car would not have any side to side forces on it (as if I was using a 2` breaker bar to take the wheel lugs off). And if the worst happens, I`m not under the car at all anyway...

**shaf** · 11-04-2003, 12:24 AM

I apologize if I missed something in my reading, but does the Acura Integra not have a front jacking point specifically made for a floor jack?

As far as I know, 99% of ALL cars should have one of these on each end....

Do you have a body kit or air dam that makes it so that you cannot get the jack under the front of your car or something? :nixweiss

Jacking points for both stands/2 post lift and front and rear jack points should be clearly labeled in an owner`s manual diagram or at LEAST in any repair manual...

**medic** · 11-04-2003, 02:49 AM

Originally posted by wifehatescar

I think you missed my question a bit. If I did put jackstands on the mount points, where would I lift the car at with the hydraulic jack to get the jackstands under it in the first place? That is my problem/issue.

Or to say this a different way, suppose the are (4) 4"x1" lifting points for the car (which is true). How would I get a jackstand under any of them with a hydraulic jack. To me it`s a bit of a puzzle...

i.e. lift 1 point with the jack, ok......now what to do with the jackstand since the hydraulic jack is in the way?

Sorry, I misunderstood, but you can use any point along the scisor jack rail to lift the car. The notches are just there for best placement suggestions. Jack the car with your hydraulic jack at any point on that rail and place your jack stands at the notches.

Looking at my maxima and 626 FSM, they both have jack points for the front and rear of the car. They tend to be around the axle, but there is a small (4x4) section on the underside that can be used as a floor jack point. I think this is the same thing 4DSC is talking about

Check your chilton`s manual, it should show these positions.

**wifehatescar** · 11-04-2003, 07:52 AM

Hmm, I thought it was just the 4 points mentioned but maybe there are ones in the front and back. None that I`m aware of right now though, but I`ll look into it. Thanks for the suggestion / comments! I can get a jack under the front but just barely.

**PAW** · 11-04-2003, 09:33 AM

Originally posted by medic

The notches are just there for best placement suggestions. Jack the car with your hydraulic jack at any point on that rail and place your jack stands at the notches.

UH! With uni-body construction, those notches are re-enforcements. If you try to jack along the "frame" at other points on the side, you bend the uni-body. How do I know? I tried.

I thought this might be the case. So, I went very slow and only got a tiny dent in the "frame" of my Acura TL. On this car, there are jack point at the front and rear. A floor jack can be used there.

**wifehatescar** · 11-04-2003, 10:56 AM

Originally posted by PAW

UH! With uni-body construction, those notches are re-enforcements. If you try to jack along the "frame" at other points on the side, you bend the uni-body. How do I know? I tried. I thought this might be the case. So, I went very slow and only got a tiny dent in the "frame" of my Acura TL. On this car, there are jack point at the front and rear. A floor jack can be used there.

The plot thickens.....

PAW-Do you think a piece of wood between the jack and frame would have helped in your case?

**PAW** · 11-04-2003, 01:02 PM

Perhaps. I just put the saddle, about 2" - 3" diameter, up against the "frame". I would not risk trying the piece of wood but it would spread out the load. I had wanted to jack up one wheel, put a jackstand under it, move to the other side, jack it up and put a jack stand there also. I`ll use the front and rear jack points next time and put the jack stands under the reenforced side jack points. Which reminds me it time to put the winter wheels on.

**butchdave** · 11-04-2003, 03:09 PM

Originally posted by wifehatescar

PAW-Do you think a piece of wood between the jack and frame would have helped in your case?

To jump in here - I always use a pad between jack and jacking point to avoid scratches

**albtsang** · 11-05-2003, 11:14 PM

I`m sure that the Integra has a owner`s group with a message board somewhere on the internet. I`m sure that any search engine will find it within milliseconds, so why not try asking them what they do.

On my Probe GT, I have jack points under the front of the car using a crossmember and the A-arm attachment points on the rear. Then there are jack stand points on the unibody.

On the BMW, I have no idea - probably won`t be doing much work on it myself since I have 4 year free (pre-paid) maintenance.

So just take a look at the owner`s group or do a search online. Or better yet, I have done it for you...

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/F...oilchange.html or at least this is part of it. The web is a wealth of information, you just have to know how to use it.

**shaf** · 11-06-2003, 02:16 AM

Originally posted by wifehatescar

The plot thickens.....

PAW-Do you think a piece of wood between the jack and frame would have helped in your case?

Sorry, I`m not PAW, but I`d never risk putting jacks or stands anywhere on the car`s body or crossmembers unless I`m sure it was safe or was an approved reinforced lift point.

A piece of wood might help distribute the force out a bit more, but you`d still cause damage to the vehicle just because nowhere else on that lower body seam is it designed to support the car`s weight. It will bend, buckle, or even cave in.

**tom p.** · 11-06-2003, 07:18 AM

I picked up one of these:

...and it works well.

link

**PAW** · 11-06-2003, 08:28 AM

Originally posted by 4DSC

Sorry, I`m not PAW, but I`d never risk putting jacks or stands anywhere on the car`s body or crossmembers unless I`m sure it was safe or was an approved reinforced lift point.

A piece of wood might help distribute the force out a bit more, but you`d still cause damage to the vehicle just because nowhere else on that lower body seam is it designed to support the car`s weight. It will bend, buckle, or even cave in.

Yep! I`m a believer now. Fortunately I was a scheptic (sp?) when I tried this so there is mininal damage. I wouldn`t try it with a piece of wood.

We need to remember that the unibody is the frame. If it gets bent up, you can affect handling and safety. The frame/unibody is part of what keeps you safe in a crash.

**albtsang** · 11-06-2003, 08:40 AM

I would not use wood between my jack and my car. I have had a 2x4 split and the car come crashing down. Fortunately, I was not under the car at the time.

After that one time, I have been very cautious about getting under the car and also got a top-sider to change the oil.

So, either do it right, or don`t do it at all. It`s not woth it if you get hurt while doing it.

**wifehatescar** · 11-06-2003, 12:49 PM

What`s a top-sider?

**albtsang** · 11-06-2003, 12:55 PM

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MIT-7201.html

It lets me drain the oil through the dipstick tube. On my BMW, the oil filter is on the top, so no need to crawl under the car. On my Probe GT, the oil filter is easily accessible because it is on the front, bottom of the car. So no need to jack up either cars to get to the oil filter.