M3 is Revived and Coated with Optimum Gloss Coat

[zmcgovern45]

The owner of this vehicle contacted me because he had noticed his paint didn`t have the gloss and shine that it should. He had told me that the previous owner had taken the vehicle through automatic car washes regularly, and that the dealership had also washed it on numerous occasions. Upon my initial inspection, it was clear that the vehicle would definitely benefit from a proper paint correction to remove many of the defects that covered the surface. The owner was also interested in a long term protection for his vehicle as it is driven all year round. For this, we used the newest product from Optimum Polymer Technologies called Gloss Coat. This ceramic coating will help to provide years of durable protection and gloss when properly maintained. After many, many hours of work, the paint looked gorgeous! Check it out.


Process
Tires: Tuf Shine Tire Cleaner & Tire Brush
Wheels: Sonax FE & Iron X with Wheel Woolies, Boars Hair Wheel Brush, and other misc tools/brushes
Wash: CG Citrus Wash
Iron Removal: CarPro Iron X
Tar Removal: Stoner Tarminator
Decontamination: Nanoskin Fine Grade Mitt with Glide as Lubrication
Tape off areas of concern
Paint Thickness Measurements Taken
Compounding/Cutting: HD Cut & M101 on Meguiar`s MF Cutting Pad via Rupes LHR21ES & Rupes LHR75e
Polishing: CarPro Reflect on Rupes Yellow Foam via Rupes LHR21ES & Rupes LHR75e
Surface Prep: CarPro Eraser
Ceramic Paint Coating: Optimum Gloss Coat
Exhaust Tips: CG Metal Polish + Protection. Inner surfaces & heavy buildup with #0000 Steel Wool. All other surfaces with MF towel by hand.
Glass: Meguiar`s D120 & DI Glass Towels
Tire Dressing: CarPro PERL (1:1) 2 coats
Wheel Sealant: CarPro HydrO2



Before

The vehicle arrived with a fair amount of dirt and contamination on it









The wheels were covered with brake dust and road grime





The exhaust was very dull and had a thick layer of carbon buildup on the tips






During

As always, we began with the wheels & tires. Notice how dull the wheels look.





First, the tires were cleaned. The tire cleaner will turn brown as it is agitated when there is dirt present.





The tires are rinsed and scrubbed numerous times until the cleaner remains white which indicates they tires are clean.





Next, the wheels are thoroughly covered with wheel cleaner and left to dwell.





As the wheel cleaner reacts with embedded brake dust, it turns to a bright purple as it works to loosen the contamination from the wheels all before I even begin cleaning.





The barrels were then cleaned, and an immense amount of grime was removed (notice the river of dirt flowing onto the ground)





The faces were then cleaned, and the wheels were now bright and alive.





The wheels were sealed to provide a temporary barrier between the surface of the wheels and the environment. This sealant will make them easier to clean while it lasts.









The exterior of the vehicle was then washed and decontaminated. Here is a friendly reminder of why we use the 2 bucket washing method to clean the paint. The wash water stays nice and clean while the rinse water is filled with the dirt that is being removed from the surface. This is the safest way to wash your vehicle as it ensures you are not wiping harmful debris on your paint while washing.





Once the paint was clean, it was then inspected for defects. The overhead fluorescent lighting was all that was needed to see this paint had some serious defects in it.





The paint thickness was also checked, and was found to be quite thin. This means we will have to proceed with caution and will not be able to safely remove many of the heavier defects. As always, we are more concerned with the safety of our customer`s vehicles than with achieving a flawless finish... especially on a vehicle this is driven everyday and will accumulate more defects overtime.





We began our correction process on the hood. Notice the scratches are quite severe in many areas.





The vast majority of the defects were removed during the compounding process.





Fender before correction





Fender after compounding





Door before correction





50/50 of door after compounding

[zmcgovern45]

Upper section of door before correction





After compounding





Rear quarter before correction





Rear quarter after compounding





Rear bumper before correction





Rear bumper after compounding





The trunk was in very poor shape





50/50 on trunk





Trunk after compounding. Many deeper scratches remain, but overall color and clarity was greatly improved.






Rear bumper before correction





Rear bumper after compounding





Door before correction





Door after compounding





Door before correction





Door after compounding





This 50/50 shot shows the depth and richness that is achieved with the final finishing polish. The right hand side has been polished to remove the haze that was left after compounding. The metallic flake really comes alive with this refinement.







50/50 on the door pillars (this paint was extremely thin! <50 microns, so only a medium polish was used)





After the paint was fully corrected and wiped down with Eraser, I began to apply Optimum Gloss Coat.





You can see the initial application on this panel (this was roughly 45 seconds after start of application)





After a couple of minutes the majority of the product had flashed away and only some heavier spots remained





These were quickly and easily leveled with a microfiber towel.





More high spots





Again, these were easily leveled with a microfiber towel after several minutes... check out that reflection!





After the coating was applied, the car was brought outside for further inspection. It looked incredible.





The next day I started by cleaning up the exhaust tips. Notice they are quite dull and have a lot of carbon buildup on the tips.





They look as good as new after polishing





Polished tips on the right, unpolished on the left





All cleaned up

[zmcgovern45]

After

Though many deeper defects remain in the paint, the transformation was still incredible. The overall clarity, depth, and gloss in the paint was dramatically improved throughout the correction process and now the car looks absolutely beautiful!


























And, of course, a couple of beading shots...







As always, thanks for reading!

[ShaneB]

Wow. Amazing work. Too bad the paint was thin and you couldn`t get better correction. Still an amazing turnaround.

Ive heard you don`t get much product with gloss coat. how much did you have left when all was said and done?

[zmcgovern45]

Wow. Amazing work. Too bad the paint was thin and you couldn`t get better correction. Still an amazing turnaround.



Ive heard you don`t get much product with gloss coat. how much did you have left when all was said and done?

Thanks... In all reality, the remaining defects are negligible compared to what we started with. The customer was seeking an increase in gloss and we surely delivered. Also, a 2 step job was agreed upon, but should he have wanted to further refine the surface a 3rd step would have been required.

As far as gloss coat goes, you get 10cc (half as much as 2.0)... I used 4-5cc for this vehicle, which is the same product usage I saw out of 2.0 and OCP. My tube of gloss coat had a bit more than 10cc, so I could have easily done 2 average size cars with one tube.

[Don]

Nice work on the M3, what did the owner have to say about your results?

[zmcgovern45]

Nice work on the M3, what did the owner have to say about your results?

Thanks... He hasn`t seen it yet... He will be picking it up this evening

[JSFM35X]

Great work, I was also interested in the usage, did you do the wheels as well.

5 CC per car is great coverage. I used to get 1 car per tube of OC. It was an MDX and included the wheels. Trying to figure if I used too much? What was your applicator. Mine was the Yellow foam disk it came with. If I did not use enough OC 2.0 it would squeak like crazy.

I made it 2 years with the OC 2.0 and I need to do something as the beading is 100&#37; gone. I tried a decon wash, Iron X and a light clay and the beading is still poor in my opinion. I like nice tight beads. I guess 2 years is good durability but I was hoping for more just based on the posts I have read. I realize gloss coat is new so durability is still to be proven. I might jump in an try it over the OC 2.0.

[zmcgovern45]

Great work, I was also interested in the usage, did you do the wheels as well.



5 CC per car is great coverage. I used to get 1 car per tube of OC. It was an MDX and included the wheels. Trying to figure if I used too much? What was your applicator. Mine was the Yellow foam disk it came with. If I did not use enough OC 2.0 it would squeak like crazy.



I made it 2 years with the OC 2.0 and I need to do something as the beading is 100% gone. I tried a decon wash, Iron X and a light clay and the beading is still poor in my opinion. I like nice tight beads. I guess 2 years is good durability but I was hoping for more just based on the posts I have read. I realize gloss coat is new so durability is still to be proven. I might jump in an try it over the OC 2.0.

I did not do the wheels on this particular vehicle.

I use the CarPro applicator block and suede cloth for all coatings. This system uses WAY less product compared to traditional yellow foam applicators as the CarPro block does not soak up/waste product. I would use around 4-5cc of 2.0 on a vehicle this size as well.

Keep in mind... Just because the beading is gone doesn`t mean the coating is gone. It could still be on the surface and provide a barrier between the environment and the paint (no way to really know), but you could simply use a product like CarPro Reload to provide additional protection and restore hydrophobic properties.

[bswombaugh]

Great work and a great turnaround ! Do you typically find that the BMW`s have thin paint from the factory or had this vehicle had any previous corrections ?

What are your initial impressions of the Gloss Coat compared to 2.0 ? I am thinking of coating my personal vehicle with it.

[ShaneB]

Thanks... In all reality, the remaining defects are negligible compared to what we started with. The customer was seeking an increase in gloss and we surely delivered. Also, a 2 step job was agreed upon, but should he have wanted to further refine the surface a 3rd step would have been required.

At what point do you say its too thin and you cant or wont try to achieve anymore correction?

[zmcgovern45]

Great work and a great turnaround ! Do you typically find that the BMW`s have thin paint from the factory or had this vehicle had any previous corrections ?

What are your initial impressions of the Gloss Coat compared to 2.0 ? I am thinking of coating my personal vehicle with it.

^Good questions.... this particular vehicle was quite a bit thinner than most BMW`s I have worked on (which is quite a lot, relatively speaking). Usually, paint thickness is around 110-120 microns, however it can vary. The 75-85 micron average on this vehicle were quite low. Given the age of this car (2011), I wanted to help restore the paint to a condition the owner could be proud of while leaving enough paint to allow for future polishing when needed.

While there were some signs that the vehicle had previously been "buffed" due to the holograms present on many panels, there is no way to know how much material the vehicle started with when it was brand new. My wife`s mazda, for instance, averaged around 70 microns and that is just because Mazda paint tends to be very thin. Again, the goal here was simply to revive the paint without being too invasive as the car will surely need future polishing.

At what point do you say its too thin and you cant or wont try to achieve anymore correction?

There is no right answer to this question unless you have an ultrasonic PTG that is capable of reading exact clear coat thickness. The electronic PTG that many of us rely on measures total film thickness, and therefore we have to make assumptions about how much clear is remaining (keyword being assumption).

In general, thickness readings below 90 microns are deemed quite thin... I`d say the majority of OEM paint falls into the 100-130 micron range and would be called average... anything over 150 is fairly high for OEM paint. Repainted or repaired panels are often much thicker.

Now, I surely could have pushed a bit further and achieved a nearly flawless finish, but many factors played into my decision to leave the vehicle as you see it in the photos.... First, the customer`s budget only allowed for a 2 step correction process. Second, the customer was seeking restored gloss and depth in his paint which was certainly achieved. Third, the vehicle is driven in all seasons and will surely see its fair share of use over the next several years. With that in mind, it is never advisable to chase RIDS as the likelihood of them returning in the near future is quite high. The amount of additional time and cost associated with chasing these remaining 5-10% of heavier defects rarely yields a dramatic increase in finish quality that is seen with the removing all of the zillions (<- I counted) of swirls and other scratches that are removed with the initial paint correction process. So, when you explain this to your customers, it is important to explain the desire to have flawless paint on a DD vs. the importance of maintaining clear coat thickness for future polishing and protection. In most instances, your customer should agree that preserving as much of their clear coat as possible is the right choice... now if it is a show car that will never see rain, bird poop, etc. then it certainly does not need as much clear for protection and seeking a flawless finish is much more realistic for this application.

It is all about educating your customer on how the paint system is designed to work, and allowing them to discover their true needs/desires for their vehicle. If they insist on pushing for perfection, it is always very important that they understand the present and future risks of doing so... especially if they have thin paint to start with .

[JSFM35X]

If the car wont dry quickly with a master blaster I need to recoat it or re apply protection. Reload, permanon or QD are not long enough lasting.

I use peremanon when I need to extend an LSP until I can get to it.

I did not do the wheels on this particular vehicle.

I use the CarPro applicator block and suede cloth for all coatings. This system uses WAY less product compared to traditional yellow foam applicators as the CarPro block does not soak up/waste product. I would use around 4-5cc of 2.0 on a vehicle this size as well.

Keep in mind... Just because the beading is gone doesn`t mean the coating is gone. It could still be on the surface and provide a barrier between the environment and the paint (no way to really know), but you could simply use a product like CarPro Reload to provide additional protection and restore hydrophobic properties.

[zmcgovern45]

If the car wont dry quickly with a master blaster I need to recoat it or re apply protection. Reload, permanon or QD are not long enough lasting.



I use peremanon when I need to extend an LSP until I can get to it.

Reload lasts many months in my experiences... Well worth it for the 10 minutes it takes to apply. Heck, you could just apply it quickly every 2 months and be done with it. Just my $0.02

[Don]

Thanks... He hasn`t seen it yet... He will be picking it up this evening

Make sure you let us know