Ford GT getting hooked up by Tru Shine & Unique Mobile Detailing

**rd_volvo** · 04-01-2002, 04:16 PM

Hi Scottwax,

I just ordered a small bottle of Quick & Easy Wash from

Protectall. Pat and Ken over there say you are the Q+E

guru. They seem like nice fellows. Do you mind sharing

some of your tricks with us droughtees. You mention some

steps in your prior post about Q + E.

I called the NY DEP today and they said the only option you

have is to go get some bottled spring water and have a

receipt on you. They said if you get caught with tap water in

a bucket you can be fined. Even rain water cause you can`t

prove it`s origin. So I went and got some of those 2.5 Gal

jugs at the supermarket for around 2 bucks a piece.

Not a bad deal when you compare to an automatic car wash

which my car will never see cause they scratched my last car.

Some things Protectall was nice enough to enlighten me with.

1- Don`t use more product then specified. It`s not going to help.

2- Use 2 gallons to start but once you get good at it you will

lower to about 1 gallon. They also said if you wash frequently

there is no need for the 2 bucket system.

3- Don`t use the product if your car is extremely dirty.

4- Dip Mitt or media, wipe-on, and dry-off One Section at a Time.

Maybe you can add some Q & E tricks.

A few questions :

What kind of wash media do you recommend? Mitt or Towel.

Can Q & E be used in sunlight or should you do it in shade at

late day or early morning?

What do you dry with? Is a Fieldcrest OK?

Your tips will help many of us drought stricken Autopians.

Thanks,

RD

**imported_Intermezzo** · 04-01-2002, 05:08 PM

I`m not Scottwax but some of the things that worked for me when using Q&E are:

-I use an MF mitt. I`m sure any mitt would work fine. Don`t use it `dripping` wet, or you`ll run out of the solution before you are finished. Lightly wring it so it stops dripping, but is still very saturated.

-It works fine under the sun, you just need to do smaller sections at a time.

-gently wipe down a section with the mitt and then use one cotton towel to remove most of the water and dirt. Then use a second cotton towel (or MF towel) to buff the area to a shine. Do the windows and dirtiest areas last.

-Finally, with a separate designated mitt & rag, do the rims, wheels, wheel wells, etc.

**Tru_Shine** · 07-12-2011, 02:30 PM

For this trip up to Bristol, We were scheduled to work on this 2006 Ford GT and his Audi S8 V10 (write up for the S8 will come shortly). Starting off the owner did not want a full correction as it appeared to be in pretty good shape, but as we got further on in the process, we discovered quite a few factory defects.....Lets take a look.

*These Photo`s were slightly adjusted to enhance viewing pleasure only*

Here is the car when we arrived.

A few Iron deposits on the rear bumper area

We started off with the wheels using one of my Favorite Wheel cleaners, Sonax Full Effect, a pH balanced, safe on all types of brakes and wheels, wheel cleaner.

While we left the Sonax to dwell a bit. I sprayed some Meguiars Body Solvent on the lower panels to break down all of the tar and grime and bugs.

Back to the wheels, here is the Sonax turning Red letting me know that its helping desolve all of the Iron particles on the wheels

I thought I would try out a new brush for this detail, and to some of you, it might look a little familiar, but it did an amazing job getting all the tight places and deep into the wheel.

Also with the aid of the Swissvax brush we are able to get in all other areas that the big brushes cant.

Next I degreased and scrubbed all of the fender wells using Megs Super Degreaser

Next we Pre-Rinsed the car to knock off any loose or heavy Debris

Then we apply some P21s Total Auto Wash to the whole car

Then comes the Foam Bath, This helps give the dirt on the paint a suspension and helps by reducing surface marring.

Going in straight lines to help prevent circular marring using a 100% Sheep skin wash mitt

To help with the embedded iron particles on the back, I used some Iron X. This will dissolve any iron that is stuck into the paint. Iron X will also turn red showing you that the iron is "Bleeding out"

**Tru_Shine** · 07-12-2011, 02:31 PM

Next we used some Dodo Juice "Born Slippy" as our Clay lube. (I love this stuff more and more everytime I use it. then only thing is that you have to rinse after your done)

Then we brought the car in to dry it off

Next it was time to tape off any plastic or rubber trim using Meguiars tape and some thin 3m tape on the tight edges.

OK.........Now it is time for the Correction process. This car came like this from the Factoy..... I hope you are setting down for this one! here is what the Brinkman swirl finder light found.

This is the reflection shot, look at the window and see how cloudy this reflection is. Most people say that you can see a difference in white. but these pictures speak for themselves.

50/50 After

Here it is under the Brinkman Swirl Finder

and here it is after

Along with the Front Bumper, the mirrors and Rear hatch area were also severely scratched up from the factory sand scratches.

The Blue Stripes also had some buffer trails

Here is the side mirror before

using a 4in Surbuff on the Megs G110 and M105 compound

**Tru_Shine** · 07-12-2011, 02:32 PM

And here are some of the rear section of the car

For most of the car we used the Megs Microfiber cutting system and for the areas with bad sanding marks we used the Surbuff pad and M105. and polished using the LC Tang/205

After that David did a Quick Vac and Wipe down on the inside while I shined the Tires using OPT Opti-Bond Tire Gel (My favorite Tire shine to date)

We used Meguiars Window Cleaner concentrate (Not sure what ratio, Maybe 2oz window cleaner and 30oz water) The best window cleaner I have ever used and is a MUST in the TruShine Arsenal!!

Then we applied Black Fire Wet Diamond to the paint using a blue LC pad

Here are the Final shots

David giving it a final walk around

Thanks for Viewing, Have a blessed day!

-Eric Witt & David Purser

**bmw5541** · 07-12-2011, 02:54 PM

You guys are becoming quite a duo! Just like Marc and Jacob at Auto Lavish.
Great job once again. I also love the Meg`s D120 Glass cleaner (my favorite).

**mikenap** · 07-12-2011, 02:59 PM

Great job guys. From Knoxville to Charlotte to Bristol and more. Probably the most "mobile" detailing I`ve ever seen.:clap:

**gmblack3** · 07-12-2011, 07:58 PM

Great job again Eric!

Funny as I too just picked up a gallon of D120 Glass cleaner.

**Tru_Shine** · 07-12-2011, 08:50 PM

Originally Posted by gmblack3

Great job again Eric!

Funny as I too just picked up a gallon of D120 Glass cleaner.

It`s going to take me FOREVER to use up a whole gallon!

**Nth Degree** · 07-12-2011, 09:51 PM

:drool5:Nice work. I love those cars. Had about a half dozen show up at Cars & Coffee in Raleigh a few months back.

I was a little surprised at your new, state-of-the-art wheel brush.

ut: I would be a little worried about scratching. Is that clear coat approved?

**Tru_Shine** · 07-12-2011, 10:03 PM

Originally Posted by dwgcmc

:drool5:Nice work. I love those cars. Had about a half dozen show up at Cars & Coffee in Raleigh a few months back.

I was a little surprised at your new, state-of-the-art wheel brush.

ut: I would be a little worried about scratching. Is that clear coat approved?

It`s a LOT softer then a EZ Detail brush.....trust me. I would not use it if it had potential to damage the customers car...