No drain in the floor :(

**LeMarque** · 12-14-2011, 11:05 PM

In my town there are no shops available with drains in the floor. OK, one. A four bay ex-gas station on the main drag where I`m guessing the rent would be 5K per mo.

I`ve considered the various water berms that are available and have decided against something like that because I`d be sloshing around in the water all day.

So now I`m thinking two designs.

The first, and most expensive, would be to have welded up two, low (4" high or so) drive on racks approx. 36" wide each, by maybe 20` long. Maybe each rack would be in three 7` long sections, bolted together so they would be easier to move.

Then I thought, since there`s a local lumber mill, about asking them if they could saw down (and plane 2 sides would be great) - Rail Road ties. Those are cheap. Put a few of those side by side and twenty or so feet long, maybe top them with some sort of steel grate and fabricate a long low ramp ...

I`d build a water containment out of pond liner material (also cheap), enclose it using 2 x 4`s to catch most of the water and put in between or even under the ramps.

It`s been the major stumbling block in my finding a location and coming up with a solution.

Any feedback or other ideas greatly appreciated.

BTW - I`m scheduled for a week of training in Jan.

**Sleper** · 12-15-2011, 07:16 AM

What about using a shop vac to pick up the water or one with a pump and dispose of it somewhere else?

**LeMarque** · 12-15-2011, 09:09 AM

Originally Posted by Sleper

What about using a shop vac to pick up the water or one with a pump and dispose of it somewhere else?

Probably end up using both. A sump pump for the bulk of the water and a shop vac to get whats left over.

Does add extra time.

But what I`m hoping for is some replies from anyone who has faced this issue.

**rzatch** · 12-15-2011, 11:08 AM

Not knowing what the weather conditions are like where you located. Have you concidered simply using a squeegee and pushing it out the door? That`s how I do it at home I don`t have a drain either.

**Mr. Gloss** · 12-15-2011, 01:08 PM

The first thing you should do is ask the building department if car wash and rinse is permitted to enter the storm drains or sanitary drains. Most do not permit it.

Before you push water out to the street, be safe and ask about the guidelines.

**LeMarque** · 12-15-2011, 01:14 PM

Got all the zoning worked out. - hoping for some `brilliant` ideas oh how to not be working in wash water and get the cars up.

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**Pockets** · 12-15-2011, 03:52 PM

RaceDeck Free-Flow Floor Tile, shock-absorbing floor

How about that ...... does the floor have any natural flow to the door??

**Old Pirate** · 12-15-2011, 05:22 PM

How bout something like this...

That way you be ahead in any new guides lines in the future and have a selling point in telling your customers about you saving the environment.

**rzatch** · 12-15-2011, 05:43 PM

Originally Posted by Pockets

RaceDeck Free-Flow Floor Tile, shock-absorbing floor

How about that ...... does the floor have any natural flow to the door??

Cool stuff, but man it`s expensive. On the bright side though, when it`s time to move you can take it with you.

**Concours.John** · 12-15-2011, 06:59 PM

Have you thought of creating a 10x20 area with a 2" rise from front to rear to place the mat on. A mold can be made out of angle iron bolted to the floor. It would have to be poured in sections to keep the slope but would direct flow to the pump with minimal concrete. Just grind the edges to match the slope once done or to create your slope before.

A 50gal container could be storage for waste. This would not be fatiguing to work on and not cumbersome to work around. If you score the floor and add wire mesh it would be removable and durable. Just fill the scores if you leave. It could also be driven over.

Just a thought I`ve been working on for other sites I have looked at w/o drains.

I rented my space because the drain was already set up with a recovery bypass. It just doesn`t slope fully to the drain.

**Concours.John** · 12-15-2011, 07:57 PM

Originally Posted by zoomzoom mazda5

How bout something like this...

http://[IMG]http://i159.photobucket.....jpg[/IMG]

That way you be ahead in any new guides lines in the future and have a selling point in telling your customers about you saving the environment.

Just apply Zoomzooms suggestions to this. Thanks Angelo.

**LeMarque** · 12-15-2011, 09:29 PM

Originally Posted by Pockets

RaceDeck Free-Flow Floor Tile, shock-absorbing floor

How about that ...... does the floor have any natural flow to the door??

Thanks. I like it! Definitely will find a use for it.

Gonna reply at the end of all the replies with what I`m almost certain I`m going to do.

**LeMarque** · 12-15-2011, 09:31 PM

Originally Posted by zoomzoom mazda5

How bout something like this...

That way you be ahead in any new guides lines in the future and have a selling point in telling your customers about you saving the environment.

I`ve done a lot of searching regarding these and have concluded I can build my own for a lot less $$$; but thanks for the reply.

**LeMarque** · 12-15-2011, 09:37 PM

Originally Posted by Concours.John

Have you thought of creating a 10x20 area with a 2" rise from front to rear to place the mat on. A mold can be made out of angle iron bolted to the floor. It would have to be poured in sections to keep the slope but would direct flow to the pump with minimal concrete. Just grind the edges to match the slope once done or to create your slope before.

A 50gal container could be storage for waste. This would not be fatiguing to work on and not cumbersome to work around. If you score the floor and add wire mesh it would be removable and durable. Just fill the scores if you leave. It could also be driven over.

Just a thought I`ve been working on for other sites I have looked at w/o drains.

I rented my space because the drain was already set up with a recovery bypass. It just doesn`t slope fully to the drain.

Now we`re getting somewhere! Great idea. If I go that way, I`d probably build two so that it replaces the ramps and place my homemade water catchment between them. Gotta price it out and compare.

**LeMarque** · 12-15-2011, 10:05 PM

Thanks for all for the replies.

I got a quote for milled treated 6"x8"x12 foot from the lumber mill of $116.00

My thought is to make two rows of two each, side by side ending up with 16" wide by 24 feet long and top it with steel grating (like what is used for trailer ramps - if its not to expensive) or something like the RaceDeck and place the water catchment between.

Pushing over $1K. Not including a platform around it so I can work and reach the roof, etc.

But ... Concours.Johns`sidea to use concrete - probably use re-bar to strengthen it - may very well end up being less expensive. Will check and post back.

Blah ... for the want of a drain

Thanks again for all the ideas.