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  1. #16
    Dr Oldz's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary lessons needed

    Quote Originally Posted by sjb89 View Post
    If you are learning a rotary, you will want to use a side handle. I have using one since 1980, and i would not use one without the grip and control of the side handle.They are not a toy!

    I have to disagree with this. Maybe machines from 40 years ago I would agree. The new light weight slow RPM rotaries can be handled without any handle or a D handle just fine. It is whatever the user is comfortable with.

    That being said I prefer a stick handle myself.

  2. #17
    dansautodetailing.com Stokdgs's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary lessons needed

    Amigo !
    Hope you guys are all good and warm !
    It is cold, rainy, here, and dumping several feet of snow at a time up by Lake Tahoe..

    I like to use the Side Handle on all machines because I learned that way as a kid, and when I grew up, I liked the Leverage advantage the side handle gave me.. I can balance the machine`s torque much more precisely with the side handle.. Another way to look at this -- how much strength and leverage can you utilize with both your hands and arms, one above the other, vs one hand and arm at 6 o clock, and one hand and arm at 9 o clock (or 3 o clock if left handed)?

    The next part is going to be my particular process that really works for my needs, added to the zillion other techniques that are all good as well..

    Absolutely have to have very good lighting, to help you see what is going on while it is happening, and adjusting whatever needs to be adjusted while you work that area..

    I have always done all correction work at lower speeds, ( I hardly ever go very far past 1,000+ and only when it`s time to do a light final polish, if it`s needed) because I want the compound or polish to work itself to be almost completely gone, and then, the pad to clean it all off for me, so I have very little to wipe off and possibly scratch my work..

    In my decades of doing this with a Rotary, I just don`t get holograms, micro marring, or any of that stuff, and I think the reason that some people do, by my observations, is that they do not work the product long enough, they might be using the wrong product, pressure, pad, technique, etc., for that particular paint, do not keep it moist enough, and also, do not keep the pad flat, absolutely flat, as much as possible while doing that area on the panel.
    Too fast a speed, especially with too much pressure, can also get everything too hot and cause defects to show up in the work...

    I want to "work" all these things together in a way that keeps them all "friendly" with each other, so they all give me their best result..

    Like any other machine, you need to understand about putting downward pressure on the pad and there is no set process for this either.. You just have to use the - innovation - gene and experiment with it..
    You may not always need a lot of downward pressure, sometimes the weight of the machine will be enough.

    But, with the lighter and lighter machines they make, I don`t see their weight ever being enough for badly scratched paintwork.. (So, perhaps you will need to apply pressure)

    Guess that is why I still love and prefer my 10lb (with no backing plate, pad) Makita beast.. It can run anything down and not even break a sweat..

    And as a bonus, the 3,000rpm top speed is awesome to help dry out your washed pads really fast.. I just have to be careful to make sure I`m not near anything that could get that stream of water off of them..

    Another great Rotary bonus - no vibration...

    Good luck with this !
    Dan F
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  3. #18

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    Re: Rotary lessons needed

    Stokdgs- Heh heh, our 10lbs. Makitas aren`t "beasts" compared to a `70s-vintage Milwakee My Metabo is supposed to be smaller/lighter than my Makita, and I guess it is, but I never really appreciated the diff. I gather today`s rotaries are even smaller/lighter yet.

    And even I will admit that rotaries are indeed smooth and comfortable to operate compared to something like the Flex 3401 or a vibrato-machine like the PC.
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  4. #19
    dansautodetailing.com Stokdgs's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary lessons needed

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    Stokdgs- Heh heh, our 10lbs. Makitas aren`t "beasts" compared to a `70s-vintage Milwakee My Metabo is supposed to be smaller/lighter than my Makita, and I guess it is, but I never really appreciated the diff. I gather today`s rotaries are even smaller/lighter yet.

    And even I will admit that rotaries are indeed smooth and comfortable to operate compared to something like the Flex 3401 or a vibrato-machine like the PC.
    Mi Amigo, El Accumulator` !
    Hope you guys are all safe and warm up there this winter..

    Yes, the old Milwaukee machines, is what I had in my hands at 10 years old.. The dang thing almost weighed more than me !!
    Lots of metal to love.. Really powerful motors..

    Totally agree - no other machines are as smooth and vibration-free as Rotary Power..

    Loved your comment - " a vibrato-machine like the PC" Never thought about that musical effect, which is indeed very nice, being applied to a PC ! You`re killing me!!
    Dan F

  5. #20
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    Re: Rotary lessons needed

    A question about wool pads. On the first use do they all throw off a ton of fur? I used a 3 inch on my mini and it covered my car in fur/fluff. What can I do to avoid this mess?

  6. #21
    Dr Oldz's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary lessons needed

    Quote Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000 View Post
    A question about wool pads. On the first use do they all throw off a ton of fur? I used a 3 inch on my mini and it covered my car in fur/fluff. What can I do to avoid this mess?

    Some do. I always spur them good then wash and spin dry, then respur. It helps for new pads but basically it unavoidable.

  7. #22
    Detailers Workshop The Driver's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary lessons needed

    Quote Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000 View Post
    A question about wool pads. On the first use do they all throw off a ton of fur? I used a 3 inch on my mini and it covered my car in fur/fluff. What can I do to avoid this mess?
    Spur them a few times and keep them DAMP/NOT WET enough to sling. A damp pad always works wonders IMO, keeps the panels cooler, longer working time an less dust and sling if done right.
    Rupes 21 MK II, Rupes 15 MK II, Rupes 21, Rupes LHR75e, Rupes Duetto, Rupes Ibrid-L, Rupes LH18ENS, Flex PE-14-2, Dodo Juice V1

    Quote Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000 View Post
    At $21.99 it will remain a secret to me.
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  8. #23

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    Re: Rotary lessons needed

    Quote Originally Posted by Stokdgs View Post
    Mi Amigo, El Accumulator` !...You`re killing me!!
    Dan F
    Heh heh, well...since I`m soo negatively disposed towards rotaries the least I can do is keep you Rotary-Meisters amused

    At 10yo that Milwaukee would indeed have been a "big, serious tool"!
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  9. #24

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    Re: Rotary lessons needed

    @rimccarty2000

    Here a article by Todd on jeweling. I`m not sure if it will help.

    https://www.autopia.org/forums/the-d...ate-shine.html
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  10. #25
    AMG Classic Car Detailing Old Pirate's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary lessons needed

    Quote Originally Posted by Stokdgs View Post
    Amigo !
    Hope you guys are all good and warm !
    It is cold, rainy, here, and dumping several feet of snow at a time up by Lake Tahoe..

    I like to use the Side Handle on all machines because I learned that way as a kid, and when I grew up, I liked the Leverage advantage the side handle gave me.. I can balance the machine`s torque much more precisely with the side handle.. Another way to look at this -- how much strength can you utilize with both your hands and arms, one above the other, vs one hand and arm at 6 o clock, and one hand and arm at 9 o clock?

    The next part is going to be my particular process that really works for my needs, added to the zillion other techniques that are all good as well..

    Absolutely have to have very good lighting, to help you see what is going on while it is happening, and adjusting whatever needs to be adjusted while you work that area..

    I have always done all correction work at lower speeds, ( I hardly ever go very far past 1,000+ and only when it`s time to do a light final polish, if it`s needed) because I want the compound or polish to work itself to be almost completely gone, and then, the pad to clean it all off for me, so I have very little to wipe off and possibly scratch my work..

    In my decades of doing this with a Rotary, I just don`t get holograms, micro marring, or any of that stuff, and I think the reason that some people do, by my observations, is that they do not work the product long enough, they might be using the wrong product, pressure, pad, technique, etc., for that particular paint, do not keep it moist enough, and also, do not keep the pad flat, absolutely flat, as much as possible while doing that area on the panel.
    Too fast a speed, especially with too much pressure, can also get everything too hot and cause defects to show up in the work...

    I want to "work" all these things together in a way that keeps them all "friendly" with each other, so they all give me their best result..

    Like any other machine, you need to understand about putting downward pressure on the pad and there is no set process for this either.. You just have to use the - innovation - gene and experiment with it..
    You may not always need a lot of downward pressure, sometimes the weight of the machine will be enough.

    But, with the lighter and lighter machines they make, I don`t see their weight ever being enough for badly scratched paintwork.. (So, perhaps you will need to apply pressure)

    Guess that is why I still love and prefer my 10lb (with no backing plate, pad) Makita beast.. It can run anything down and not even break a sweat..

    And as a bonus, the 3,000rpm top speed is awesome to help dry out your washed pads really fast.. I just have to be careful to make sure I`m not near anything that could get that stream of water off of them..

    Another great Rotary bonus - no vibration...

    Good luck with this !
    Dan F
    Great write up Dan!
    AutopiaForums is the place to be.
    Remember to Shop Autopia-CarCare.com for your Detailing Needs!
    Thanks Stokdgs thanked for this post

  11. #26
    AMG Classic Car Detailing Old Pirate's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary lessons needed

    You Tube Videos on " How to use a Rotary "
    AutopiaForums is the place to be.
    Remember to Shop Autopia-CarCare.com for your Detailing Needs!
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  12. #27
    dansautodetailing.com Stokdgs's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary lessons needed

    Quote Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000 View Post
    A question about wool pads. On the first use do they all throw off a ton of fur? I used a 3 inch on my mini and it covered my car in fur/fluff. What can I do to avoid this mess?
    Amigo !!
    The newer/newest "wool" pads usually have a combination of wool and foam like these --- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/foam...ads-thick.html
    These purple foam wool pads like all pads will throw off some wool when new, but if you keep them moist, there is less opportunity for that to happen..
    I have used these purple foam/wool pads for years - only when absolutely needed - and they have worked really well, correcting fast and finishing down very nice because of the foam infusion in them..
    I don`t know if other makers of wool use Lake Country`s design here..

    I was able to use these Lake Country Purple Foam Wool pads on a very dirty, beautifully painted Airplane with Meguiars 105, and then come back with Lake Country White, Flat, Foam pads and Meguiars 205 on my Makita and it turned out beautifully clear, deep, and glossy.. The advantage of the purple foam/wool pad design really helped this turn out to be 2 steps vs many steps...
    And of course, my experience with Rotary Power and ability to cover ALL that paintwork...

    I have also used the "traditional" wool pads for decades (before Lake Country came out with their lovely Purple Foam Wool versions) and the straight wool pads always threw out lots of fun when new and if you let them get dry, at speed.. Traditional Wools always required another step or two, of something else to take out the finish they left.. Newer versions, if they have actually "improved" their result may act differently today..

    Have read somewhere on this Forum about some really nice Black Wool Pads that are supposed to be really good too.. Can`t remember who makes them though at this moment..

    Just keep in mind that any of these versions will cut very fast, so you need to also be very fast about handling the machine, so you don`t go too far.. The absolute need for the Best Lighting again...

    I as a rule, never use any versions of wool unless it absolutely the only way to get defects out.. They will absolutely help clean up headlights very nicely, and of course, Airplanes, large, hopelessly scratched, Vans, etc., things that can take it and not break it..
    Dan F
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