Words of wisdom for a 1975 Ferrari Dino Detail (pics inside)

**stilez** · 06-07-2005, 05:34 PM

If I take this job, it will be my first pasta rocket :bounce . However, I`m not sure if its going to finish up to my standards. I`m fearing that I may have to use a light polish, glaze, then wax since the paint job is so old and beat up (original). In the pics you can see the heavy swirling, ferrous oxide present, as well as some clear coat checking on the trunk lid.

If anyone has any words of wisdom on what I should do with this job in general it would be greatly appreciated. Think I should have a waiver as well? Thanks in advance.

**Thomas Dekany** · 06-07-2005, 06:00 PM

No wisdom from me (obviously

) but I am confident that you`ll do one heck of a job.

The waiver is a good idea.

**imported_themightytimmah** · 06-07-2005, 09:01 PM

What kind of sicko lets THAT happen to a Ferrari?. I don`t know why, but the paint just looks kind of thin to me. If I were doing it, I`d stay off the powergloss and just use OCP. I`d finish up with a good glaze (VM, FTG) and then a wax that`ll hide defects and deepen/darken (blue Natty`s comes to mind).

**usdm** · 06-07-2005, 11:29 PM

Where`s the car going to be?

**holland_patrick** · 06-08-2005, 04:31 AM

nxt and a good wax hiding a lot.

**stilez** · 06-08-2005, 04:36 AM

The car is usually covered but he had it uncovered in hopes I`d get to it yesterday. He said it was repainted many years ago but it doesnt matter, the paint still needs a lot of work.

He also mentioned he just wants it clean and shiny so I will probably do something like FPII, VM, Natty`s Blue or FK1 Pink Wax...

**ScubaStevo** · 06-08-2005, 06:18 AM

I`d do the waiver thing. I`ve be scared to work on that car, since the paint looks extremly thin.

**mgm2003** · 06-08-2005, 07:02 AM

Have you considered starting out with something like AIO to clean it up and get a feel for the paint, and then using a mild polish -like #80?

I remember seeing a post on the Meg`s site about using #80 on an older Magnum PI car, and they really improved it. You might want to ask Mike about it.

**Bill D** · 06-08-2005, 08:40 AM

That sight makes me cringe! I think this is a detail that ought to be done mostly by hand and perhaps with very light PC work.

I hope the owner realizes that complete miracles aren`t realistic.

**Accumulator** · 06-08-2005, 09:21 AM

I wouldn`t use VM on that one, IMO it`ll make the defects show too much. I`d go with an oil/glaze-centric approach.

I second the #80. I`d probably use #80, then either #5 or #3, then a "heavy" wax or maybe NXT if you can apply the NXT so gently that it won`t strip the glazes/oils.

And yeah, if you have time I`d use a chemical paint cleaner first to show just what you`re really dealing with. I`d use something other than AIO though so you don`t have to work to cut through the protection it leaves behind. I`d probably use Pinnacle PCL myself.

**stilez** · 06-08-2005, 09:22 AM

Looks like I`ll be borrowing a PC for this one (hey patrick!)

The owner just wants it cleaned up and shiny. He knows its limitations and knows it needs a do-over. He is selling it soon but wants to enjoy it this summer.

mgm: I never had good luck with #80, but I think I will go with cleaners and light polishes with a slight glaze to them to rehydrate the paint as well as fill some things in.

**Bill D** · 06-08-2005, 10:14 AM

Go you have GEPC? May be that would a good part of the approach.

**Spilchy** · 06-08-2005, 01:50 PM

I agree with Accumulator on this. Stick with heavy glazes after a delicate polish.

First I would clay then use Meguair`s Medallion Paint Cleaner with a PC and polish pad (if you want a sample, PM me). Then I`d use #80 with a PC. You can adjust the cut with the pad you use - very versatile.

I`d also use #5, #3, #81 or One Grand Omega Glaze (again, if you want samples, PM me).

I`d use #16, Blitz or the FK pink wax you like.

Do you have the 3 step decontamination products? Maybe that would work well and get rid of the ferrous oxide.

If you want those samples, they`d get to your place in a couple days from Jerzey.

**percynjpn** · 06-09-2005, 09:39 AM

Originally posted by Bill D

Go you have GEPC? May be that would a good part of the approach.

I think that sounds like a good idea, and I would definitely work by hand, NOT by machine - at least initially (as you said earlier).

**Vadar** · 06-09-2005, 04:06 PM

Nice car! Do you happen to know what the offical color name is (i.e., Rosso Rubino, Rosso Bordeaux, etc.)?

These cars were painted with single stage paint, so there should be no clearcoat, unless it was repainted.

You should have no trouble using a PC. I`ve used it on mine several times with no issues, and my paint is over 25 years old.

The Dino 308 GT4`s are great cars. Unfortunately (or fortunately, if you are in the market for one) they are not worth much - $25k should get you a really nice one. They handle better than their other 308 brethren and are also slightly lighter.

Dom