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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    so, I had a car yesterday and I only had real time for 5 hours on it...needed interior work, exterior work. I ended up with 7 hours on it total, and skipped out on the rest of my day I had planned. Oh well, the client was extremely happy with the results.

    car: 2001 toyota celica

    damage: dents and dings, extreme road rash on the front (needed repaint)

    mileage: 152K

    interior was pretty hammered, this is her commuter car!

    exterior: lots of scratches and deep scratches, plenty of swirl marks and TONS of OVERSPRAY

    I spent 20 min claying the car from the front end back. then I attacked the overspray with megs red clay, clay magic red, ADS purple, 3000K megs unigrit paper, and rotary/cutting wool/105 = NOTHING WORKED efficiently in the 2 hours I spent on the front portion of the hood, the front of the fenders, and the WHOLE front bumper! I only got it about 40-50% out, but called it good enough based on time and needs/condition of the car.

    I called up Patrick and asked his thoughts...he recommended I try a couple of things, but only had time to work with what I had on hand...prep sol wipe down and soak prior to the claying. Thanks for the tip! It worked a little faster, but the larger stuff was remaining STUCK on...nothing would budge it!

    WHAT DO YOU USE IN THAT SITUATION? I want the proper product on hand for the next time there is extreme amounts of road paint all over the car!

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Sometimes painting material such as urethane, paint, solvent, lacquer, glue, etc etch into the paint down to the metal. In some cases, I`ve seen road paint creating an indentation on the metal surface. When that is the case, it will need to be sanded. Even after sanding down to the bare metal, a small needle sized dent still remains on the metal.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    A heated pressure washer ( I know I know not very mobile at all) would`ve washed it all off like a regular garden hose on a dusty hood. There are defiantly more aggressive chemical attacks you could use but I wouldn`t recommend them without knowing exactly how they would react to the paint. Prep-sol is probably the least aggressive and safest way to go. Still probably going to take some time. mineral sprints would also be highly effective. you could also use a plastic razor blade on the paint and a regular razor blade on the glass with a little varnish on a MF towel on the rubber. All have very dire consequences if not done with an extreame amount of care..

  4. #4
    Barry Theal's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    I would have used micro-surface`s 4000 grit micro mesh! great **** there
    Barry E. Theal
    Presidential Details Of Lancaster PA
    Founder of Americana Global Inc.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Z-bar clay, if it is still available, mars paint like 3000 grit right out of the case. It works well, but expect to compound/polish after.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    If there`s loads of overspray, and i hv not been given sufficient time, and the owner has been informed of the risks, I always wipe with acetone first. Won`t damage the paint finish at all. but avoid the non-metal parts. Dampen the sections for 5mins with acetone, rinse and thenclay as usual, and it`ll be OK.



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