I haven`t been able to correct to the level I can now, but that doesn`t mean the cars I`ve done with the UDM/Cyclo taking out moderate defects looked bad. Just that last 5-10% improvement took a rotary to achieve.
90-120 minutes with #105, 90 with #205 and 45 with Ultrafina does a pretty good job removing swirls without leaving trails. Obviously if you are shooting for as close to perfection as possible you`d spend more time with #105 and maybe do some wetsanding too. However, I find that #205 does a really good job cutting out anything #105 leaves behind without leaving anything more than minimal trails. I am seeing cars I`ve done using #105/205 and UF several months ago and not one has buffer trails anywhere on the car. I didn`t even follow with the PC on my own car even though if I do leave anything behind it might be weeks before I can get to it.
I do believe polishing in the full sun helps, heats the metal under the paint so the paint itself is as fully expanded as it is going to get which seems to make removing defects easier. I definitely notice a difference in the winter or when working out of the sun. Plus, working in the sun makes it very easy to check for holograms and the sun does a good job baking out polishing oils. Try using #83 (if you have some) and check the work in the sun and then 5 minutes later. Can be pretty scary.
I believe I am properly following what I do know about the method-fully prime the pad, slow passes under heavy pressure, spritz with water as the polish begins to dry. So far, it seems more time consuming than using a rotary. Not only that, but I`ve already gone through 3 G110s without using the heavy pressure the KB method seems to require. Do you think this method may have an impact on how long DA polishers last?
Also, to be quite honest, I like using the rotary. So smooth compared to a DA buffer.
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