Finishing with a Rotary

**imported_d00t** · 08-25-2008, 08:25 AM

So this weekend I was working on an `08 Chicane Silver S2000 (C&B will be up when I get time!) and it only needed a one step polish, so I used my metabo, with a White CCS 5.5" pad, and PO106FA. The thing is, it left the slightest, but in my eyes, noticeable holograms on some parts of the hood/fenders. Why is it hologramming with such a light combo? I know that it requires a lot of skill and practice to finish down with a rotary without going to something like a PC to finish down to get ride of things like buffer trails.

The SAME thing happened to the black SI I detailed last week, I work with him, so I was walking by one afternoon and I noticed the SLIGHTEST but noticeable holograms that didn`t come out in the final pics. So I told him (at no charge since it`s my fault) i needed to re-do parts of his car, he said do what you gotta do!

But my main question is does anyone have any tips to finish with the rotary, or should I just finish with my PC until I get more time under my belt?

Thanks!

**imported_JoshVette** · 08-25-2008, 08:38 AM

Nice that you noticed and are going to correct it.:xyxthumbs

Remember Honda paint is typically very soft so a white pad is just too abrasive to finish down with on Honda paint even with a final polish. If it were a Corvette or Audi then it would probably have worked perfectly since the clear is so much harder.

Try using that same polish but with a black finishing pad instead. I think you`ll get the perfect results you`re looking for.

Josh

**imported_d00t** · 08-26-2008, 10:48 AM

Makes sense! Thanks Josh!

Would it almost be worth it to step down from 106FA+White to 85rd+black or is 106FA+black good enough? If I have to make that extra polishing step.. might as well make it look as good as possible!

.

So is it safe to say that when working on a honda, it`s hard to do a one-step? or If you`re only charged for a one-step, use a PC?

**Todd@RUPES** · 08-26-2008, 11:23 AM

Out of curiosity, when you finished polishing your co-workers car, did you inspect it in good light?

**imported_d00t** · 08-26-2008, 12:04 PM

I did actually. It was around 4pm and the sun was still pretty high. I have after shots of almost every panel, and nothing showed in the pictures, and when I inspected it.

**imported_JoshVette** · 08-26-2008, 12:17 PM

Originally Posted by d00t

I did actually. It was around 4pm and the sun was still pretty high. I have after shots of almost every panel, and nothing showed in the pictures, and when I inspected it.

That`s because there are lubricating oils in nearly every single compound and abrasive polish on the market and those lubes are actually designed to disipate the heat but also mask minor defects.

You have to either wait for them to evaporate or wipe them off with a solvent to remove the oils to see the true condition of the finish.

Josh

**imported_d00t** · 08-26-2008, 12:33 PM

Originally Posted by JoshVette

That`s because there are lubricating oils in nearly every single compound and abrasive polish on the market and those lubes are actually designed to disipate the heat but also mask minor defects.

You have to either wait for them to evaporate or wipe them off with a solvent to remove the oils to see the true condition of the finish.

Josh

Hence IPA wipdedowns! Correct? I was still iffy on using IPA or not, but I think I`m sold on using it from now on. Learn something new every day..

But to my other question about one steps with soft paint, any ideas/insight?

**rm1mty** · 08-26-2008, 03:10 PM

The lubricating oils can either mask or create the illusion of holograms, it can go both ways. Only way to find out is to do an IPA or Prep-sol wipedown.

**Bigpoppa3346** · 08-26-2008, 03:29 PM

There are a few very good posts here, by TH0001 I think, about how the polish lubricants fill in the pad abrasions (holograms) and will mask them temporarily. Since holograms, compared to swirls or marring are very shallow, they are more easily filled than swirls and marring. What you need to do to prevent this is use a very mild polish with a pad with very little to no mechanical abrasion as your final step, inspect with IPA or Prep Sol too.

Also, make sure not to go from compound -> finishing polish or polish, but to do compound -> polish -> finishing polish.

**imported_Totoland Mach** · 08-26-2008, 06:14 PM

Here`s a method I`m using for cars with very soft clear coats: Because most of the compounds in the shop are too abrasive (3M Extra Cut, M105, etc) for soft clear, I`ve found that using 3M SRC and wool will correct surface defects without adding additional swirls.

Now, what I do after that is: using a polish pad like the Meg`s 8006 in the picture or a finish pad, I spritz it with Detail Spray and work the area I`ve just finished. It clears out any residue and allows me to see my work. If I`ve wetsanded, I do an alcohol wipedown to make sure I didn`t leave any haze.

Compounding in progress

Toto

**MCWD** · 08-26-2008, 06:52 PM

Originally Posted by JoshVette

Nice that you noticed and are going to correct it.:xyxthumbs

Remember Honda paint is typically very soft so a white pad is just too abrasive to finish down with on Honda paint even with a final polish. If it were a Corvette or Audi then it would probably have worked perfectly since the clear is so much harder.

Try using that same polish but with a black finishing pad instead. I think you`ll get the perfect results you`re looking for.

Josh

Are you saying to use the black finishing pad on the rotary or the pc? Also what product would you use with the black pad?

**imported_JoshVette** · 08-26-2008, 08:30 PM

Originally Posted by MCWD

Are you saying to use the black finishing pad on the rotary or the pc? Also what product would you use with the black pad?

Yes, black pad on the rotary with a final polish will blow you away.

**ABQDetailer** · 08-26-2008, 09:42 PM

UFSE on a black finishing pad via rotary or DA will blow your mind! I`m sure 85RD gives similar results.

Even a noob like me can do it via rotary!!!!

**MCWD** · 08-26-2008, 10:14 PM

Originally Posted by JoshVette

Yes, black pad on the rotary with a final polish will blow you away.

what is your prefered method for preventing buffer trails? I always keep the rotary centered, I use smaller pads to prevent riding the edges, and I keep my speeds low, but sometimes I still see them and have to resort to the pc. Any suggestions? Maybe it is that my pad isn`t damp enough, but if I get any damper the product slings, and I try to use the suggested dime size of product then smear and kick up the rpm`s then tapper down the speed... thx

**Todd@RUPES** · 08-26-2008, 11:37 PM

Originally Posted by ABQDetailer

UFSE on a black finishing pad via rotary or DA will blow your mind! I`m sure 85RD gives similar results.

Even a noob like me can do it via rotary!!!!

UF-SE will fill like nobodies bussiness and it is VERY difficult to remove the oils (even after numerous wipe downs with some pretty harsh solvents). Best bet, pull it in the sun for a day with no LSP and re-inspect. You will be amazed at how much is still left (maybe).

I see people going from compound to UF, and I can only shake my head. In 3 months the car will look like it has only been compounded. Your best bet is to only use UF-SE for finishing and NEVER trust it for defect removal. Even then you might find some light pad abrasion marring 3 months down the road.