Finishing with a Rotary

[imported_sal329]

Thanks. I am trying to lern how to master the PC before getting into the rotary.

[MichaelM]

For those of you seeing micro-marring with a PC, have you tried a stronger DA machine like the Makita BO6040 or similar? Do you have any pics of the micro-marring? Also is the micro-marring being caused by finishing polishes?



I finish off nearly every car with the BO6040/white LC pad/Menz FPII combo and haven`t noticed any micromarring. Perhaps i`m just missing it....

[Bigpoppa3346]

For those of you seeing micro-marring with a PC, have you tried a stronger DA machine like the Makita BO6040 or similar? Do you have any pics of the micro-marring? Also is the micro-marring being caused by finishing polishes?



I finish off nearly every car with the BO6040/white LC pad/Menz FPII combo and haven`t noticed any micromarring. Perhaps i`m just missing it....

I can tell you that with both the PC and UDM, a white LC CCS pad and FPII/106ff will NOT finish out micromar free on soft black paint (PITA BMW black). It looks great at first and even after an IPA wipe, but after the first few washes micromarring will be readily apparant. It`s wierd, because the LSP on top will be in great shape, but the oils/lubes from the Menz polish underneath sorta evaporate from the paint and you are left with pad abrasions and micromarring.



Note that this is on finiky soft black, on some other blacks I have not seen marring return using a nearly identical process.



Regardless, I ordered a 9227c so I won`t have this issue. I figure if I can learn to finish out clean on the God-awful BMW black with a rotary, I can finish out on anything.

[imported_Picus]

I`ve seen micromarring with a flex from a white pad and FPII/106ff/8rd on (of course) a jet black 335i coupe.

[Bigpoppa3346]

In addition, with an orbital, a finishing pad really doesn`t have the ability to break down the abrasives properly (IME), so you are pretty much SOL if the white pad and finishing polish doesn`t finish down well.

[Accumulator]

Interesting that the 1Z HG performs more aggressively for others than it does for me :think: Maybe it`s because I`ve only used it on hard clear, or maybe I`m not being more aggressive with my technique.



ScottWax- Thanks for elaborating, about the Cyclo. Glad I don`t have to deal with the stupid-soft paints you pros have to tackle! The only time I had one of those was the weird-while-curing repaint on the Volvo, and yeah, *that* would mar with almost everything via PC/Cyclo...finally got it OK with Griot`s Machine Polish #3 of all things.



Wonder how the Cyclo would work (on stupid-soft clear) with blue pads and something like 1Z MPwW...My Sonus blue pads seem a bit more gentle than the Cyclo white ones.

[SpoiledMan]

I`ll take care of your Cyclo question now. I tried using white, blue and green pads with FPII, 85RD, 106ff, #80 and a couple other polishes that I can`t remember on Stupid Soft (TM) paint and it didn`t work. I cleaned a LOT of pads that day.

[MCWD]

Since I *have* to tape off the car when using a rotary, it absolutely takes me longer. Not to mention two polishing steps vs one. Even though the rotary corrects faster, twice around the car is going to take longer.



When doing 1 polishing step with the PC, I do make the customer aware that the deeper defects will remain that a two step process with the rotary will probably remove. Kind of hard to convince a soccer mom whose kids are going to trash out the Suburban within a few weeks to really care all that much beyond just having shiny paint.

What are you typically using for the one step, so far as product and pads? Do you find there to be certain makes or colors that this is not good for? I`d rather take my time and do it right, but for the people who want it cheaper, I would like to hear your process so that I can offer something similar. Thank you sir!:tribe:

[Accumulator]

I`ll take care of your Cyclo question now....on Stupid Soft (TM) paint and it didn`t work..

OK, thanks for the definitive response.



Hats off to you pros, being able to handle this is the sort of thing is, IMO, what separates the highly skilled amateurs from the true professionals.

[imported_Dave1]

After reading this entire thread, the pearl I`m going to try out in my own garage was from post # 10 by Toto......



Here`s a method I`m using for cars with very soft clear coats: Because most of the compounds in the shop are too abrasive (3M Extra Cut, M105, etc) for soft clear, I`ve found that using 3M SRC and wool will correct surface defects without adding additional swirls.



Now, what I do after that is: using a polish pad like the Meg`s 8006 in the picture or a finish pad, I spritz it with Detail Spray and work the area I`ve just finished. It clears out any residue and allows me to see my work.



....I like that tip.....:up



I think it will save a lot of time wiping down every small window with a MF and starting all over again.....



Thanks Toto.......

[gmblack3]

Sometimes you just need to use a softer pad with the compounds.

[imported_Dave1]

Sometimes you just need to use a softer pad with the compounds.

I agree with that.....



I like using M105 with a moist white LC pad at about 1200-1500.....

[Scottwax]

What about the dynabrade attachment for the rotary? Would it work using #105 or another heavy compound switching over to the orbital motion for the last couple of passes to eliminate the rotary swirls? Wouldn`t that make finishing out with a product like Ultrafina more effective?

[Scottwax]

Sometimes you just need to use a softer pad with the compounds.

Absolutely. I always increase the aggressiveness of the polish before the pad.

[Lumadar]

What about the dynabrade attachment for the rotary? Would it work using #105 or another heavy compound switching over to the orbital motion for the last couple of passes to eliminate the rotary swirls? Wouldn`t that make finishing out with a product like Ultrafina more effective?

Good idea...that`s why I plan to use the FLEX for final light polishing after the Makita.