Finishing with a Rotary

**Thomas Dekany** · 08-28-2008, 11:46 PM

Originally Posted by Scottwax

Amen to that! It helps that #105 will remove a lot of defects even with a yellow Meguiars polishing pad, definitely makes it easier to polish out any holograms left behind. Wool pretty much guarantees 2 or 3 additional finishing steps for me.

Must be my style but I have it the opposite way. Of course I am talking about the PFW pad. It always leaves very little behind that needs correcting. However, regular wool needs 2 extra steps for me.

**Scottwax** · 08-28-2008, 11:50 PM

Originally Posted by bert31

the car is white so any hologramming that does exist, it is probably near impossible to see. Does this theory seem reasonable to you?

Trust me, you can absolutely see holograms on white. :nervous2:

After #105

After #105, OC

At that point, I felt it was quite safe to finish with Ultrafina. The sun angle had changed way too much at that point to get any good shots. I could definitely see the difference in between steps while working it though.

**Driven Auto Detail** · 08-28-2008, 11:50 PM

Originally Posted by tdekany

I have a flex and I`d suggest to save your money.

+2

I went from PC to Cycle to UDM and tried to go to a rotary but just wasn`t comfortable with it. I bought a Flex, used it a few times and then decided to just learn the rotary. Now, I really don`t use my Flex. I sold my Cyclo and my UDM broke. Now, if I`m one-stepping (say Poli-Seal), I grab the PC. If I`m doing correction, I grab the rotary and finish with the PC. I`ll probably end up selling the Flex that now I don`t use it.

**Todd@RUPES** · 08-28-2008, 11:51 PM

And further Thomas I have been nothing but humble on this thread. I have admitted what I have done wrong and what I have done to correct it. A lot of professional detailers who do not have my recongnition (which I may or may not deserve) never admit to making mistakes and act like they are the best and experts. They never admit to learning or becoming better. They never ask questions.

This thread is going to do three things (depending on how it is viewed).

1) Convince people I am full of crap (which is fine because bodyshop Adrex users think that anyways)

2) Convince people that I suck and cannot finish out with a rotary because I have been open and honest (again fine because I would be scared to look at the work they do.)

3) Convince people that I am more concerned about helping people then I am of what they think about me (which is my take, but maybe I`m wrong)

My goal (regardless of my delivery) has always been to help people on this forum because with out this forum and help I recieved I wouldn`t have such a great job that I love doing. It is the challange of it and the fact that I have such a long way to go before I will be happy with my results.

**Todd@RUPES** · 08-28-2008, 11:53 PM

Originally Posted by Scottwax

Trust me, you can absolutely see holograms on white. :nervous2

After #105

After #105, OC

At that point, I felt it was quite safe to finish with Ultrafina. The sun angle had changed way too much at that point to get any good shots. I could definitely see the difference in between steps while working it though.

Hollogramming and pad abrasion mircomarring are slightly different effects. I have a hard time seeing the ultrafine pad abarasion on white (as well as very faint holograms). Those holograms where bad (which you can absolutely see on white)

**imported_d00t** · 08-28-2008, 11:53 PM

Originally Posted by TH0001

The Lotus picture shows marring, period. I can see it (RIDS, SWIRLS, and IMO pad abrasions) and so can anybody who looks at it. In MY EXPERIENCE, this can be greatly reduced (with in reason, we cannot control how paint is washed after we are done) by taking the time (if it is avialable) with each step and trying not to skip a step if we can.

You are free to disagree with me, but you are getting personal, and this is a learning forum. I am just as open to learning from you as you seem to not learn from me. Please don`t take this thread further off topic.

I agree on both counts.. :nervous:

But can we please stay on topic as there`s tons of very good information in here that I`d like to keep alive..

That being said, what do you guys think a good one stepper would be for the PC? I think we can all agree, now, that 106FF(FA) have filling capabilities, but what would a good all around one step be?

**Scottwax** · 08-28-2008, 11:55 PM

Originally Posted by tdekany

I have a flex and I`d suggest to save your money.

Any reason in particular?

The main thing I don`t like about finishing with a DA buffer is the potential for micromarring but I have some customers who really don`t care enough and often the rotary would mean two steps minimum instead of the 1 step they are willing to pay for. Hey, I`d love to do only full corrections but doing basic details as well keeps me busy every day. Rather have the constant income, amirite? :dance

**Thomas Dekany** · 08-28-2008, 11:57 PM

Originally Posted by mshu7

+2

I went from PC to Cycle to UDM and tried to go to a rotary but just wasn`t comfortable with it. I bought a Flex, used it a few times and then decided to just learn the rotary. Now, I really don`t use my Flex. I sold my Cyclo and my UDM broke. Now, if I`m one-stepping (say Poli-Seal), I grab the PC. If I`m doing correction, I grab the rotary and finish with the PC. I`ll probably end up selling the Flex that now I don`t use it.

The rotary is so much easier to control for me. That is my beef with it.

**Scottwax** · 08-29-2008, 12:00 AM

Originally Posted by TH0001

Hollogramming and pad abrasion mircomarring are slightly different effects. I have a hard time seeing the ultrafine pad abarasion on white (as well as very faint holograms). Those holograms where bad (which you can absolutely see on white)

I put on my sunglasses to inspect light colored paint in the sun, definitely makes a difference, gets rid of the flaring you see around the sun spots.

I am sure you can see the improvement that #105 made compared to what the bodyshop did to the hood. Real shame since they did a great job laying down the paint.

**Thomas Dekany** · 08-29-2008, 12:01 AM

Originally Posted by Scottwax

Any reason in particular?

The main thing I don`t like about finishing with a DA buffer is the potential for micromarring but I have some customers who really don`t care enough and often the rotary would mean two steps minimum instead of the 1 step they are willing to pay for. Hey, I`d love to do only full corrections but doing basic details as well keeps me busy every day. Rather have the constant income, amirite? :dance

There is a trick that body shop guys have used in the past or may even do it nowadays.

Start with the pc and and finish with the rotary. Meaning instead of wiping off the polish after using the pc, continue buffing with the rotary to finish.

PS: I don`t just do paint corrections either. I know what you mean.

**Driven Auto Detail** · 08-29-2008, 12:02 AM

Originally Posted by tdekany

The rotary is so much easier to control for me. That is my beef with it.

I completely agree! That is why after using the Flex a few times, I decided to learn the rotary (again). Now that I am comfortable with a rotary, using the Flex just irritates me, which is why I either go PC or rotary now.

**Todd@RUPES** · 08-29-2008, 12:05 AM

Originally Posted by Scottwax

Any reason in particular?

The main thing I don`t like about finishing with a DA buffer is the potential for micromarring but I have some customers who really don`t care enough and often the rotary would mean two steps minimum instead of the 1 step they are willing to pay for. Hey, I`d love to do only full corrections but doing basic details as well keeps me busy every day. Rather have the constant income, amirite? :dance

Scott do you find it takes longer to do two steps with a rotary vs. one step with a PC?

**Thomas Dekany** · 08-29-2008, 12:05 AM

Originally Posted by d00t

I agree on both counts.. :nervous:

But can we please stay on topic as there`s tons of very good information in here that I`d like to keep alive..

That being said, what do you guys think a good one stepper would be for the PC? I think we can all agree, now, that 106FF(FA) have filling capabilities, but what would a good all around one step be?

To do what?

**imported_DetailDan** · 08-29-2008, 12:06 AM

Originally Posted by d00t

That being said, what do you guys think a good one stepper would be for the PC? I think we can all agree, now, that 106FF(FA) have filling capabilities, but what would a good all around one step be?

I think it depends on the users abilities, type/ condition of paint, machine being used, etc. I definitely wouldnt use anything stronger then SIP/ CSS white or gray. I havent used SIP with gray so Im not sure how it performs. But Id also make sure the customer knows the amount of correction will definitely be pretty limited as well as final gloss. To be honest, I dont do 1 steps. But I also dont do this for a living.

Originally Posted by Scottwax

I put on my sunglasses to inspect light colored paint in the sun, definitely makes a difference, gets rid of the flaring you see around the sun spots.

Thats a great idea. Polarized glasses are great for seeing fish too!

Originally Posted by mshu7

I completely agree! That is why after using the Flex a few times, I decided to learn the rotary (again). Now that I am comfortable with a rotary, using the Flex just irritates me, which is why I either go PC or rotary now.

Dont own a Flex, never will. But Im curious, why do you feel the Flex is harder to use then a rotary?

**Todd@RUPES** · 08-29-2008, 12:08 AM

Originally Posted by tdekany

There is a trick that body shop guys have used in the past or may even do it nowadays.

Start with the pc and and finish with the rotary. Meaning instead of wiping off the polish after using the pc, continue buffing with the rotary to finish.

PS: I don`t just do paint corrections either. I know what you mean.

Wierd. I have started with a rotary and finished with PC (same product) but it would seem backwards to go the other way, no?