Tips on how to cut down on time

[Bobby G]

Ive been finding that as of late details are taking longer and longer. How much do you fuss when someone just wants a one step, not a total correction. I just feel like if I dont do a bigger correction even when doing just a one step the customer is going to be pissed. I realize you have to set the table up front but Im just curious how you all handle situations like that and how you cut down on your time.

You know, I always thought it would be interesting to have a set of 6" by 6" paint panels made up. Paint each one the same color. Next scuff them up like you would see in real-life situations. Keep panel #1 in poor condition. Then, do level one correction on #2, level 2 correction on #3 and perfection on #4. Now you have examples to show and tell with your client. "If you pay for 1-step cleaning and correction, this is what you get." It also let`s you show them how a clearcoat scratch is likely to look after correction.

[Bigpoppa3346]

You know, these days I seriously cannot complete a basic detail in less than 8 hours. Last year I could do the same process that I have now in 3/4ths the time, I dunno what the hell happened.



This includes a wash, clay, machine AIO (either Poli-Seal, ZAIO or HT-69) and LSP. Full interior clean except conditioning and dressing, door jambs, plus wheels/tires/wells/trim/glass etc.



Full correction details (for every 2 or 3 basic details that I have, I will have one full correction) take around 20 hours these days.



I don`t think it really cuts down on time, however, I always do the interior first. It assures I don`t contaminate the polished exterior panels with interior cleaners and APCs and whatnot.

[Scottwax]

I don`t think it really cuts down on time, however, I always do the interior first. It assures I don`t contaminate the polished exterior panels with interior cleaners and APCs and whatnot.

I do the same for the same reason.



I can knock out a basic detail in 4-5 hours-full interior detail, one polishing step/clay horizontal surfaces and wax. Been doing it so long I guess I just have the process down so well it is automatic. Heavy correction though, it takes as long as it takes.



Funny thing is, if I check the time before I start a detail, I know what time it is (usually within 5 minutes) by what point I am at in the detail. Once you get down the process that works best for you, stick with it and your details will go faster without compromising quality.

[-Longhorn-]

I did a car this past weekend a Toyota Corola (1999) and it was a simple wash and wax job and I took the time to polish out head lights and clayed the hood and trunk for her. She was thrilled and didn`t know what to say. She said she would be bringing it back for future work and correction.



Going the extra mile is truely a good thing and thrills the customer, and when they are happy they come back and spend more money!

I guess because my details are higher buck people expect more even if they dont agree to it. Thats what Ive come to notice as of late anyways.

[-Longhorn-]

You know, I always thought it would be interesting to have a set of 6" by 6" paint panels made up. Paint each one the same color. Next scuff them up like you would see in real-life situations. Keep panel #1 in poor condition. Then, do level one correction on #2, level 2 correction on #3 and perfection on #4. Now you have examples to show and tell with your client. "If you pay for 1-step cleaning and correction, this is what you get." It also let`s you show them how a clearcoat scratch is likely to look after correction.

Oh wow, thats a hell of an idea. Quite brilliant actually.

[-Longhorn-]

I do the same for the same reason.



I can knock out a basic detail in 4-5 hours-full interior detail, one polishing step/clay horizontal surfaces and wax. Been doing it so long I guess I just have the process down so well it is automatic. Heavy correction though, it takes as long as it takes.



Funny thing is, if I check the time before I start a detail, I know what time it is (usually within 5 minutes) by what point I am at in the detail. Once you get down the process that works best for you, stick with it and your details will go faster without compromising quality.

Scott when you do a one step typically what pad and product do you use? I know it always varies but give me a jist of it and how long do you polish it out? One thing I have been finding is that when doing a 1 step I feel compelled to polish out some spots several times to get it as best I can, maybe I need to stop that. I guess it’s just that innate fear of rejection or getting into it with a customer about not meeting their expectations but then that requires me to more properly set the table.

[Junebug]

We are a different breed from 95% of the car owners - our standards may even seem insane to most of them. You have to learn how to give them what they expect, with a little bit more and honestly - I`m still learning that LOL

[-Longhorn-]

We are a different breed from 95% of the car owners - our standards may even seem insane to most of them. You have to learn how to give them what they expect, with a little bit more and honestly - I`m still learning that LOL

Yeah I need to start realizing that. What they think is an "A" job I usually think is a "C" job.

[Scottwax]

Scott when you do a one step typically what pad and product do you use? I know it always varies but give me a jist of it and how long do you polish it out? One thing I have been finding is that when doing a 1 step I feel compelled to polish out some spots several times to get it as best I can, maybe I need to stop that. I guess it’s just that innate fear of rejection or getting into it with a customer about not meeting their expectations but then that requires me to more properly set the table.

If it is a true one step, I use Optimum Poli-Seal with an orange cutting pad (DA buffer) on harder paint, switch to a yellow Meguiars polishing pad on softer paints. Single polishing step followed by wax, either 3M Ultrafina and the blue UF pad via rotary or Optimum Compound and a yellow Meguiars polishing pad with a DA buffer.



Doesn`t get them perfect but you definitely get a significant improvement.

[-Longhorn-]

If it is a true one step, I use Optimum Poli-Seal with an orange cutting pad (DA buffer) on harder paint, switch to a yellow Meguiars polishing pad on softer paints. Single polishing step followed by wax, either 3M Ultrafina and the blue UF pad via rotary or Optimum Compound and a yellow Meguiars polishing pad with a DA buffer.



Doesn`t get them perfect but you definitely get a significant improvement.

Im a rotary only person unless its applying a sealant as I dont have the time or patience to wait on a PC or UDM.

[Scottwax]

Im a rotary only person unless its applying a sealant as I dont have the time or patience to wait on a PC or UDM.

You can`t always one step with a rotary and finish out hologram free though, might as well use a more aggressive polish/pad combo and a DA buffer, get similar results vs rotary and something like Ultrafina and be able to go straight to wax. Ultrafina gets good results as a single polishing step on softer paints but on hard paint you really need more cut.



If I am doing two polishing steps, I prefer to use the rotary.

[Twinscroll]

You know, I always thought it would be interesting to have a set of 6" by 6" paint panels made up. Paint each one the same color. Next scuff them up like you would see in real-life situations. Keep panel #1 in poor condition. Then, do level one correction on #2, level 2 correction on #3 and perfection on #4. Now you have examples to show and tell with your client. "If you pay for 1-step cleaning and correction, this is what you get." It also let`s you show them how a clearcoat scratch is likely to look after correction.

Wow, great idea and a no brainer now that you`ve said it ...like duh a picture is worth a 1000 words to use an cliche saying but so true. Just might have to do that.