1987 Porsche 928 S

**bdaly84** · 02-07-2008, 11:53 AM

I am getting ready to perform a full exterior job on a new customer with a 1987 Porsche 928S with the original single stage paint on it. This will be my first 20year original paint Porsche. He wants as close to 100% correction as possible. I have seen alot of guys use the Megs 80 series stuff on the single stage porsche paints. I typically use Menzerna & OPT as my go to polishes/compounds. The porsche will more than likely need a compound. I dont currently have any of the Megs products.

What has most used on these older paints, again acheiving high results? Just trying to get an idea. Thanks.

**imported_Jakerooni** · 02-07-2008, 01:15 PM

If you don`t have the products or the knowledge of what product you should go buy already and this customer is expecting perfection or the closest thing possible to it I would seriously reconsider doing this detail. If it`s oxidized (as I suspect) and you already think it`ll need a compound do you have a rotary and the knowledge of how to use it properly on Single stage paint? The proper pads?

I know there`s a few guys on here that will agree with me (and a bunch that won`t) but product choice is really a personal choice and not a critical choice when detailing. It`s all about your skill level and your techniques. I really wouldn`t be to concerned with what type of compound you have to use. As long as you have something with the proper cutting abilites you`ll be ok as long as you have all the proper equipment to tackle such a job. I have a bad feeling your not going to be able to give this "perfectionist" exactly what he`s after. Of course we have the internets here and if you post up lots of pics a ton of good people on here should be able to guide you step by step. But proceed with alot of caution on this piticuler job..... Older porsche`s are kind of hard to replace

**Accumulator** · 02-07-2008, 01:49 PM

bdaly84- I won`t go quite as far as Jakerooni, but I will say to be very careful around crown lines and edges. Don`t get aggressive on the top surfaces of the hatch (by the backlight) or the front fenders where there`s an edge around the headlight scoops. Other than that mine always had pretty thick paint...but then you don`t know what *you* are dealing with on this one unless you ETG it (which would be a good idea).

Better have a frank discussion with the owner about how close to "100% correction" he really wants to go...it`s gonna get polished again some day and it`d be a shame to have to get it reshot (don`t think he`d find a shop with ss these days, and to redo one of those with b/c would just be a cryin` shame).

I would absolutely *NOT* go more aggressive than Meg`s #2 and I`d sure try to do the correction with #83 instead. Then finish out with either #80 or #82 and pick a "pure polish" (if you use one) and a Meg`s LSP so everything will be compatible.

No reason why you couldn`t use your other products, but those Meg`s Trade Secret Oils really do work wonders on ss.

Hmm...I *do* wonder about trying products you`re not familiar with on this particular car :nervous2: but then I`m a fanatic about not messing up original paint cars. Maybe you`d better try to get by with just the #80 :think:

FWIW the paint on my SS one (Guards Red) wasn`t all that hard...you could just use a milder product a few times instead of using something really aggressive. I did mine by *hand* as this was back before I got the Cyclo, just took a lot of time and effort.

**AP2TUDE** · 02-08-2008, 11:26 AM

I did a SS red 87 560SL for one of my clients a few weeks ago. It was the first Mercedez he ever bought, so he holds onto it for sentimental reasons.

There are a couple of ways to tackle everything. First do some paint thickness readings, that will help you decide on the best course of action. Second, focus on masking. Heavily oxidized SS paint likes to throw stuff everywhere, no matter what you use, so be prepared. Accurately masking everything will save you a ton of time in the long run, and make your job look that much cleaner.

Depending on your materials, there are two ways to remove the oxidation easily, with a rotary or a DA. Now before people mock the DA in this application, it does have some solid advantages over the rotary. Although it will make the process much slower, the DA is much more resistant to transferring caked polishing material and removed oxidation to the paint of the car. This is a big plus. If you have thin paint, this may be the easiest way to remove the oxidation without doing any serious correction. Your other option would be to just use the wool pad, making sure to spur it as often as possible. This will keep the pad surface clean and it should cut through the oxidation easily with something like Megs #83.

After you take off the oxidation, move onto something like #82 or Speed Glaze, either of these should have sufficient cut to remove any defections with a polishing pad on a rotary. Try the Megs Yellow polishing pad first, if that isn`t enough cut move onto an LC Orange. Finish with Megs White and #82 and you should have a really solid finish.

I will post up some pics of the SS job that I did a few weeks ago for reference. I used #83 with a wool pad for oxidation removal and finished with #82. LSP was Souveran.

**Accumulator** · 02-08-2008, 12:31 PM

AP2TUDE- Good point about using the DA. I never found a rotary necessary on ss as usually just cuts *so* easily (though it might`ve made a difference on some *white* ss I just couldn`t get right).

**Bbasso** · 02-09-2008, 02:51 AM

Just my .03 on this...

If the owner is a perfectionist, then I doubt the car needs a lot of work.

But if he`s looking to get perfect results from a 20 year old car, maybe he should have his head cleaned not his car.

**Scottwax** · 02-09-2008, 08:23 PM

Definitely invest in some Meguiars polishes, at least #83 and #80. I haven`t found anything better at removing oxidation from single stage. Clearkote`s Vanilla Moose is a nice finishing glaze on single stage.

**DaGonz** · 02-10-2008, 09:56 AM

I will echo Scottwax`s comments. I did a 1986 Porsche 944 with original paint and used the Meguiar`s #83/80 and finished with #21 synthetic sealant, topped with Collinite insulator wax and it came out great!

**Stephenwz968** · 02-10-2008, 10:05 AM

Here`s how my SS 968 came out with Meg`s 83 on a rotary and 80 D/A topped with 21.

**bdaly84** · 02-12-2008, 10:18 PM

Well I tackled this job on Sat, it came out very well. 100% was not acheived...about 85%, which I expressed to the owner before I started the job. He was very impressed with the finished product. The car had some rust spots, bare metal areas, and peeling areas. Finished process was:

ONR

Sonus green clay w/ Pinn Clay lube

SIP w/ Orange Cyclo pad

OP w/ Green cyclo pad

Zymol Carbon

I would love to post the pics...not sure how to. The car was a bluesih gray color with lowered suspension, exhaust, and boxster wheels. Thanks for all the advise. My next purchase will be Megs polishes.

**Accumulator** · 02-13-2008, 01:51 PM

Originally Posted by bdaly84

Well I tackled this job on Sat, it came out very well. 100% was not acheived...about 85%, which I expressed to the owner before I started the job. He was very impressed with the finished product..

Sounds like you did a good job of deciding how far to take the correction :xyxthumbs

Heh heh, I can guess where a few of the rust spots were...hope he gets those looked at.