Decontamination system - Question about step 3

Well if the weather EVER stops raining here I`m going to prep 4 cars for the winter.



On a couple of them I want to use my FinishKare 3 step decontamination system.



I have a question about step 3 - the final wash and neutralizer.



Since the car is squeeky clean after step 2, do I need to hand wash the car with step 3? OR...can I simply use my foam gun and drape the whole car in a sudsy bath allowing it to ooze over the whole surface and into the nooks and crannies to neutralize the acid from step 2?



Basically I want to see if I can eliminate having to wash the car by hand after already washing it with steps 1 and 2 by hand. Plus it`ll be less potential marring. I don`t want to spend hours on this process!



Also, do I have to use the car wash soap supplied? Or can I use my Gold Class which is already premixed for my gun?



Thanks! :xyxthumbs

I used FK DECON kit this week for the first time. I followed the instructions to the letter and my results were ok.

They seem to say this is as good as claying but it didn`t leave my paint as smooth as claying does.

I would use their soap for step three in the process. I spilled some of the step 2 liquid, which really smells like rotten eggs mixed with stale gasoline, on my garage concrete floor.

It started foaming yellow bubbles.

This made me watch the amount of time I left this stuff on my paint and made sure I rinsed well and used lots and lots of the step 3 soap.



I not sure I will use this product again. Well maybe on a friend car.

I would stick with the systems` own final wash for elimination of any potential compatibility issues. Given Gears` report, I wonder if the ABC system is "more pleasant".

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gears

I spilled some of the step 2 liquid, which really smells like rotten eggs mixed with stale gasoline, on my garage concrete floor.

It started foaming yellow bubbles.

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Cool! ;)



Any tips you can provide? I heard that you can clay during step 2 or was it step 1? Can`t remember.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Spilchy

I heard that you can clay during step 2 or was it step 1? Can`t remember.

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Noting that I`ve only used the AutoInt ABC, *not* the FK system- I`ve had good results claying while the acidic step is dwelling. It does compromise the clay rather quickly though.



I`d wonder if the step 3 spraying-only method would be as effective as using a little regular pressure-style contact....I`d wash normally. Since it`ll be clean from the previous steps (even if you clay, or at least it was for me) I don`t think marring should be an issue. Just use something soft and don`t press too hard. Or wash with the foamgun and a mitt, that`s what I`d do.



Since you already have their step 3 I`d probably just use that. But any shampoo that`s ph neutral or slightly alkaline should neutralize the acid just fine. And I can see advantages to using something with greater lubricity (not that I know anything about the lubricity of the FK stuff).

The FK1 system did not impress me at all. The 1 and 2 smell terrible, and they didn`t seem to do anything to my paint`s contamination. I even used step 2 THREE TIMES, and it didn`t do anything. This was on my Protege when I first got it, and yes it was definitely the most contaminated paint I`ve ever dealt with. But I expected much more out of the decon process. I still had to clay afterwards, and it still took me at least another 2 hours to clay it. Even some obvious rust blooms were hardly affected at all by the decon process.

I`ll stick with claying, and I won`t have to worry about very hazardous chemicals like the decontamination liquids.



The claying step was definitely easier after using the decon...I`ll give it that. Otherwise, I was quite disappointed.

The FK step 3 wash didn`t seem like anything special. I perfer Megs Gold Class for amount of suds and lubricity, to steal Accumulators term. They say that it has the correct Ph balance so given that fact and the foaming yellow floor, I decided to use the FK wash.

If anyone here has used both systems, would you say ABC is the better way to go? It seems to me that if a step in one system is ineffective/takes more time and passes to do the job right, the other system that gets the job done the first time is the one to go with.

I have used part of FK and all of the AutoInt. The FK smelled really bad. I used it on a car that didn`t have much problems and didn`t use step 2, so i can`t really say how well it works.



The AutoInt ABC system i have used a few times for brade dust rust spots, seems that Honda`s are prone to this, as 3 out of 4 were newer Honda`s. I say brake dust because i could follow it from the front wheels all the way to the back bumber. I did work for this but involved max dwell time or reapplication or fairly heavy rubbing. I was about to try claying.



I can say this about both, they both left the finish feel clean not squeaky clean, like a paint cleaner, but "sticky clean". They both left the cars glowing.



I also noticed that they didn`t touch tree sap or tar.



One last thing on the FK car, i applied 2180 after and the car glowed but i have washed it a few times since and i almost need a chisel to remove bugs.

Just as a note, the FK system`s first step is 60-70% kerosene, that`s why it smells so bad.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gbackus

Just as a note, the FK system`s first step is 60-70% kerosene, that`s why it smells so bad.

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Where do you get the 60-70% figure. I dont see it on the bottle or in the MSDS. What I did see is that it is 90% water soluble which does not sound like 70% Kerosene.



We have had great results with the FK system. For stuborn cases multiple applications of step 2 are required. However its best to keep the surface wet without drenching it. As you work step 2 it will start to thicken up which is a good.