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There are a number of areas on my car where there is some severe orange peal. Maily on the front bumper, side skirts, quater panel areas.
What is the process for wet sanding? Will you be able to tell what was wet sanded and what wasn`t? Does wet sanding work on clear coated cars? Any other information on the personal experince is much appreciated.
I do some wet sanding occasionally and will tell you up front that I`m not an expert on the subject. I know guys in the body shop business who don`t/won`t wet sand due to the liability attached to that process.Quote:
Originally posted by Focusedonsound
There are a number of areas on my car where there is some severe orange peal. Maily on the front bumper, side skirts, quater panel areas.
What is the process for wet sanding? Will you be able to tell what was wet sanded and what wasn`t? Does wet sanding work on clear coated cars? Any other information on the personal experince is much appreciated.
Wet sanding does work on clear coated cars and it`s always smart to start out "light", and by all means use a block for your paper. If you do hold the paper in your fingers the pressure will be uneven. If I was you I`d get a wet sanding block, and some 2000 and 1500 grit paper for starters. Make sure it`s good paper because I`ve found that the cheaper ones can often have a variance of grits on the same sheet. Soaking the paper that you plan on using for 30 minutes is a good idea, and obviously keeping the sanded area moist is imperative. Clear coats can be easily damaged so you have to be careful.
As for wet sanding painted bumpers and plastic moldings, I wouldn`t do that. The paint process is different on those, and I just won`t go there. I`ve had alot of trouble with painted bumpers in the past and treat them with kid gloves now.
I pray alot when I wet sand, and so far so good. Good Luck :)
I`ve done both wet and dry sanding....I prefer dry so i can see what i`m doing...those areas you mention can be done but I would bring it to a pro who also is a pro with a rotary...one wrong move as Coastal Eddie pointed out about those bumpers and you could be looking at paint work. It`s not a hard thing to do but it`s easier to practice on something that doesn`t matter:dunno my 2cents:)
I`m curious if you would dry sand with 1500 grit? 2000 seems like the safest to me.Quote:
Originally posted by Poorboy
I`ve done both wet and dry sanding....I prefer dry so i can see what i`m doing...those areas you mention can be done but I would bring it to a pro who also is a pro with a rotary...one wrong move as Coastal Eddie pointed out about those bumpers and you could be looking at paint work. It`s not a hard thing to do but it`s easier to practice on something that doesn`t matter:dunno my 2cents:)
I haven`t used them yet but there are 3-M finish sanding papers out that are designed to be used dry instead of wet and they are supposed to leave a finish that is easier to buff out. Many body shops use them. I like the safety of the water lubricating the paint, especially when working on a freshly painted car. I guess I am just old school. I second the idea of using a backing pad. Meguiars makes a good one that can be found at many body shop supply stores or online. If you don`t use a pad, fold the paper over 3 or 4 times to help even out the pressure. I have seen wet sanding done that you can see the waves from the persons fingers. One more thing ... Light pressure is key ... let the paper do the work
Thx for the tip on that paper.Quote:
Originally posted by kimwallace
I haven`t used them yet but there are 3-M finish sanding papers out that are designed to be used dry instead of wet and they are supposed to leave a finish that is easier to buff out. Many body shops use them. I like the safety of the water lubricating the paint, especially when working on a freshly painted car. I guess I am just old school. I second the idea of using a backing pad. Meguiars makes a good one that can be found at many body shop supply stores or online. If you don`t use a pad, fold the paper over 3 or 4 times to help even out the pressure. I have seen wet sanding done that you can see the waves from the persons fingers. One more thing ... Light pressure is key ... let the paper do the work
I`m real interested in dry sanding over wet for a few reasons. You can probably see the "levels" you`re working on better, it`s less of a mess, and it always seems like the area I`m working on unintentionally expands when I wet sand. I don`t think that would happen if dry sanding.
I do highly recommend a sanding block, but I don`t use one now.
I will also tell you that I use Spray N Wipe when I wet sand. Works like a dream.
If you are going to wet-sand, I would like to step in and recommend Norton Magnum Black Ice Waterproof sandpaper. Only sandpaper I have found made especially for wet sanding and I find it much easier to work with than the regular sandpaper. Can be found locally at some auto body shops, try Finishmasters.
Follow with a good compound + polish + wax/sealant, you should be good to go.
Link with wetsanding info:
http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/?page=color_sanding