89 Jeep with some dead paint

My father in law has a 89 red jeep with some seriously dead looking paint, and wants me to get it looking new again. I know that this paint is single stage, and I`m not sure what to do with it. Can I use DACP with the PC and a polishing pad then follow up with #9 and a sealant? Or maybe MMPC to start? Any suggestions will be much appreciated. Oh yeah, and that 03 Jag Im gonna work on got moved to Thurs cuz of rain down here in the dirty south. Is there a time that should pass before you seal a new cars paint? I read something about waiting 90 days before doing so, though this may be false. Thanks!

by hand or pc i would use

#1 clay
#2 cleaner(pref. medium abrasive)
#3 polish
#4 sealer

I second the clay - it`s a must in reviving old paint.

As for the waiting time on new paint - I`ve read anywhere from 30-90 days. If it were me, I ask the body shop that applied the paint and follow their advice.

Thanks for the advice, I plan on claying after washing, and then using the mmpc, but my biggest concern was because of the single stage paint. Is it more dangerous to work on with the PC? And should I use #9 after the mmpc, or somthing more potent like DACP? And the paint on the jag is factory, I didnt realize they were talking about repaints, thanks!

Why do you want to use a polishing pad if the paint is looking dead? Do you have a cutting pad? That would work much faster to get the paint "revived." The polishing pad may be better if you`re afraid of being too aggressive, or not sure of how much paint is left, but I think you`d be happier with a cutting pad a DACP then moving to a polishing pad.

Also, as I think by your last post you`ve already figured out, factory paint is pretty much cured when the car hits the lot, as it`s baked dry. The 30-90 day wait is mostly for repaints.

Just my thoughts.:beer

ABC

I love ot work on single stage paint its how I cut my teeth to detailing. I did a late 80`s single stage painted trooper (red). Afer the wash I did use clay but I`m not sure that this is nessary, since you are going to want to use a heavy cut to get threw the top layer (dead paint) I used 3M lite cut compound, with a rotary and a cutting pad. If you have a PC then use a cutting pad you want to take off the top layer. The DCAP should do well for this is my guess, however I`m not great with the Megs products.
After cutting use a good polish to start to build back the luster in the paint. If you have sealant you can lay that down now by hand then finish up with a good wax
I have attached the before and after pics of the hood for a reference!

Sorry I still can`t attach two pics in a single post!

Dave - with a clear coat would you think a clay is needed when you are doing a heavy polish or not? I see your point about not needing clay on a single stage but does the same apply to clear coats? :dunno

I frimly think that clay is necessary on clear coated cars, even the new cars!!. I did use clay on the trooper pictured but that`s because it had a boat load of crap on it from sitting under trees 24/7. What I remembered was the clay took a lot more lube to move across the paint. The clay then turn red and I`m again not sure that it was necessary.

i would definetly say the best bet would to go with the rotory buffer also...

use heavy cut pad first

followed by a mid cut

then a polishing pad