film after buffing

using a rotary buffer and still getting a film would be caused by what?

also do you allow the polish to haze when appling or just take it off as you are applying it?

Different products break down different ways. I use a polish that I can actually work into the paint with my rotary and make it vanish. I find these to be the best because of the "shine" that they bring out. As far as hazing, if you work the polish in you should not have a haze problem. You should just have to wipe a clean mf over the panel. And as for the film, do you prep your pads and just go with product on a dry pad?

I think (not sure what polish you are using) but it should be worked in to powder stage (where the product starts to powder and come off) - if you are getting a haze then maybe letting it set to dry then remove with mf?

One of the exceptions being Meg`s #82 SFP and do not buff this product till dry because it has a tendency to introduce new swirls into the paint if you do. I don`t understand either what you mean by leaving a film. Also, what polish are you using?

just using a dry pad and applying to pad, not sure how to prep the pad. Please fill me in on what this means... thanks a bunch

using detail king`s sample package...

first step was using a yarn wool pad with a heavy compund..

second step was using a sealer with a light foam pad

and then wax with a lambs wool

please correct me if this is wrong

** the big questions that I had was

#1 do you use the edge of the pad at all times or do you keep it flat?

#2 do you use a lot of wax, sealer, what ever you are using?

#3 how to prep a pad

#4 do you buff the chemical into the paint till u cant see it anymore or do you buff it let it haze then buff it off?

I have never used Detail king`s products ... but some of this applies to most products.
1. Keep the pad as flat as possible ... Go to Meguiars.com and they have some video/slide shows that might help ... if not order their video.
2. I do not apply wax or sealer with a rotary buffer and no you should not need to use a lot of product
3. I start out by applying the product to the pad in the shape of an X ... then pick up the product right off the paint finish from there
4. Once again some products you buff til it is almost gone ... some til it is almost dry ... and some til it turns clear and still wet.
I am guessing here that in the process of buffing with a heavy compound, you dulled the paint finish, and that is what you are refering to as "film"

I never use a wool pad on a car unless I am removing scratches or wet sanding marks.
The next step should have been a polishing step or maybe even two steps using a less abrasive
polish ...this is what will restore the shine to your paint.
After that I would apply a sealant or wax by hand or PC ... and wipe off with a MF by hand.
Also after each polishing step all of the material needs to be removed from the paint prior to moving on to the next polish.
I would also strongly recommend that you contact Detailking about the proper use of their products or see if they can send you more detailed instructions.
It sounds like you got off on the wrong foot and hopefully you can restore your finish to an awesome shine. Good Luck.

thanks so much kim, its kind hearted people like you that take the time to explain to newbies instead of brushing them off..

thanks

By prepping the pad I mean spray a couple of mists of your "Quick Detail" on the pad. It gives the pad a little freedom to glide over the surface.

no i wasnt doing that thanks for the great tip

Also... some products with alot of solvents will leave a film, especially if working in sun or getting real hot by working area to long...