Clay before taking to the pros

After explining I was going to wash and clay my car myself and then take it to the detailers, rhillstr asked

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Wash and clay then take it to someone? Why not just polish it and seal it since you`re already half way there and save yourself a bundle? I`m sure you`ll do a better job on the details anyways....

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My problem is that my car is on gritty enough shape that I suspect it needs a machine buffer to go after it. And I don`t own one. Is that daft?

As a matter of fact, yesterday I bought my first bottle of Maguires 00, Mothers clay bar, and QD, and terry drying towels and went after my 95 Honda. I worked up a good sweat washing her and darn if my drying towels still weren`t pulling off dirt. I suppose that it will take a number of washes before everything is really clean?

The clay was rather fun. I only got as far as my hood before I had to go in, but boy was it pulling some brown gook off my charcoal paint.

The terry towels left a coat of lint over everything. I am hoping that with a few washes they will settle down. Or should I give up now and go for one of those Absorber towels?

-Mel

Trust me, your car is not in such horrible shape that you need a machine. Machines are only needed to really address paint problems/defects, and to generally keep your arm from wanting to fall off.

Here is what I would recommend.

1. Wash then Clay again, and do the entire car this time not just the hood
2. PB`s PwC or Klasse AIO
3. EX, UPP, or your favorite wax.

Just incase, I will give the full version of the acronyms. PB`s=Poorboys, PwC= PB`s Polish w/Carnauba, AIO = All In One, EX= PB`s Sealant w/Carnauba, UPP = 4 Star`s Ultimate Paint Protection.

I would also sudgest switching clay manufacturers. Clay Magic is the ole` time fave, but PB`s clay has gotten some good reviews as well.

This is not a FULL fix for your car. However, the results should be very noticeable. At the very least, you will have a nice set of supplies around to continue to upkeep your car.

Mel,

I have worked on cars of all stages and yours cannot be so bad that it requires a orbital, maybe a rotary to do some swril removing since its black. Stil as TASS has pointed out the Poorboys line is one that you could do by hand and get great results. The following is the steps that I take on cars in your shape based on what you have wrote.

Wash and dry
Clay with QD spray.
Polish with Poorboys Polish w carnuba
Swril remover ( here is when you need to see how bad the swrils are, Poorboys has 3 levels I suspect that you may need SSR3)
I like to glaze the car next for a wetter look and I use 3M hand glaze.
Finishing up Poorboys EX is a great product used it on my light color Jeep yesterday and the finish is sparkling.

Now after all this if you feel that your cars needs the help of a true detailer. I`d ask a few questions so that you know you are getting the right shop.

Ask what they use for products
Ask to see a car that they are working on
Look at the type of equirment they are using
You wantr to make sure that they are not just going ot put some cheap filler wax so your car will look about the same after a few washes down the road.
OK I`ll get off the soap box now:D

Thanks for the tips -- especially with regard to what to ask detailers before choosing one.

I am going to wash and clay the rest of the car today, even though my right arm is sore. Can you say wimp? :D And I know everyone here is PB crazy and I am being swayed to order some items.

Of course, I have more questions!

It seems you both recommend using swirl removal/cleaner products *after* the polish. I`ve lurked on BMW care boards and everyone there seems to do the reverse: swirl remover/cleaner then polish (and then glaze). Is it simply personal preference?

Second, I was leaning toward Meguiars Dual Action Cleaner Polish. Does that sound like it mgiht get the job done.? It seemed like it might be a bit more heavy duty for removing my years of oxidation.

-Mel

Mel

I`ve always polished then SMR but you can do it the other way and get the same results ( creature of habit)
As for the Megs product good stuff but I will let someone else answer that question.

IT really does depend on the polish. Megs #9 is a light polish (very low on Megs cut scale), depending on what you are using before and after, you need to adjust your setup. I wondered myself when Beemerboy recommended the #9 after the PwC, I even addressed a PM to him regarding it.

In my own preference, I would use #9 BEFORE PwC, mainly due to the better filling properties of PwC.

For your own case, if you are having problems with getting tired from washing and claying, I would not recommend DACP. DACP is designed for use by a machine, its possible to use it with a PC, but a rotary is recommended (as always). DACP will take a lot of effort to use by hand, it may be more than you want to gamble with right now.

Also, we are not all PB crazy, it jsut happens to be a very good line of products. Before PB, we had the same discussions and enthusiasm with Platinum, its just whats hot at the moment. PB is getting special attention due to one product, S&W.

so are you dealing with oxidation or swirls? Are they deep swirls, or light swirls?

If you are taking off alot of junk when you clay, you might need to use a paint cleaner/swirl remover before the clay, although most people will clay first. The #9 isn`t going to do much though if this is the case especially by hand. I would guess something like PB SSR 2 or DACP is the answer. You can get the DACP locally at a paint supply shop.

You might want to just work your hood and see if you can get the results you are looking for, if not get a reputable detailer with a rotary.

Clay doesnt remove swirls or Oxidation but rather contaminents in the paint if you have swirls or Oxidation you need an Abrassive compound. If your clay is gettin gummed up alot with peaces of paint etc then you have a paint or clearcoat problem.